Tiller Questions

   / Tiller Questions #21  
We have 12 pallets of yanmar rototiller parts here.
If anyone needs any parts other than tines they are welcome to take what they NEED for FREE. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

Theres only 1 catch, you have to pick them up in person (Oregon)
no ups. no US mail, ect... /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

www.ernies.net
 
   / Tiller Questions #22  
Man, sounds like a great deal.... It would cost me a fortune to get them though /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif... Luckilly I dont think I really need anything right now, but parts are nice to have..
 
   / Tiller Questions
  • Thread Starter
#23  
Thanks everybody, I bought a RS1701 68", I hope its not to big for my 2610, man its big /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif, but I have my wheels as far out as they will go, so to cover my track I needed at least 66". Thanks Greg for the pics, looks like I might be missing a few pieces, I will call TT tomorrow and see if they have them, assuming mine and Gregs hooks up the same, the bracket on the tractor looks a little different. Thanks again for all the post. Robert
 
   / Tiller Questions #24  
Just a thought, I plan on eliminating the bracket by getting a short enough top link. The bracket is a pain to install and remove whenever you wap an implement.. Its just two bolts, but I think you could live without it if you had the right sized link.
 
   / Tiller Questions #25  
I would keep the bkt. pain & all. I have used them both ways & the bkt tilts the tiller toward the tractor, which gives you more room to back up. Also it drops the tiller so that the rear flap lid opens right when you're not using the wheels.

We had to rototill a 15 acre field to put my trees in, so we used 3 tillers in all the combinations we could

we found that they till straighter with the wheels on, and go easy on the first pass.

Check the bearing on the side, just pop the 4 bolts and pry the cap off, fill the cap with axle grease and put it back on.

Check the gear box for oil, the single bolt on the back
Check the side chain for oil the bolt on the side, unscrew the bolt & pour oil in the top cap until it comes out the side.

With the tractor OFF, check all the tines to see if any are loose.

squirt some oil on the hinges of the rear flap, grease the wheels.

Happy tilling ! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
   / Tiller Questions #26  
I was wondering about the geometry... Guess that makes sense. Thanks, you saved me some money.. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
   / Tiller Questions #28  
Greg could you use hitch pins and lynch pins instead of the bolts
then it would be a quick deal to change.
Gary
 
   / Tiller Questions #29  
Gary,
Thanks for the suggestion, seems like I have seen them used as well. Might do that instead... Wonder if anyone has personal experience with them?? Will it wallow out the top link holes on the tractor? /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif
 
   / Tiller Questions #30  
I use pins instead of bolts for the top link bracket. No problem.

Eugene
 

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