3-Point Hitch Three point hitch clearance on a 2520

[ChuckinNH]

Hi Guys,

I am looking for a tractor for my dad to replace our Case 1120. The Deere 2520 is definitely in the running along with the Massey 1528 and Kubota 2630 & 3030. I have to say I find this to be an irritating problem with the 2520 along with Deere'e lack of a 3-speed hydro, a decent seat like the X-Series S/E and their Mickey Mouse 47" snowblower setup. I like this machine but why does Deere feel so compelled to cut corners on everything but the price? A blower that is too narrow for the tractor? Nod goes to Kubota and Massey and NH here as all have 60's avail. All others have loaders designed for that specific model tractor, good seating and no need to drill a hole in the fender for the ind. mower lift or add a diverter valve for the MMM. Do they have a rear remote outlet avail yet? My Case had that from the factory in 1994 along with a tilt wheel. At the end of the day, this is still a sweet tractor but why should we have to change seats, add wheel spacers and MMM front caster zerks and otherwise re-design a nice tractor? Not being a jerk here just hoping Deere is a frequent reader and hears some legitimate concerns. I will prob buy him this machine since an old supervisor at Hood works for a big Deere shop 10 minutes from his house.

Those things bothered me enough to take the 2520 out of contention for me. The 2320 has fewer irritating issues, and is a consideration, but I'm worried that the slow hydraulics would bother me over time.

 

[randyvl]

Those things bothered me enough to take the 2520 out of contention for me. The 2320 has fewer irritating issues, and is a consideration, but I'm worried that the slow hydraulics would bother me over time.

I was also concerned about the "slow hydraulics" until my wife told me my "****" A personality traits were showing. She reminded me that I am not buying a tractor for commercial use... If 5-6 seconds per bucket load was bothering me, I had problems. ((she said (her opinion not mine) I waist more time per day on TBN than I will with a slower bucket))

Maybe she is right for once.

I am more concerned about the HP and Torque difference...but again, maybe I over "****"yze


Using specs posted before, and assuming the bucket starts at down position, the time difference is

roll back-------- 0.93 sec
raise bucket---- 1.54 sec
dump bucket--- 1.54 msec
roll back-------- 0.93 sec
lower bucket --- 0.93 sec

total time difference is 5.87 secs

Specs from JD on 200CX:

2320 Cycle Times:

Loader raise, seconds 4.73
Loader lower, seconds 2.88
Bucket dump, seconds 4.73
Bucket rollback, seconds 2.88

2520 Cycle Times:

Loader raise, seconds 3.19
Loader lower, seconds 1.95
Bucket dump, seconds 3.19
Bucket rollback, seconds 1.95

 

[ChuckinNH]

I will say that after using the loader on a 2305 recently, I had no issues with the time, and in fact found that making minute adjustments when scraping a couple inches of snow from turf, the smoother movements a help, rather than a hinderance. Torque wise, I know that the 2320 would do anything I expect from a tractor that size. I have no need for 5' rotary cutters either, so that makes it easier. The bucket dump times on my Kubota were half what they are on a JD 2520 so the difference was pretty noticable the first time I used a 2320 loader.

 

[kvjohndeere]

If it were Me & 3 point hitch was rubbing my tires I would be calling My dealer then John Deere I feel sorry for you guys having to deal with that stuff Just like the 2305 Hydro Fans & & filter being so low ! Bassically All John Deere Was Make A bigger Frame for The 2320 & 2520 Than The 2305 ! They Took The 2320 & 2520 Same Frame Axles Etc. ! They Just pust taller & wider tires on the 2520 Plus it hase more horse power & Hydrualics ! But on The 2320 smaller tires same frame ! I just took Measurements Too my probable Rubbing Points In The Fully Raised position I have 2.5" of clearance & 3.25" in The fully lowered Position ! Also I tried It in swaying mode rocking back & forth It still has Great Clearance No rubbing At all ! Im not A Rocket Scientist But at The Dealership You can plainly see The Difference Wider tires Same Axle ! They Should of made The Axle wider ! I would Get on The phone & Call Deere ! Right Away & complain The 2520 is awesome But they need Feedback Call Deere & your Dealer They should Fix this problem With The 2520's Is everyone Having this Problem ???? Is it with R4's or Turfs or both & is there anyone else having Tires rubbing on there 2320 ! I have the R4's on my tractor ! Write back Yall take care kvjohndeere

 

[sal64]

hello i see your drawing on the spacers i am going to make 2 2 inch for my jd 2320 i see how you counterbored the holes to mount on tractor to lock down ,then new treaded holes for weel why can u just make clearance holes and use longer bolts to lock to weel axel? and turn a step for rim to mount on .also will it make a differance i mow on hills and would like to have more stability thanks sal

 

[nate_m]

Good question, sla64.
But here is why I did not simply use through holes:

1. I had a heck a time trying to find the new size of lug bolt that would have required. If memory serves correctly, you would need a M12 x 1.25 (fine thread) 75mm long in a 12.9 grade. I searched the Internet and local fastener stores but couldn't come up with anything. Plenty of 12.9 grade out there and plenty of fine thread too, but not in that combination...
2. I gave up on the above hunt when I had the foresight to think about how difficult it might be to mount the new spacers and wheel to the hub. You would have to have a long headless stud made to slide the spacer over and then slide the wheel over to hold them in place while getting the other bolts started. Then remove it and save it, etc etc. too much for me.

Good luck and let us know how yours turn out.

I've never regretted mine. The added stability and weight along with filled tires are plenty of ballast for anything I can put on the FEL without having a ballast box nipping at my heels...

 

[sal64]

hello nate m tu for responding to my question .but i dont understand your second part u would only need a longer mm hex head bolt to go through the rim spacer then bolt to weel hub also i noticed on the blueprint there is no turned diamiter to put weel on then screws if that is the case you are only using the screws as support witch in my oppinion is no way strong enough to hold that weel. also check out Industrial Supply Equipment from MSC Industrial Supply they have all kindes off metric only problem is you have to buy box quantaties. sal

 

[nate_m]

hello nate m tu for responding to my question .but i dont understand your second part u would only need a longer mm hex head bolt to go through the rim spacer then bolt to weel hub

• Picture in your mind the process of putting a 75+ lb wheel on a hub. Now picture doing that plus holding a 50 lb spacer behind it AND getting the holes to line up. The simple solution for me was to bolt the spacer to the hub and then bolt the wheel to the spacer. If you can hold that spacer in place and bring that wheel into alignment with the hub at the same time, I salute you.

also i noticed on the blueprint there is no turned diamiter to put weel on then screws if that is the case you are only using the screws as support witch in my oppinion is no way strong enough to hold that weel.

• That turned diameter is only there to aid putting the wheel on the hub. There is at least 1/16 of an inch between the boss and the rim. Therefor, it is not providing any support to the wheel.

also check out Industrial Supply Equipment from MSC Industrial Supply they have all kindes off metric only problem is you have to buy box quantaties. sal

• If MSC carries a M12-1.25 bolt in grade 12.9, I couldn't find it. I could only find grade 8.8 in that size. I would not trust a grade 8.8 to be strong enough.