tightening sway chains

[Ginormous]

When I mowed with my new 2210 the other day, I noticed that the 3-pt mower had a lot of range of motion depending on which way the ground sloped. I think the sway chains (part E in Hoye's 3-pt hitch part kit) weren't tight enough. I tightened them up as much as they would go, but the 3-pt mower still can sway back and forth about 6 inches, which isn't bad,but I can't get them as tight as the ones are on my 1700. Any comments on how tight these can/should be?

 

[winston1]

I don't know what the doctor ordered but I keep mine real snug. It has always worked fine for me. :thumbsup:

 

[284 International]

On mine, the threaded ends will very nearly touch inside the turnbuckle. If you've gotten it tightened to that point and it still isn't tight enough, you will have to change something.

On my YM2000, the anchor for the chains is outside the mount for the lift arm, so restricts the lift arm from swinging toward the middle of the tractor. I don't know how the 2210 is set up; a couple other machines have the chains mounted on the center of the tractor.

Moving the implement's lift pins so they point inward moves the arms closer to the center of the tractor, and will take up the slack (at least to some degree) you're experiencing. If the chains mount to the center of the tractor, put the pins pointing to the outside.

I run the chains on my mower snug. I don't like the mower banging around 6 or 7 feet behind the axle.

 

[California]

My neighbor the real farmer (3rd generation orchardist) advised keep sway chains as tight as possible so the tractor and implement move as a single, long piece of equipment. This is especially important working around trees because it is easy for a randomly swinging implement to gouge a tree.

 

[RoyJackson]

It will help if you raise the mower and snug up those chains. If there's too much tension on the chains when it's raised, estimate how much sway you have (when raised), lower it and snug the chains again until you get the minimum side to side sway...but you won't eliminate all of it.
This works with mowers...with ground engaging implements, you're better off with some sway.

 

[stoatspur]

The sway chains on my YM1810D did not have enough travel so as to prevent excessive side to side movement. Impossible to plow with. The lower lift arms were swaying unchecked and hitting the tires. I had to drill an additional hole in each lift arm to relocate the sway chain attaching bolts. Not a big deal. The chains supplied by Fredericks were obviously brand new, but I suspect they are for a full size tractor - not a CUT. Anyway, the lift arms are easy to remove. I used a 1/2" bit in a drill press to do the drilling. Worked out fine. It might have been easier to just remove a link from each sway chain. Would have done the same thing.

 

[pjbci]

Like roy said, raise it up then tighten. Depending on where they fasten to your tractor, you make break your chains when you raise lift if you tighten em with implement lowered.

 

[Ginormous]

Thanks everybody! I thought tighter would be better, but it's good to hear advice from people who have been down this road already. :thumbsup:

 

[clemsonfor]

Yea 6"s is way to much, i barely have maybe 10" at most if there all the way loose and i push the bush hog to the side. 6"s sounds like not much taken up.I have a ym2000. One of my shakles fell out while mowing as the pin got pulled and it fell out. I could not find anything local that would tread into the turnbuckle as i lost that end as well by not taking it off. Anyway when i ordered some stuff i just got one from hoye for like $20. Its much better than the original as it has a handle to turn like a big tractor. You could probly call up frederics and just request a new set and they will probly help you out.

 

[California]

Depending on where they fasten to your tractor, you make break your chains when you raise lift if you tighten em with implement lowered.

My Yanmars have the sway mount points in the same plane as the lift arm pivots. I think Ginormous' 2210 is the same. With this geometry, the chains shouldn't be tighter raised or lowered. But tightness should certainly be checked before use.

 

[Ginormous]

Yes, my sway chains are on the side toward the wheels and attach near the hub. I tightened things up by moving the end of the sway chain to the farther hole in each lift arms. I probably have them as tight as I can get it and still be able to put on an implement without adjusting them. sway of the finish mower is now around 3" total, i.e., about 1.5" to each side from center. I think that's good. I could definitely tighten it up more after attaching the mower, but I'm not sure it's worth the extra work every time.

 

[clemsonfor]

Yes, my sway chains are on the side toward the wheels and attach near the hub. I tightened things up by moving the end of the sway chain to the farther hole in each lift arms. I probably have them as tight as I can get it and still be able to put on an implement without adjusting them. sway of the finish mower is now around 3" total, i.e., about 1.5" to each side from center. I think that's good. I could definitely tighten it up more after attaching the mower, but I'm not sure it's worth the extra work every time.

OK so your saying you can tighten them down? Your suppose to loosen them and tighten them each time you change implements if you want zero movement. I try and shoot for an inch or so on the bush hog and maybe 2-3"s on my disk harrow. But you should be able to tighten them down so there is zero sway. This is for the reason Cali sighted. You dont want it to wander when you back up of flop around on the tail wheel or an incline and "sway " into a fence post or a tree or something your cutting close to. A ground engaging piece will allow some movement and decrease the forces on the parts with a piece in the ground as it can "bounce" or move to the side a bit. Also with wide pins you may have to tighten the arms down to keep them out of the tires if the sway it to much.

 

[winston1]

Another advantage of a quick hitch. Tighten the sway chains once and your done.

 

[Big Wave D]

If possible, add washers between implement and 3pt. lift arms on the implements pins, leaving just enough room for the retainer pin to fit. (Not always possible)

Taking out those couple of inches (if present) can sometimes make the difference for being able to get that last bit of side to side play out.

 

[Ginormous]

Another advantage of a quick hitch. Tighten the sway chains once and your done.

That does sound good. I remember discussing those last year. What's your favorite?

 

[winston1]

Not sure it would be classified as my favorite but I own a Harbor Freight quick hitch. I have re configured several implements to fit it. All category 1 3 point implements are not created equal. All that required a good bit of work but worth it to me. I garden, finish mow, rotary mow, use box and grader blades. Saying all that to say I change implements very regular so the quick and easy change is important to me. Anyone not changing implements often might not find the quick hitch as valuable. I have two implements I have not fitted to the quick hitch, that being a cement mixer and my Yanmar tiller. Those two items are used sparingly so just haven't done them. I seem to be infringing on your sway chain thread but gone this far, might as well attach a picture. This shows my quick hitch pretty good, I fabricated the top swivel which is used on most of my implements. Also note the bushings on the ends of my draw bar. I have these on most all my implements used with the quick hitch because the increased size fits better in the Harbor Freight quick hitch and takes out excessive play. As usual, I've probably rambled to long here. :ashamed:

 

[Ginormous]

Winston -- for some reason, your pic does not display when I click it... maybe just my computer?

 

[winston1]

Winston -- for some reason, your pic does not display when I click it... maybe just my computer?

Don't know, it shows on mine. Some computer guru will know.

 

[Ginormous]

OK so your saying you can tighten them down? Your suppose to loosen them and tighten them each time you change implements if you want zero movement.

I didn't realize you were supposed to tighten them down every time you attach a new implement. Good to know. I should have read my "Tractors for Dummies" book more closely.

I wasn't able to tighten them enough until I moved the attachment position to the farther hole on the lift arms. Now if I can just remember to tighten these and release the brake before I start going... :thumbsup:

 

[Pete Judd]

I always tighten mine down tight. A moving implement if it's heavy can sure bump the tractor around. I don't have a loader yet, and even with all the added weights on the front, the brush hog, if the chains aren't tight, can move the front of the tractor around unexpectedly.