Tilt on a BX

sailnseagulls · Nov 26, 2006

I have a BX23 and for some time now I've liked the idea of a top and tilt set up for my tractor. Problem is, from what I've read, that there is no ready made solution for the sub-compact tractors. Additionally, I've read all the pros of have the double piloted check valve, which also isn't available from CCM to fit. I've finally decided to try a cylinder from Surplus Center for the Top Link which looks like a good fit, minus the check valve.
The side link looks like more of a challenge as the solid side is approx. 15.5 inches pin to pin. The adjustable side is about 12.5" closed and 18" open. I have not found a cylinder small enough that, when welded with the mounting clevis at each end, would work. By my measurements, the cylinder would have to be about 9.25" closed before the brackets were welded on.
So now my question. Is it possible or practical to get two cylinders, approx. the size of the solid link (15.5") , and hook them up on each side? This would allow me to use the boxblade level when each are drawn up or tilt to either side. I have rear remotes (2) now and would also have to add a third, which is supposed to be stackable. What do you think? Thanks for your thoughts.
Larry

8561 · Nov 26, 2006

Its possible. Henro has two tilt cylinders on his B2910. Look up his past threads, he has a very detailed thread with many, many photos showing his twin tilt link set-up.

MadReferee · Nov 27, 2006

Why not just replace the fixed link with the hydraulic link. That is what I did. At installation all you really have to do is make sure the lift arms are level when the tilt cylinder is half way extended. You will be surprised that how much tilt you will get with a 5" stroke cylinder. You really don't need a second cylinder, it's just overkill. BTW, I fabbed my own cylinder ends to match what was originally on the tractor.

MadReferee · Nov 27, 2006

One more thing. Mark, CCI, has posted that CCM will once again have cylinders with the check valves for sale in February 2007. It seems that they had issues with their supplier that have now been fixed and that a new orders have been placed with more reliable suppliers.

Henro · Nov 27, 2006

Sailnseagulls,

As 8561 mentioned I had similar concerns with my B2910 (which is a bit larger than the bx) and opted to go with two tilt cylinders. The main reason I needed to do this was so I did not lose 3PH lift. This is even a greater concern with the smaller BX.

If you can find that thread that 8561 referred to it will be worth a read I think.

You don't need check valves on the cylinders, you can use a prince valve with check valves built in and the net performance will be the same. You only lose the "burst hose protection" that check valves on the cylinders offer. More important to have this protection on a man lift than on a 3PH application.

I can tell you that it is nice having PO check valves, as they DO lock the cylinder in position.

It IS possible and very common to apply only one Tilt cylinder to a 3 PH. But if you want even tilt left and right, you have to use the adjustable lift rod, and extend it to equal the mid-stroke lenght of the hydraulic tilt cylinder that you choose. Net affect is that you lose lift on your 3PH. I don't think this this would be a satisfactory situation on a BX. I know on my BX I need every inch that I can get (and more, I drilled the clevis end of the lift rods so I could get a little more). (I have a BX2200 and the B2910)

As MadRef illustrated, a single tile cylinder works for a lot of people, expecially on larger tractors.

In my case, using dual tilt cylinders actually gave me a little more lift on my 3PH, if both cylinders are fully retracted. A second useful feature is if I either fully extend or fully retract the tilt cylinders, I don't have to guess and know for sure that the lower arms are level with respect to each other.

Sorry I don't have that thread that 8561 mentioned bookmarked or I would point you at it. Lost all my favorites when TBN transitioned to the new look.

Hope this helps...

sailnseagulls · Nov 27, 2006

Tim :

Thanks for the reply. I did read the post quite some time ago posted by Henro and it is what gave me the thought that I may be able to do the same thing to my tractor, even if it is smaller. It's the size of the tilt cylinder that is the problem.
Larry

sailnseagulls · Nov 27, 2006

Mad,

Thanks for posting your pics. I also believe that a 5" stroke would work perfectly well on one side. The problem I seem to run into is finding a cylinder small enough to fit the BX23 side link. I would need a cylinder in the range of 9" closed in order to fit the ends on (allowing for the same size clevis as the factory links). As I can't locate one this small that would do the job, my second option was to replace both sides, which when retracted would be the same as the fixed link and extended would create the tilt.
I saw that CCM is getting a new supplier but haven't seen any info on getting smaller sizes than already available. When I called a few months ago, I was told they were not available.
Larry

sailnseagulls · Nov 28, 2006

Henro,
I just typed a long reply and apparently wasn't fast enough...message lost !
Thank you for your reply. I did read your post but need to find it to refresh my memory.
My thoughts were since I don't have enough room for a cylinder big enough to extend it halfway to get tilt both ways, that I could create the same effect by getting two cylinders the same length as the fixed cylinder closed. I then could extend either to get tilt in that direction.
I hadn't thought about the lift as you mentioned which is important on the BX.
Would it be wise to get acylinders slightly shorter ( an inch?) than the factory link to get extra lift? I'm still learning the dynamics of the 3 point system.
Also, I'm probably too late to get the Prince valve as I have already installed the Kubota remote kit with two valves. I can easily add a third, but without check valves. Actually for the small amount of work I need to do, I'm not sure how much the lack of check valves will affect me. Of course, in the best of all worlds I would like to have them. So what do you think? Is it worth the trouble and will it accomplish what I'm trying to do?
Thanks, Larry

JSUnlimited · Nov 28, 2006

Maybe this post will help,

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/customization/74761-tc24da-top-tilt.html

Henro · Nov 28, 2006

sailnseagulls said:
Would it be wise to get cylinders slightly shorter ( an inch?) than the factory link to get extra lift? I'm still learning the dynamics of the 3 point system...

...Actually for the small amount of work I need to do, I'm not sure how much the lack of check valves will affect me.

Thanks, Larry

I would suspect that if you compare the length of the fixed lift rod to the adjustable one, you will find that the mid point of the adjustable one is the same lenght as the fixed lift rod. If this is the case, then you could have two tilt cylinders that were the same lenght(when extended) as the adjustable lift rod at its mid-point length, and still have the same tilt capability as the original design offers. But in addition, you would have more lift available, as when both cylinders were retracted, they would be shorter than the original mechanical lift rods were. This is what I did on my B2910.

Now for a potential problem. You may not be able to find cylinders that have the stroke/lenght you need. I know it was a bit difficult to get what I wanted for my B2910, and the b2910 is a bit larger than the bx. It has been a while now though, and I just have this lasting impression, for what it is worth.

There is a time/benefit relationship with PO check valves I think. The shorter the job, the less important they are in my estimation. I mean, leakdown is a function of how tight your control valve is. If you happen to have one that lets little fluid leak through, when the valve is centered, then the issue is smaller than if you have a control valve that leaks more. Since you already have your control valves...and probably cannot find a short cylinder with PO check valves on it like the CCM ones have (those cylinders are too long for the BX I am almost certain) why not try what you have and see if for your needs some kind of check valve is needed on not.

I guess what I am trying to say is if you were doing 15 minutes of work EVERY day it would be one thing, as compared to doing 12 hours of work one day, and not using the T&T until a month later when you did 12 hours of work again in one day. Leak down during exteded use periods would require repeated readjustment, while leakdown during a 15 minute period might not be noticed at all.

Hope this makes some sense and helps a little...