There has to be an easier way...

[Dallas_Lilly]

When I remove the cutter I rest the front on cinder blocks and the rear naturally rests on the tail wheel. You can then maneuver it in position. I have a certain area that I park the mower in and it is level and this works well for me.

 

[tuolumne]

For minor front to back adjustments, put the loader down and curl the bucket slightly back and forth.

 

[bialecki]

As a new tractor owner I can sympathize with people's anguish with the need for a hard level surface for attaching FELs, MMM, and 3 pt implements. Makes me think about pouring a slab of concrete just for the purpose of hooking up the attachments and implements.

 

[crbr]

you think a 3pt is a PITA to hook up.....

try lineing up (4) 3/4" pins on my 72" MMM ... the part i hate the worst is the PTO hookup as its dead center under the tractor with very little room under there to work and i always feel like something is going to move and squish me

Here's what I do to change out the MMM. I have a B7800 for reference. Currently, I have an overhead chainfall type come-along, some 2.5 ton rated. It's secured to the roof trusses by hanging from an 8' - 6 x 6 post that is span through the trusses. I hoist the machine up about 12" - 15" by the front bumper after releasing the mower and easily roll it out the front. That removal in the side-ways direction is a bunch of crapola. It takes all of about 3 minutes to unhook the mid-PTO, the two raise arms on the deck, and the release pin up front. Done deal.

And here's another done deal. I have an electric Warn hoist on the way. It is the Warn H1000 with hard wired controls.

 

[Chuck K.]

Thanks for all the input. I have searched but can not find where to buy telescoping draft links for my tractor, I will call my local dealer when I get a day off work. About what should I expect to pay for them?

 

[JerryG]

Thanks for all the input. I have searched but can not find where to buy telescoping draft links for my tractor, I will call my local dealer when I get a day off work. About what should I expect to pay for them?

Way to much. If that is right and I think that it is, you might try West Kentucky Tractor Parts. They are a compact tractor salvage dealer.
Used salvaged tractor parts including John Deere, Ford, Kubota and other Japanese tractor part dealers

 

[rickmacheske]

I use Pat's easy hitch system and a hydraulic top link. Most items take less than 30 seconds to hook up. Everything else but the PHD takes less than 60 seconds. Definitely consider an "Easy Hitch" solution.

 

[cp1969]

If you've got a half-way level piece of concrete big enough for the mower, a mower is about the easiest of all implements to hook up--it has wheels that allow it to move in any direction. Mine also has floating brackets that allow the hitch pins to move up and down, so it is really a piece of cake to hook up. Hooking up the driveshaft is the hardest part of it.

The tiller and box blade are another story.

On those, I hook up the top link first. Then you can either pull forward or back up (or, extend or retract the top link) to rotate the implement (and the hitch pins) up or down to get them to align with the arms.

Make sure the turnbuckles are loose and don't be afraid of liberal application of boot energy on the arms to make them slide over the pins.

 

[RalphVa]

Park it on concrete and put a board with a dollies on each end underneath the front of the brush hog frame. I put dollies or castors underneath all my implements except the BB that slides quite easily on grass or dirt.

Ralph

 

[dtd24]

After reading this I had the hardest time ever re-installing my sub frame backhoe. Man, took me forever. I didn't get any work done that night.