The Restore Begins

   / The Restore Begins
  • Thread Starter
#41  
Try putting a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF on the nut.

Thanks I'll give that a try. Its the bolt that's stuck to the axle rusted on.
 
   / The Restore Begins #42  
Thanks I'll give that a try. Its the bolt that's stuck to the axle rusted on.
Obviously the bolts are frozen due to rust. Since you still have tires on it. My suggestion to move your blocks so you will have more room to bang on the bolts. Obviously this method isn't working you ya. Next I would try a propane torch on the bolt. Heat it up real good, then start tapping. I had the same problem if you read my thread.
 
   / The Restore Begins
  • Thread Starter
#43  
Obviously the bolts are frozen due to rust. Since you still have tires on it. My suggestion to move your blocks so you will have more room to bang on the bolts. Obviously this method isn't working you ya. Next I would try a propane torch on the bolt. Heat it up real good, then start tapping. I had the same problem if you read my thread.

Thanks Kid, I use your thread as a reference manual.
 
   / The Restore Begins #44  
I'd suggest torching the bolt head off so you can get the fender out of the way, then grind the bolt flush with the axle and use a round drift to punch it out the bottom. You may have to cut the center out of the bolt to get both sections to move, then punch them out separately. If the bolt head is still intact I'd pull the wheel off and use a big breaker bar to either spin the bolt or pop the head off.

Either way, once the fender is gone life is much simpler.
 
   / The Restore Begins #45  
I had to cut one of the bolts in two on mine.. It was a b!%ch. i actually thought it was welded in place because the bolt didn't look correct. I've got picture where I did that. I didn't cut the head of but cut the bolt in two between the upper and lower flat areas. Once I wasn't having to push thru two holes, each end came out after applying heat and heavy use of a hand sledge.
 
   / The Restore Begins
  • Thread Starter
#46  
These are pictures taken from my Refurbish thread. The bolts are carriage bolts. The slots are on the radiator. Wedge something between the radiator front end mount to jam the bolt so it stays in the slot. Take only the left one off (standing in front of tractor). I have another picture from that thread that shows why you only need to remove one.

Good tip and it worked. The crowd went wild :cool2: when I lifted the Rad off the Frame. Now do I recore or replace?
Now about those Fenders.....:eek:
 
   / The Restore Begins #47  
That depends on it's condition both outside and inside. If it's been beat up pretty bad then look to see how much to recore it. If the inside has a lot of blockage in the tubes, that will need cleaned out by a rad shop. Like I said depends if both inside and outside are in bad shape. Your better off getting that one fixed because you know it fits right. I can't say that about an aftermarket one. If your slots on the bottom are in good shape then have that one cleaned up inside and out.
 
   / The Restore Begins
  • Thread Starter
#48  
Well its nice outside again and I now have power to Tractor House. So today I'm back to those Fender bolts again. Have them soaking with Kroil and the beating continues.:eek:
 
   / The Restore Begins
  • Thread Starter
#50  
Took Radiator for a leak test and it is junk. Must get Recored at 450.00$ OUCH!
 

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