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#41  
cmhyland said:
Kevin,
On the steel roofing... Is that the standing seam metal? If so you can get that stuff in lots of nice colors... My neighbor did an outstanding barn with it and the roof is green... Really nice. I think it runs about $300 a sq. But it's good for like 75 years.

Metal Shingles - Steel Shingles from Metal Roofing Wholesalers

Copper really ages nicely... I'm going to put up a tastefully sized Coupola with a copper roof and weathervane...

Take a look...

Country Cupolas - The Country Gentleman ® - An American Tradition.

When I say tastefully sized, of corse I mean approved by my wife...

Regards,
Chris

Chris:

The roof is just plain grain crib on purlins set 12" o.c. no colors on the roof for me. The finished building will be minimalistic. In fact the siding will be left to weather at least for the first year and the hardware, currently unproteced steel and cast, will be heated and beeswax applied, then allowed to rust over time and then oiled .

While the siding is weathering, I will decide on the final finish as I see how it ages. If it ages well then it will be oilded to maintain it and I might choose waste motor oil for the oil. Of corse I will test peices before I commit. If not it will be painted barn red such as yours. My only concern is UV protecting the siding. I'll watch it closely and make sure it doesn't get any dry rot or sunburn.

I have been contemplating a cupola myself and still might. At one point I almost decided to put a 48" square tower on the front rafters flush with the front wall but my time in finishing will be hard enough to come by let alone a custom timber accessory such as a tower. There will be a 4"x4" oak lifting corbel/jib above the loft door that I will cut myself. I had the framer throw in a bunch of 10 and 12' - 4"x4"'s for finishing detail. (see the attached "sketchup' rendering attached). Anyway back to the cupola, I saved this link Cupola with copper roof he appears to be doing special requests at decent prices but I would shy away from his economy copper roof as it is just copper sheets folded and attached with copper nails.

Regards,
Kevin
 

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   / Timber Frame Tractor Home #42  
Thanks for posting this. It's great to see some timberframing going on. The Soben frame is overbuilt, but it feels exactly right when you stand inside it, so I expect you will really like the finished inside.

Just a note, if you've got blind holes, don't put oil on the pegs before you drive them. The pegs are red oak rather than white oak because red oak is long grain porus and will allow the air to escape as you drive them in. If the holes aren't blind, It doesn't really matter.

If this project gets anyone in the urge to do some timberframing, you don't need to start this big. Take a look at my old thread here:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/38774-tiny-timber-frame-wood-shelter.html

Cliff
 
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  • Thread Starter
#43  
Cliff_Johns said:
Thanks for posting this. It's great to see some timberframing going on. The Soben frame is overbuilt, but it feels exactly right when you stand inside it, so I expect you will really like the finished inside.

Just a note, if you've got blind holes, don't put oil on the pegs before you drive them. The pegs are red oak rather than white oak because red oak is long grain porus and will allow the air to escape as you drive them in. If the holes aren't blind, It doesn't really matter.

If this project gets anyone in the urge to do some timberframing, you don't need to start this big. Take a look at my old thread here:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/38774-tiny-timber-frame-wood-shelter.html

Cliff


Cliff:

I remember your wood shed thread; nice job. Didn't you take your TF course down in Blissfield, MI.?

Thanks for the tip on blind pegs, I'll keep an eye out.

Regards,
Kevin
 
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#45  
Well, it was another full day on the barn, out at day break finishing up some undone work.

Started by pulling the lean-to sills so I gould drive the last 2 pegs. Then reset them and finsished up the the tin. The lean-to sills are wrapped as they will only be semi-protected. This is all exposed and will be seen.

Kevin
 

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   / Timber Frame Tractor Home
  • Thread Starter
#46  
Then it was on to raising the lean-to. This was lighter work to start but a little more time consuming as it had to be put together while standing.

Pic1 shows the end wall up and the plate being readied for lift. Pic 2 shows the plate in place. This was lifted with only two people. Me hoisting and the other back and forth on ladders positioning. It took everything I had to do it. Just carring the timber on the FEL almost tipped the tractor and two carrying from fell to horses the comment was made it was like carrying a tree.

Kevin
 

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   / Timber Frame Tractor Home
  • Thread Starter
#47  
Figured the loft joists would be the next logical choice as it will give a good platform for raising and setting the rafters. After hoisting the lean-to plate neither of us had much left so this was a chore. The joists probably came in at 75 lbs each and since there is no electricty at the barn they had to be carried to the garage have the ends squared and cut to length, then carried back and walked up a ladder and driven home.

Pic one shows the joists started. Pic 2 and 3 shows em all in and a view from above. The two uprights you see on top of the plate are the loft door framing as I was trying to get a sense of overall hieght.

Kevin
 

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   / Timber Frame Tractor Home
  • Thread Starter
#48  
Here are some shots of how it looks tonight. Supposed to be 54 tomorrow but a chance of rain so I might take the day off and let the knees rest.

Kevin
 

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   / Timber Frame Tractor Home #49  
KHD -

Wow - that barn is going to be standing 300 years from now. Nice job!!! It is going to be beautiful!!!
 
   / Timber Frame Tractor Home #50  
dillo99 said:
Wow - that barn is going to be standing 300 years from now. Nice job!!! It is going to be beautiful!!!

The key to having a barn still standing after 300 years is keeping a good roof on it and having a dry foundation. The key to the dry foundation is to build it right and put it in the right place (well drained). The key to keeping a good roof on a barn over hundreds of years is to make the barn so sweet that future owners will sell the shirt off their back to keep that roof in good shape. Looks like this barn will meet these criteria.

Cliff
 

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