Thermostart vs magnetic oil pan heater

[Gary Sweat]

I used my new block heater and my TS this morning it was 15 above zero and it started better than my truck that was sitting outside too I like it.

That sounds promising. What size block heater did you use? I bought the 300w version magnetic and it won't fit between the center drain plug and the outside pan bolts. Maybe I can just stick on the side of the tranny and heat up the hydraulic oil Now it's off to TSC to see if they have a smaller one.

 

[Northland]

Since a magnetic heater is OUTSIDE the pan it stands to reason that there will be a fair amount of heat loss as compared to a jacket (frost plug) heater.
I have used both and the frost plug style IMHO is the better way to go.

I will have to take back my earlier suggestion about preferring the magnetic heater over the block heater and now agree with you. It's -10C here today. I had plugged in my block heater for 60 minutes and my tractor started instantly with no white smoke at all.

 

[California]

... I always thought I had sort of a Cadillac with my wet brakes and power steering. Now that I have the automatic light I'm even more convinced!:laughing::laughing:

Everybody bow! We have royalty among us!!!

 

[clemsonfor]

I think this is the longest running thread i have seen in the over a year since i have been here. WOW.

 

[Gary Sweat]

I had wet brakes on mine. Until I replaced the seals

 

[careyo63]

:laughing::laughing::laughing: No Comment!!!!!!!

 

[Pete Judd]

After watching this thread for a while, I thought I would put my 2 cents in. I lived in Fairbanks and Anchorage AK years ago, and had a VW Rabbit diesel. Dealing with temps down to under -50 F and I had to get to work every morning. I had a 20 amp 120v outlet in the carport, Yes open to the elements, and had the car plugged into that, I would get up, hit the breaker for the car heaters as I headed to the shower, and then make coffee. I had the lower radiator hose heater, I know this won't work with a Yanmar tractor, a Mag oil pan heater, and a small heater in the car. The whole idea was to heat the oil to allow the starter to overcome the thick oil in the crankcase and maybe to warm the block a little bit. The VW had glow plugs, and I have had many other diesels with them, and have also had several Yanmar marine diesels and Detroit 2 cycle engines without before getting this tractor. In the cold weather, on the boats, I would put a 250 watt heat lamp pointed at the air intake area, the marine motors don't have air cleaners, for around 20-30 min, and then I could even hand start them with the crank. Good luck

 

[California]

Since this has become the 2010 edition of the Annual ThermoStart Thread it wouldn't be complete without Yanmar's official instructions!

I've posted this previously, here it is again. Note this is for YM240 the US version of YM2000/YM1700, so it says the throttle is push=fast, pull=stop. Edit this to the opposite for Japanese-market Yanmars.

Also - this text leaves out a step 7b that is in their other manuals. 'Spin a couple of revolutions to reach full cranking speed then let go of the compression release while continuing to crank. The engine should fire immediately'.

This '7b' adds the inertia of the spinning crankshaft to the power of the starter, which really helps on the big-bore 2-cylinder engines.

 

[Gary Sweat]

Not sure but step 8 seems like it would play havoc with the starter bendix gear teeth.

Starter is turning and engine fires, bendix clutch sends the starter gear back to the starter and then the starter slams it back into the flywheel. I would think a few times of this and the flywheel and starter gear teeth aren't going to look pretty:licking:

I think I will pass on step 8.