Tiller Questions

[YanmarFever]

We have 12 pallets of yanmar rototiller parts here.
If anyone needs any parts other than tines they are welcome to take what they NEED for FREE. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

Theres only 1 catch, you have to pick them up in person (Oregon)
no ups. no US mail, ect... /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

www.ernies.net

 

[HGM]

Man, sounds like a great deal.... It would cost me a fortune to get them though /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif... Luckilly I dont think I really need anything right now, but parts are nice to have..

 

[ym2610]

Thanks everybody, I bought a RS1701 68", I hope its not to big for my 2610, man its big /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif, but I have my wheels as far out as they will go, so to cover my track I needed at least 66". Thanks Greg for the pics, looks like I might be missing a few pieces, I will call TT tomorrow and see if they have them, assuming mine and Gregs hooks up the same, the bracket on the tractor looks a little different. Thanks again for all the post. Robert

 

[HGM]

Just a thought, I plan on eliminating the bracket by getting a short enough top link. The bracket is a pain to install and remove whenever you wap an implement.. Its just two bolts, but I think you could live without it if you had the right sized link.

 

[YanmarFever]

I would keep the bkt. pain & all. I have used them both ways & the bkt tilts the tiller toward the tractor, which gives you more room to back up. Also it drops the tiller so that the rear flap lid opens right when you're not using the wheels.

We had to rototill a 15 acre field to put my trees in, so we used 3 tillers in all the combinations we could

we found that they till straighter with the wheels on, and go easy on the first pass.

Check the bearing on the side, just pop the 4 bolts and pry the cap off, fill the cap with axle grease and put it back on.

Check the gear box for oil, the single bolt on the back
Check the side chain for oil the bolt on the side, unscrew the bolt & pour oil in the top cap until it comes out the side.

With the tractor OFF, check all the tines to see if any are loose.

squirt some oil on the hinges of the rear flap, grease the wheels.

Happy tilling ! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[HGM]

I was wondering about the geometry... Guess that makes sense. Thanks, you saved me some money.. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[greatrandini]

not too big

 

[Suds]

Greg could you use hitch pins and lynch pins instead of the bolts
then it would be a quick deal to change.
Gary

 

[HGM]

Gary,
Thanks for the suggestion, seems like I have seen them used as well. Might do that instead... Wonder if anyone has personal experience with them?? Will it wallow out the top link holes on the tractor? /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

 

[buppy69]

I use pins instead of bolts for the top link bracket. No problem.

Eugene

 

[Mickey_Fx]

I use hitch pins and would have never given any thought to using bolts.

Don't know if it's universally true with these adaptors but mine has an adj bolt at the front, oriented vert. If adj correctly, when the top pin has been installed, the adj bolt serves as a stop so the lower pin hole is aligned properly for the lower pin to be inserted. No fuss, no muss.

Have hooked the tiller up both with and without the upper bracket. No way just an upper link will permit the tiller to rotate into it's proper position. This affects the rear wheels and rear flap position.

 

[HGM]

Good enough for me guys, appreciate the info....Mine came with bolts, so I never really thought about pins.. I'll get some though..

 

[Cord]

What ever you do, make sure it comes with the correct driveshaft! My tiller didn't come with the shaft, and after much hunting I still don't have the correct one. In my opinion with out the shaft the tiller is worthless.

 

[HGM]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( What ever you do, make sure it comes with the correct driveshaft! My tiller didn't come with the shaft, and after much hunting I still don't have the correct one. In my opinion with out the shaft the tiller is worthless. )</font>

Yea, it wont do much if you just drag it... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

I have heard of guys using a spreader shaft for theirs. I would like to change from the original myself because it doesnt have a shear bolt(that I can find)..In my mind that makes the PTO the weak point /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif, that scares me..

 

[buppy69]

I've used the driveshaft off of my finish mower on the tiller before with good results.

Eugene

 

[Cord]

My tiller has a 6 spline drive on the tiller end. I know that that it's just a bit smaller than 1-1/8", which would be standard for the older Ford tractors. This sucks because a adapter sleeve is just a bit too sloppy to be acceptable.