Thoughts on Alumaloy/Duraweld/WizardWeld?

[BigBlue1]

I saw a Youtube video where a guy in the UK was trying out various applications of a low-temp aluminum repair or 'welding' product called Duraweld. It's basically aluminum soldering with a low melting point stick of this stuff and a standard propane torch. Was wondering what people have experienced with this type of thing? I'm not looking for it for any real welding needs but it may come in handy to repair aluminum pieces with problems (cracks, holes, chunks broken out) or stick non-critical pieces of aluminum or other pot metals together.

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[dragoneggs]

That would be fun to try! I have only soldered copper. Following along.

 

[Roadworthy]

I've not tried it - perhaps I should. For minor repairs I've had very good luck with J B Weld - basically an epoxy.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

Those type products have been around a long time. back in the 50's the refrigeration supply houses had it. Was great for connecting dissimilar metals and repairing aluminum plate evaporators. It worked just like soft solder but had a higher tensile strength. I would bet you can get it on Amazon. I used it several times when an O/A set up was not practical to do a quick repair.

Ron

 

[yomax4]

All of that Alumaloy type solder is simply zinc. Ok for filling holes or maybe small tubes but not so good for joining something like aluminum angle iron. Plus it's expensive. If you want to try it out you can get #52 fro Harris or Alumite from Weldcote Metals for a fraction of the cost of the others. Same stuff. Years back there was even a flux for it which made it better but I don't see flux for it anymore. I have a LOT of this stuff laying around but almost never use it. It was fun to use at shows for the wow factor but I have no practical use for it in my shop.

 

[Shaneard]

I tried the alumaloy crap once, it was awful.

 

[BigBlue1]

All of that Alumaloy type solder is simply zinc. Ok for filling holes or maybe small tubes but not so good for joining something like aluminum angle iron. Plus it's expensive. If you want to try it out you can get #52 fro Harris or Alumite from Weldcote Metals for a fraction of the cost of the others. Same stuff. Years back there was even a flux for it which made it better but I don't see flux for it anymore. I have a LOT of this stuff laying around but almost never use it. It was fun to use at shows for the wow factor but I have no practical use for it in my shop.

I tried the alumaloy crap once, it was awful.

I can't find the exact video anymore but the one I watched on Youtube from a guy in the UK showed that it was a surprisingly solid connection when done right (Durafix Easyweld, available in Europe but apparently the same product). He attached a piece of aluminum at 90* to an aluminum channel and it took some significant use of a BFH to delaminate it. Again, not something to be used for mission critical structural fastening but it certainly seems like more than a useless gimmick.

Also, it seems like some of these come with flux in the rod.

Anyway, I guess I should just try it. I'll check into the alternative products mentioned above.

Rob

 

[Travelover]

Harbor Freight used to sell it. I tried it when I first bought it and it worked well as long as the surface was wire brushed with a stainless steel brush and heated to the point where the rod melted on contact with the surface. Oddly, I've never found a need for it. I usually bolt aluminum projects together.

Read the reviews here. Aluminum Welding Rods - Pack of 8 Low Temperature Rods

 

[GaryM]

I used one of those products years back when making a radio antenna.

Attached aluminum rod director elements to aluminum tube. Worked fine, but no stress involved.

 

[TractorGuy]

Never used it but one video I watched the guy had the metal cleaned super bright. He said he scrubbed it with a stainless brush then wiped it down with acetone. He attached a piece of angle to a flat plate. It flowed to the angle first and he had to apply heat under the plate to get it hot enough to flow to the other piece. Much like soft soldering copper. He was able to break it off but it took some doing. I imagine how clean you get the metal will determine your success.

 

[rangerfredbob]

I used the stuff a couple times, once on a decorative piece that fell over and broke, fixed close enough but zero stress, second is still going but took way too much time and experimenting. Metal has to be VERY clean and very evenly heated, some joints might look good but are weak...

 

[jgriffin1720]

that stuff has it's place. Like everyone has said it's all in the prep. The metal needs to be completely oxide free, stainless wire wheel and acetone, or alcohol to clean. Prep it like you would if you were TIG welding a pressure vessel lol otherwise it doesn't work that great.

 

[Gary Fowler]

that stuff has it's place. Like everyone has said it's all in the prep. The metal needs to be completely oxide free, stainless wire wheel and acetone, or alcohol to clean. Prep it like you would if you were TIG welding a pressure vessel lol otherwise it doesn't work that great.

Same as welding any material, clean works better. Any time you weld aluminum, it has to be very clean even when using TIG or MIG so I would not expect the low temp solder to be any different.

 

[sd455dan]

I can't find the exact video anymore but the one I watched on Youtube from a guy in the UK showed that it was a surprisingly solid connection when done right (Durafix Easyweld, available in Europe but apparently the same product). He attached a piece of aluminum at 90* to an aluminum channel and it took some significant use of a BFH to delaminate it. Again, not something to be used for mission critical structural fastening but it certainly seems like more than a useless gimmick.

Also, it seems like some of these come with flux in the rod.

Anyway, I guess I should just try it. I'll check into the alternative products mentioned above.

Rob

Played with HTS 2000 worked OK- haven't bought any since getting a Tig for Aluminum

when done correctly pretty strong

Vid shows several repairs including fuel tank, transmission housing, engine accessory bracket, stripped threads

HTS 2000 Aluminum Repair - YouTube

They have a new 2nd gen version that is composed of 9 ingredients claims to be better than others, I have not tried it.

Not to be confused with Alumaloy, Alumaweld, Alumarod, Durafix, Aladdin 3 in 1, or any other first generation rods most of them consisting of 3 alloys. HTS-2000 is a unique stand-alone product, Comprised of nine alloys that cost more to produce and through exhaustive testing led to this superior advanced technology. HTS-2000 has an elongation of 10% in 2 inches (rather than the standard 3% like the first generation rods listed above) which makes HTS-2000 3 times more flexible and stronger than any of its competitors. It also easily penetrates past impurities that lay below the metal痴 surface which may be impossible to penetrate with competitors materials. Also unlike the first generation rods HTS-2000 does notrequire steel or special cleaning brushes. All of this means not only a more expensive manufacturing process with new technology but also superior quality (this is the best brazing rod you can buy anywhere at any price) direct to the customer, see our testimonials and video and it will be easy for you to choose HTS-2000 as your #1 choice.

 

[CADplans]

My BIL,, who, in fact knew nothing about welding,, had 20 all aluminum jon boats at his marina,, this was in the early 1970's,,

He stopped in a welding shop one day, and asked what was the cheapest way to weld aluminum,,
the counter guy sold him a pound of 14 inch coated aluminum arc welding rods,, 1/8" rods,, IIRC,, kinda like a 6011 steel rod, except it was for aluminum,

After trying to arc weld with them, (that was a TOTAL disaster on the thin boats!!) he decided to try the oxy-acetylene torch.

Well, he simply gas welded with the coated aluminum rods, and the oxy-acetylene torch,, the weld could not have looked more professional,

He said it was no different than welding steel with steel filler metal,
he never took a boat to anyone for repair after that,

 

[stuckmotor]

I can only think of one time when I've needed to weld aluminum.

 

[yomax4]

My BIL,, who, in fact knew nothing about welding,, had 20 all aluminum jon boats at his marina,, this was in the early 1970's,,

He stopped in a welding shop one day, and asked what was the cheapest way to weld aluminum,,
the counter guy sold him a pound of 14 inch coated aluminum arc welding rods,, 1/8" rods,, IIRC,, kinda like a 6011 steel rod, except it was for aluminum,

After trying to arc weld with them, (that was a TOTAL disaster on the thin boats!!) he decided to try the oxy-acetylene torch.

Well, he simply gas welded with the coated aluminum rods, and the oxy-acetylene torch,, the weld could not have looked more professional,

He said it was no different than welding steel with steel filler metal,
he never took a boat to anyone for repair after that,

This is true. Aluminum stick electrodes are better for brazing than stick welding. 3/32 makes a nice bead.

 

[Gary Fowler]

My BIL,, who, in fact knew nothing about welding,, had 20 all aluminum jon boats at his marina,, this was in the early 1970's,,

He stopped in a welding shop one day, and asked what was the cheapest way to weld aluminum,,
the counter guy sold him a pound of 14 inch coated aluminum arc welding rods,, 1/8" rods,, IIRC,, kinda like a 6011 steel rod, except it was for aluminum,

After trying to arc weld with them, (that was a TOTAL disaster on the thin boats!!) he decided to try the oxy-acetylene torch.

Well, he simply gas welded with the coated aluminum rods, and the oxy-acetylene torch,, the weld could not have looked more professional,

He said it was no different than welding steel with steel filler metal,
he never took a boat to anyone for repair after that,

In 1978 a welding supplier left me some flux cored aluminum rods for brazing that he wanted me to try. Using an oxy-acetylene torch I welded up a butt joint in some 3" aluminum pipe and it was as good as a TIG weld. I dont recall the name though and never saw them in any welding supply catalogs after that. They were similar in design to flux cored lead solder but they were stronger than the aluminum. We cut straps from the pipe and bent them using a standard ASME bending jig. I sure wish I had saved that info on those rods.

One thing of note is that I quarter rolled the pipe out while staying on the top quarter so I cant say how they would be in all positions.

 

[yomax4]

In 1978 a welding supplier left me some flux cored aluminum rods for brazing that he wanted me to try. Using an oxy-acetylene torch I welded up a butt joint in some 3" aluminum pipe and it was as good as a TIG weld. I dont recall the name though and never saw them in any welding supply catalogs after that. They were similar in design to flux cored lead solder but they were stronger than the aluminum. We cut straps from the pipe and bent them using a standard ASME bending jig. I sure wish I had saved that info on those rods.

One thing of note is that I quarter rolled the pipe out while staying on the top quarter so I cant say how they would be in all positions.

You can still get those flux cored aluminum rods from Weldcote Metals. If you look at their website they are under "point of purchase" They are kinda nasty though. They will eat the box they come in and the shelf they sit on. Work pretty good though if you can stay out of the fumes.