Tiller Tillers.. Which is better?

[Knight9]

Egon,

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Up here in the frozen north Farm king tillers are painted orange and are the Kubota official tiller. )</font>

Is that Kubota Canada standard or dealer standard? My dealer in Edmonton has an orange colored Italian brand that it always includes in its package deals. Are they bucking the Kubota standard?

Kevin

 

[Egon]

Perhaps my knowledge is out of date. At the time my tiller was purchased farm king was being used. I sometimes wonder about other attchments as metric and english threads seem mixed up. This could be the low bid type situation on a yearly or some such senario.

Just like who supplies Canadian Tire oil.

Egon

 

[Egon]

There was a recent thread on gear versa chain drive. I surely don't know which is better.

Get a tiller you like the looks of. Tillers are pretty simple cause even I can replace a chain. Parts can always be ordered.

Chances are if the tiller is used properly and not abused there will be little maintenance. Rocks are murder on them.

Egon

 

[chrisjbell]

Oh, no, not the chain vs. gear debate again! /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

I've seen this one a few times on the forum and there are benefits and drawbacks to both. I'll probably go for a chain drive, 'cause it is less expensive (generally) and replacing a chain isn't a huge trick. But that is just me...

 

[kensfarm]

I bought a 72 inch NH tiller when I purchased my TC35D.. they are built pretty rugged. I've put mine to the test.. it can turn un-broken ground into coffee grounds w/ 2-3 passes.. we're talking red-clay w/ rocks.. if the ground has been farmed.. one pass is all it takes. I also have a collection of "Tiller Stoppers".. pieces of pipes, solid bars, and old tractor & car parts that have locked-up the tiller to the point where it has even made the tractor engine cut-out. The worst was a solid rod.. about thickness of thumb.. it got wrapped around the tiller blades and was a bear to un-bend.. a few dinks to the inside housing was the only damage. I also till the gardens of 4 of my surrounding neighbors.. 2 are full time farmers.. they love how fluffy it makes the soil. My dad and another friend have both bought tillers (I'll check the makes) since they've seen how well mine works. Def. beats the heck out-of a walk behind.. but every tool has it's place.

NH Web site provides the below info:

Provides both primary and secondary tillage in one pass.

Available in four widths: 40", 52", 60" and 72".

Adjustable rear shield controls tilling action. The lower the shield, the more pulverized the soil. Raise the shield for a coarser soil texture.

Adjustable skid shoes control tilling depth to a present depth. (5" maximum.)

Can be off-set for tilling close to buildings or around obstacles.

540 rpm PTO is slip-clutch protected to prevent driveline component damage.

Convenient chain support makes adjustment or rear shielding quick and easy.

 

[theboman]

I have a First Choice that I got from Sweet Tractors and couldn't be happier. Looks great. Works great. Easy enough to hookup about like anything else with a 3pt hitch.
If I had to do it all over again I'd call Ken Sweet and buy a First Choice.

I'm sure all the dealers on the TBN are wonderful dealers, since here we talk about everybody's deals, dealers, etc.

 

[HayDR]

The NH is made by Maletti and is the same as Woods, Kubota & Bush Hog. As tillers go it a little on the light side. The Agratec is lighter than the NH but IMHO the Landpride, Sicma, Maschio, Befco, Curtis, Palladino, Sovema, Agric, Howard & CCM are heavier built than the NH tiller. The best walk behind tiller is a toy at best compared to a 3 point tiller. NH has over the years sold many of these tillers so the are fine for most household users.

 

[grandad]

I will second your observation about rocks. They will bind up the tines in an instant. For that reason, a slip clutch is probably more important than whether it's chain or gear drive. Lacking a slip clutch, you will either eat a lot of shear bolts or really beat up the tractor when encountering rocks. If I am not mistaken, the $1000 KK tillers sold at TSC do not have a slip clutch. Otherwise good units, but stock up on shear bolts if you've got any measure of rocks in your soil.

 

[IndianaPaul]

I've been running a BushHog RTS 74 for 2 years and used it pretty hard. Slip clutch is a must for me due to rocks, but all in all no major complaints. Did have a collar bearing go out while under warranty, but dealer had it back in operation within 24 hours and said it was not due to abuse, but appeared to be a bad bearing.

IndianaPaul

 

[HayDR]

Any 2 plate clutch that is not slipped once ever 6 months will not function at the proper torque settings. Moisture or the use of clutch discs with the improper PH will cause the clutch surfaces to rust and therefore not slip at the desired torque setting. Slipping the clutch displaces the surface tension and returns the clutch back to the safety device it was designed to be. IMO 99% of the plate clutch users never slip their clutches in reality they have little or no safety device. All tractors have internal safety devices incorporated in their PTO's with either clutches or relief valves for the HST style PTO transmissions. Most CUT's do not have the HP to damage a good tiller. It is quite different if a 70 HP tractor is used on a 35-50 HP tiller drive transmission. You need a properly functioning clutch or damage could occur quickly.