These thinhgs I have..this project I have..."Advice" I need!

[Shield Arc]

SA good to see ya back !

Glad your back SA.

Thanks guys!

 

[square1]

Another question on this project. I have to weld 14 1/2" diameter hubs into the center of the 28" rims. I figure on leaving an average zip tie thickness gap (probably just shy of 1/8") all around when I tack it together to allow for expansion during welding. I plan to weld full diameter front & back.

Here's my question (don't laugh): Should I let the air out of the tires for welding? Is it possible I could heat the air in the tires enough to cause a blow out? I mean they are black tires and I'm certain they see full sunshine on hot days in their intended use. But still i wonder.... Hey! I asked you not to laugh

 

[k0ua]

Another question on this project. I have to weld 14 1/2" diameter hubs into the center of the 28" rims. I figure on leaving an average zip tie thickness gap (probably just shy of 1/8") all around when I tack it together to allow for expansion during welding. I plan to weld full diameter front & back.

Here's my question (don't laugh): Should I let the air out of the tires for welding? Is it possible I could heat the air in the tires enough to cause a blow out? I mean they are black tires and I'm certain they see full sunshine on hot days in their intended use. But still i wonder.... Hey! I asked you not to laugh

you are not supposed to weld at all on rims that have tires on them. It is no laughing matter

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HiLeji8bLOk

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jBUVzgCHHuA

 

[square1]

you are not supposed to weld at all on rims that have tires on them. It is no laughing matter

Wow, never knew about that! Thank you for posting it. Sometime my 6th sense is in target.

 

[k0ua]

Wow, never knew about that! Thank you for posting it. Sometime my 6th sense is in target.

It is not every day you can save someones life.. I am happy to have saved yours.:thumbsup:

By the way, never ever use brake cleaner to de-grease parts you intend to weld on in the near future due to the possibility of generating phosgene gas. And it don't take much to take you out or disable you forever.

 

[dstig1]

It is not every day you can save someones life.. I am happy to have saved yours.:thumbsup:

By the way, never ever use brake cleaner to de-grease parts you intend to weld on in the near future due to the possibility of generating phosgene gas. And it don't take much to take you out or disable you forever.

Actually the real point is never ever use chlorinated solvents on something you will weld. Phosgene is a chlorine compound, so it can only be created from something containing chlorine. Non-chlorinated brake cleaner (or carb cleaner, or whatever) does not create this risk. Having dealt with Phosgene in an industrial setting, it is worth respecting, but I do think this point gets more play than it really warrants. Still, better safe than sorry, and it is easy to do so, so why not just avoid the risk altogether?

 

[Mace Canute]

Actually the real point is never ever use chlorinated solvents on something you will weld. Phosgene is a chlorine compound, so it can only be created from something containing chlorine. Non-chlorinated brake cleaner (or carb cleaner, or whatever) does not create this risk. Having dealt with Phosgene in an industrial setting, it is worth respecting, but I do think this point gets more play than it really warrants. Still, better safe than sorry, and it is easy to do so, so why not just avoid the risk altogether?

I've made the mistake of using chlorinated brake cleaner to degrease parts I welded on, even with being totally dry there was enough left on the pieces that the fumes really choked me up bad. I might be sensitive to the fumes, don't know how I would quantify that, but I do know I will never again use chlorinated brake cleaner to degrease welding projects!

 

[square1]

It is not every day you can save someones life.. I am happy to have saved yours.

I have watched that video 3 or 4 times, still shocked I had never heard this warning before. To think this was going to be today's project !! Looks like option two, bolt up, just became not only option one, but the ONLY safe option.

 

[arrow]

I'd say the numbers are off on my PA-300. My Lincoln V350-Pro does the same thing with 20 to 25-amps less on the read out. Personally I don't pay a lot of attention to gauges, I just use them as a reference. I do what ever the puddle requires.

First SA let me say it is a pleasure to have you back. I believe you are correct that different welders have differentiated "controls" I ran this bead at 122 amps on my little SW 140. It looks to be a bit undercut as well so I throttled back to 115. Seems to run best at 120 on my machine.

 

[rankrank1]

First SA let me say it is a pleasure to have you back. I believe you are correct that different welders have differentiated "controls" I ran this bead at 122 amps on my little SW 140. It looks to be a bit undercut as well so I throttled back to 115. Seems to run best at 120 on my machine.

Along with the welder dials not being exactly calibrated from machine to machine, you also have the fact that each persons household supply voltages likely to vary. Some households are connected at the high end of the tolerance (240 volt and 120 volt) and some households are at the low end of the tolerance (220 volt and 110 volt) and then the majority is somewhere in between with an average of (230 volt and 115 volt).

At simplified level; a welding is nothing more than a voltage converter that converts your household input voltage to an output voltage that is suitable for welding. Or in other words, take a given welder to someone else's house and you will likely have to adjust the dial a bit from where you normally run to account for their household voltage being slightly different than your household.