Thread Sealing Tape?

[OzarkChris]

Just my $0.02, when it comes to tape dope. On all of hydraulics I've done maintenance on I've used both or none. Really depends on the SOP of the company. At home, because I typically buy used implements, loaders, tractors etc, I have a multitude of different fittings (and usually the one needing replaced didn't get restocked when I used it the last time ). What I've found that works best for me both at work (if I have a choice) & home boils down to the type of fitting and type of material. For NPT(M) I like either a thick tape (e.g., yellow for gas/propane) that is wrapped to 2nd thread or a flexible when set paste (again being careful not to go to the end), think aviation or gaszilla type. The reason for this is Not to stop leaks, but to facilitate removal when it fails again. For BSPT (JIS-PT) & BSPP (JIS-PF) I typically only use flexible paste. Metric taper (especially on flair end) I use thick tape - easier than using the wide brush on paste. Straight threads (SAE & ISO 6149) I only use hydraulic rated pastes unless the fitting already has some dried stuff on it from the factory. JIS B2351 and DIN I've used both thick tape and flexible paste with good results. Finally, the 4 bolt flange, obviously use the o-ring/gasket but use some red/blue thread lock (depending on size) to keep the bolts from vibrating out. All of the various types of ends these fittings can have on them really don't seem to make much difference except the banjo bolts where I will use regular tape (not thick) making sure I don't have tape to close to hole or end I really have had issues with people using paste on these. As mentioned in another post, the type of material the fitting is made from really makes a difference too. SS is the worst, if you even think about putting two pieces together without something they will weld each other together before you even pull them from the shelf - well maybe not exactly, but you get the idea. Some of the Chinese parts I've had to use (penny pinching employers) have been pot metal that has been chromed - pretty but don't last and need tape/paste to keep from leaking. Other nightmares have included regular gas black pipe (not rated for pressure), fitting that have had both tape & paste (NEVER A GOOD IDEA!!) And as been mentioned in another post, old plugs that have been over tightened destroying the bottom & taper - short of replacing the housing, re-drilling and tapping with next size up there really isn't much you can do to truly fix it, paste, thick tape will help short term, but ...

Hope this helps!

 

[ArlyA]

I worked for Terex in there digger-derrick division and before I showed up, they found spools getting messed up with teflon tape fragments. They switched to teflon dope and the problem was solved.

 

[WranglerX]

I hate tape.... Always seems to booger up threaded connections and finally found a "pipe dope" that seem to be within specs for almost all farm/ranch/small wanta be ranch operations.... Even seals where PTFE tape will not.... Use it on all plumbing, hydraulics , fuel, water....

 

[bigtiller]

Pipe dope:
I found the plumbing area in my local Lowes home center easy enough, it is a large area.
I was wondering around looking for some pipe dope for a small propane project.
A red-vested worker walked by so I asked him where the pipe dope was.
He shrugged his shoulders, got on his radio and asked a friend.
Neither one of them knew what pipe dope was.

 

[ArlyA]

Pipe dope - Wikipedia​

https://en.wikipedia.org › wiki › Pipe_dope



Pipe dope is any thread lubricant, thread sealing compound, and anaerobic chemical sealants that are used to make a pipe thread joint leak proof and pressure tight.

 

[ArlyA]

Pipe dope:
I found the plumbing area in my local Lowes home center easy enough, it is a large area.
I was wondering around looking for some pipe dope for a small propane project.
A red-vested worker walked by so I asked him where the pipe dope was.
He shrugged his shoulders, got on his radio and asked a friend.
Neither one of them knew what pipe dope was.

How old was the red vested employee?? Many of us, in a certain age bracket, can make fun of this! You may need to go to a smaller store.

 

[hube2]

Pipe dope:
I found the plumbing area in my local Lowes home center easy enough, it is a large area.
I was wondering around looking for some pipe dope for a small propane project.
A red-vested worker walked by so I asked him where the pipe dope was.
He shrugged his shoulders, got on his radio and asked a friend.
Neither one of them knew what pipe dope was.

Does not surprise me at all.

 

[hube2]

I hate tape.... Always seems to booger up threaded connections and finally found a "pipe dope" that seem to be within specs for almost all farm/ranch/small wanta be ranch operations.... Even seals where PTFE tape will not.... Use it on all plumbing, hydraulics , fuel, water....

I will give that a try. The oil change can wait till I get it.

 

[jjeff]

Pipe dope:
I found the plumbing area in my local Lowes home center easy enough, it is a large area.
I was wondering around looking for some pipe dope for a small propane project.
A red-vested worker walked by so I asked him where the pipe dope was.
He shrugged his shoulders, got on his radio and asked a friend.
Neither one of them knew what pipe dope was.

I knew I was in trouble when the employee pulled out a pipe and a dime bag.

 

[OldPaint]

A brush on thread sealer instead of Teflon Tape.

What Egon said. Use a thread paste on hydraulic stuff. You haven't seen a destroyed pump until a strand of teflon goes through it. Pumps have VERY low clearance, typically only enough for the hydraulic fluid to lubricate them. A strip of teflon will not fit where oil will. Paste, not tape. Tape is very convenient, and pretty cool around centrifigual pumps, but keep it far away from positive displacement pumps. In another county is closer than is safe.

 

[droptop]

Any hydraulic / pneumatic application using an NPT thread I use Loctite 545 Hydraulic/Pneumatic thread sealant, never had a leak using this and there's no chance of a piece of tape getting somewhere to cause problems. I recently found another brand that is equivalent to the Loctite for alot less called Vibra-tite that is made in USA on Amazon.

 

[Pete O]

I've been using a few drops of Loctite 542 on these sorts of applications for probably 20 years now, no leaks and no blocked valves.

 

[bigtiller]

I knew I was in trouble when the employee pulled out a pipe and a dime bag.

LOL
The confused look on his face led me to think that was his first thought.

 

[Captain Dirty]

Almost every drain plug I have encountered had a flange or a head larger than the treaded portion and sealed with a copper/brass/plastic/crushable washer that one was supposed to replace with each change. (Something I honored more in the breach than in the observance.). If the threading on your plug is standard, almost any auto parts store will have a replacement and replacement washers/gaskets.

The most bastardized drain plug I encountered was the crankcase drain on the V-6 in a Volvo 264; the plug was a recessed square drive slightly smaller than a 3/8" ratchet drive. But that engine was a Volvo-Pugeot collaboration; the Gauls had to leave their mark.

 

[WranglerX]

Pipe dope:
I found the plumbing area in my local Lowes home center easy enough, it is a large area.
I was wondering around looking for some pipe dope for a small propane project.
A red-vested worker walked by so I asked him where the pipe dope was.
He shrugged his shoulders, got on his radio and asked a friend.
Neither one of them knew what pipe dope was.

Most of the floor people in Lowes or Home depot are lucky they can find their way to work, let alone a single item in store....

 

[SylvainG]

My dealer extended a hose and that hose had a small leak at the connector. He seems to have used teflon tape because when I undid the connection, the sealant came off as filament. I replaced that sealant with Permatex 59234 High temperature thread sealant, wiped the extra sealant protruding from the connector and let it dry for a day. Used the backhoe for a few hours yesterday, no more leak

 

[PILOON]

I've been caught a few time without a suitable dope or tape on hand.
I resorted to using polyurethane caulking as a 'dope'. (very much like windshield adhesive)
Never hardens as such and does a super job of sealing the threads.

Having dismantled some offshore fittings I noticed that they often use an epoxy based sealant.
Now that's hard to separate, but heat helps.

As to oil pan crush gaskets I have made my own using HDPE material and my assorted mini hole saws. Never a leak so far.
Now that came about one time having drained only to find I had no crush washers on hand. (LOL, that or I could not find them)

 

[Flad]

Hi' there are three most common types of oil plugs/drain plugs, 1 is a tapered thread, self sealing no need for sealant or tape
2 a parallel threaded type with a shoulder gasket/ washer usually softened copper alloy or fiber also no sealant or tape required, replace the gasket/washer or if the copper gaskets has work hardened anneal it.
3 parallel threaded recessed flange with an "O" ring works the same as 2, replace the "O" ring with the correct cord size and diameter and material type it's made of that is critical with this type of plug seal also no sealant or tape required.

That's all good on new machines or rarely used machines, the older the more wear on threads and sealing faces you can still get leaks, Stay away from any type of thread tape.
One of the best thread sealants is a Locktight product called 515 Flange and gasket sealant I have been using it for over 25 years on every thing from hydraulic, steam, hot oil, heaters, gearbox cases carbys plugs and seals of all types, gases like nitrogen, CO2,compressed air, argon, old pipe work with worn threads threads sparingly under a layer of thread tape It can even be used to replace thin gaskets.
The advantage is that the sealant will only go off if it's under compression, any excess that ends up in the system dose not harden, and there is no cure time just bolt it up and ready to use, but the best part is its easy to take apart again and reasonably east to clean up.

But just like any thing that's good it's not cheap, use it sparingly as you don't need much, a thin smear is enough. like any other product clean and dry components before use
Regard's.

 

[hube2]

Well, I took the plugs out and the had teflon tape on them. The top layer on the threads were they were exposed was coated in gray paint so the tape was put on in the factory. Since that's what the mfr used on it that's what I used.

 

[Lineman North Florida]

I have used teflon tape on hydraulic fittings for over 30 years and have never had a problem , I do a neat job or try to and have had zero issues.