The surprising truth about motor oils

[Z71]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">(
The algorithm was developed over the course of many years by several lubrication experts at GM Fuels and Lubes, spearheaded by Doctor Shirley Schwartz who holds the patents (with GM) for the algorithm and the oil life monitor. There were fleets of cars operated under all conditions that deteriorate the oil life for any and every reason and , thru oil sampling and detailed analysis of the oil condition, the algorithm was developed, fine tuned and validated to be the most accurate way invented yet to recommend an oil change interval by. As just one example, I have seen cars driven side-by-side on trips, one towing a trailer and one not, for instance, to prove the effectiveness of the oil life monitor in deteriorating the oil at a faster rate just because of the higher load, higher average RPM, higher temps, etc...and it works flawlessly.

The oil life monitor is so effective because: it is customized for that specific vehicle/engine, it takes everything into account that deteriorates the oil, it is ALWAYS working so as to take into account THAT INDIVIDUALS driving schedule, and it tailors the oil change to that schedule and predicts, on an ongoing basis, the oil life remaining so that that specific individual can plan an oil change accordingly. No other system can do this that effectively.
)</font>

 

[HGM]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I think there is a slight misunderstanding. You mentioned about 30,000 mi between oil changes. The only time I ever see anything anywhere about 30,000+ mile changes is when reading about that "A*****" oil name. (no wars here please /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif). When I mention 30,000+ mi a year is what I drive NOT when I nor GM recommends an oil change (at least for Dino oil, I have not seen or looked for information when a vehicle is equipped with synthetic oil from the factory.) The furthest distance that I have seen ever listed for Dino oil is 15,000 mi with a disclaimer "under the correct conditions" and from that I saw something that basically said nonstop highway driving with the engine oil in the correct temp operating range. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

Kurt )</font>

Kurt,
Yes I think your right there, I was refering to Mike's(Z71) reply about Amsoil.. I'll leave that alone too, thats not why I'm here.... Oil will get contaminated, change is needed..

Mike,
Your posts are interesting reading.. I didnt see where the lady that contributed the info works... Like I said, interesting but I'm not going to buy into it(maybe I'm hard headded, I can live with that) /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif.. Hope it works because it can certainly open a can of worms when getting repairs done..

 

[CT_Tree_Guy]

I've decided to sell everything I own that has an engine, and buy a horse.





Or maybe a mule. Hey, which make better draft animals - horses, or mules?

If you prefer horses, then what breeds, and why?

And how about feed? Should I use a legume hay, such as alfalfa or clover, or a grass hay? Any suggestions?

I realize that legumes tend to be higher in protein, energy, calcium and vitamin A than grass hays, and that this concentrated source of energy and protein may be an advantage when fed as part of the ration for young, growing horses, and lactating mares.

However, not all horses need the rich levels of nutrients present in premium alfalfa. I think that by buying a lower quality hay (such as an early cutting or one harvested in a late stage of plant maturity), or by selecting an alfalfa grass mix hay, I might be able get alfalfa's dietary benefits without supplying excess nutrients that may predispose young horses to problems such as developmental bone disease and epiphysitis, but I'm just not sure. Ideas anyone?

Also, when feeding alfalfa, one needs to include a palatable, high phosphorous mineral supplement as part of the ration in order to bring the calcium/ phosphorous ratio into a better balance for the horse. This is especially important when feeding young, growing horses. High phosphorous supplements are commercially available just for this reason. But is the added cost of the mineral supplements worth it in the long run? Maybe I should just go with grass hay instead?

Plus, due to alfalfa's high mineral content, my horse will likely drink more water when being fed this legume. In turn, its stall will be wetter and require more care to keep it clean, dry and ammonia-free!!! What should I do???? I am so confused!





Or should I just get a tractor instead?

And if so, what kind of oil do you guys think I should use in it?

Thanks, John

 

[KAB]

Get one that runs on biofuel and requires no oil.








Wait... That would be a horse or mule /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Just get a pokadot tractor and put a different oil in it everyday, that way everbody would be happy at least once /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif.

Kurt

 

[HGM]

John,

I'm currently biting my tongue close to the bleeding point right now to keep from suggesting a particular brand who may offer hay that is superior to all others............ /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif


Anyhow, maybe that would be a good suggestion for me as well. I have absoloutly no knowledge of hay or horses. This would allow me to listen to any discussion without comment. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

So I'll be following this to see any recomendations.... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[kenmac]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( John,

I'm currently biting my tongue close to the bleeding point right now to keep from suggesting a particular brand who may offer hay that is superior to all others............ /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif <font color="blue"> </font>




That would have to be Amsoil hay ............ /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[CT_Tree_Guy]

<font color="blue">That would have to be Amsoil hay .......... </font> /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif


Let the "Hay Wars" begin!!!!!! Yeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeehawwwwwwwww!!!!!!!!!! /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

 

[kenmac]

<font color="blue"> </font>
Let the "Hay Wars" begin!!!!!! Yeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeehawwwwwwwww!!!!!!!!!! /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif )</font>




I agree , these oil wars are getting old.................... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Sully2]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( <font color="blue">That would have to be Amsoil hay .......... </font> /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif


Let the "Hay Wars" begin!!!!!! Yeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeehawwwwwwwww!!!!!!!!!! /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif )</font>

Just remember to WATER your hay with DISTILLED WATER"...so that you dont introduce any "trace elements" into it.... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Ya cant trust that rain water...

 

[HGM]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( </font><font color="blueclass=small">( <font color="blue">That would have to be Amsoil hay .......... </font> /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif


Let the "Hay Wars" begin!!!!!! Yeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeehawwwwwwwww!!!!!!!!!! /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif )</font>

Ya cant trust that rain water... )</font>



Just remember to WATER your hay with DISTILLED WATER"...so that you dont introduce any "trace elements" into it.... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

It might be best to build an enclosure to so you can control the air filtration as well. This may also assist in creating condensation for watering. Surely not worth doing any other way due to the impurities in the atmosphere... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif