Time for a new roof on the barn, metal or asphalt shingle?

[BrokeFarmerJohn]

I take it some of you haven't priced metal roofing lately.

BrokeFarmerJohn, when you get quotes, be sure to get specifics. Metal roofing and siding comes in different gages (thicknesses), with 29 guage being the thinnest. The lower the gage #, the thicker the metal and of course the price goes up. 26 gage is what I would go with. Anything thicker is commercial quality and price prohibitive for your needs.

If you go with metal roofing and leave the shingles on, I would go with Galvalume or white to reflect the sun's rays resulting in less heat buildup. Personally I think white would look better on your barn roof. Nice barn, by the way. Also you wouldn't want the metal laid directly on the shingles. Furring strips should be nailed down first.

I believe the sheet said 29 gauge for the $6500 quote.

He had screws that had metal caps over the washer that keeps the washer out of the weather so they warrant the screws for 40 years also.

I think standing seam is the newest style with no exposed screws but what I was quoted was not that, I don’t think this guy offers that.

 

[3Ts]

Since you already have leaking issues, I would strip it down to the plywood or OSB. I would do a complete inspection of the decking. I would use 30 pound paper and all brand new flashing. Then shingle it in architectural shingles using 1 1/2 inch nails or longer. Nail length is very important. Nails are much better then staples. Night and day better!!!

I agree with Eddie, except that since you have leaks, instead of felt paper, i'd use the storm shield peel & stick material. It will seal around nails and small penetrations and will self heal to a limited extent. It's also a lot more expensive material wise, but should eliminate repairs for a long time. It's what I use. The down side is in the summer time and it's hot on the roof, the peel & stick will ooze if you step on it. Here in Texas in August I had to be done on the roof shortly after 10 am and could get back on late afternoon.

 

[BrokeFarmerJohn]

How big is the barn ? The Hi Rib standard roof metal is around $3 a linear foot. There is alot of labor since it is a Gambrel style roof. I wouldn't put a metal roof over shingles...thats just me though. What kind of decking is on the roof to secure the metal ? You want a nice smooth surface to lay the metal on otherwise you could get leaks.

Main part of the barn that needs the roof is 25x40 maybe, it has a lean to and 3 stalls off the side and back that have metal. $3 a linear foot I think is in the ball park of the quote.

The decking is 2x12s the entire length of the barn with no spaces in between them. It’s solid, very well built barn, upper section is a hay loft.

 

[BrokeFarmerJohn]

I don't think I would want to do that roof in metal. I hate what the flashing will look like with the different angles in pitch.

Where are the leaks? most of the time it's around whatever sticks through the roof. Then it's in a valley. Since I don't see any valleys, is it around the flashing?

Since you already have leaking issues, I would strip it down to the plywood or OSB. I would do a complete inspection of the decking. I would use 30 pound paper and all brand new flashing. Then shingle it in architectural shingles using 1 1/2 inch nails or longer. Nail length is very important. Nails are much better then staples. Night and day better!!!

You might be able to see it in the pic, the upper section of roofing where the black shingles are (guy replaced bad shingle with white shingles and painted them black lol) if you go strait up from where the power comes in at on the upper section.

Nothing penetrates the roof in that area.

 

[BrokeFarmerJohn]

I like the look and durability of metal. We have metal roofs that are still good after 60 years. Even with some rust, they are still water proof. With a red barn I can only see black or white [or silver] and I agree that a light roof is best for reflecting heat.

As for siding, what about a coat of paint to buy time on that?

The siding on the barn is falling apart and is junk but I can get more time out of it, I believe in my little barn I have a few sheets of the stuff, is like compressed composite stuff, it’s just swelled, curled and deteriorated in various lower sections of the barn most exposed.

I would love to put brand new dark red or barn red metal on the sides as well but sadly with the tractor payment, house payment, taxes etc..... I don’t want to have to sell off stuff because I am wore too thin financially. The roof would just be one of those things I just need to bite the bullet and get it done before I damage the barn.

One guy patched it and said I might get another year out of the shingle, that was two years ago lol and it’s starting to drip again, enough to stain the wood, no rot yet.

 

[Stimw]

For starters you need to post how many squares the estimate is for. That is the only way to compare prices.
I am waiting on a roofer to install a metal roof now, signed a contract and gave a deposit.
I need 38 squares and have gotten 4 estimates, 3 in the $12,000. range and the one I am using $10,000.
I am getting Galvalume installed over (not leaking) old shingles with synthetic underlay and new ridge vents.
The roofing company has the metal forming machines and makes their own panels in their factory.
They have been in business for many years and a friend knows the family.
At one point I was pricing the roll formers! I like doing things myself!
Talking to the guy about that he said he had to get his machines Certified by the State of Florida and the Cert and Testing cost him over $11,000. ! (Of the Lawyers, By the Lawyers and For the Lawyers!)
I priced just the metal and for 29ga Galvalume it was $1.48 a running foot (1' x 3') cut to the inch.
Also, a friend of a friend just now got her roof replaced that got damaged by a tree falling last fall during the hurricane!
Roofers are still busy and my wait time will be 5 weeks.

 

[747driver]

Main part of the barn that needs the roof is 25x40 maybe, it has a lean to and 3 stalls off the side and back that have metal. $3 a linear foot I think is in the ball park of the quote.

The decking is 2x12s the entire length of the barn with no spaces in between them. It’s solid, very well built barn, upper section is a hay loft.

You are a young guy ! You want that barn to last so don't skimp on doing it cheap or wrong. Is there a chance you could take the shingles off yourself and then have a metal roofer install the metal ? With a Gambrel roof you have to get those 2 changes of pitch on both sides put down right and flashed properly or it will leak. I have used Architectural style shingles which last along time. Put down the Grace Ice and Water shield first.

 

[YLee Kioti]

How many friends/contacts do you have in the area or connections with any schools that have a building trades, for getting young students.
Weekend BBQ to feed the gang and have all the shingles off. Then the contractor can come in a install the panels.
I'd opt for removing shingles. The pitch change is not so radical and the flashing will provide a good transition. Plus the upper panels would have an inch or two overhang.
Plus one point to consider have you spoken with your insurance agent? Metal roofs tend lower premiums over the composite shingles.

As for the siding.
How about a power wash and then using a LVHP spray gun. Use a good primer and then the classic barn red.
Fresh look and spiffy should look beautimous for any years, especially with the galvalume panels. A touch of classics and a touch of new. :thumbsup:

 

[BrokeFarmerJohn]

How many friends/contacts do you have in the area or connections with any schools that have a building trades, for getting young students.
Weekend BBQ to feed the gang and have all the shingles off. Then the contractor can come in a install the panels.
I'd opt for removing shingles. The pitch change is not so radical and the flashing will provide a good transition. Plus the upper panels would have an inch or two overhang.
Plus one point to consider have you spoken with your insurance agent? Metal roofs tend lower premiums over the composite shingles.

As for the siding.
How about a power wash and then using a LVHP spray gun. Use a good primer and then the classic barn red.
Fresh look and spiffy should look beautimous for any years, especially with the galvalume panels. A touch of classics and a touch of new. :thumbsup:

There is a career center about 20 mins away with a building trades class, I graduated from that career center in the HVAC trade. That’s a pretty good idea if they are willing to come out, roof is kinda steep for kids not knowing what they are doing though.

I could rent a dumpster, idk if keeping nails off the ground would be realistic, if they fall off the back side they could find their way to the hoof of the cattle.

I think removing shingle is looking more like the route to go.

I am leaning more towards standing seem also.

 

[Oldoak]

Be careful of your "liability" should someone get seriously hurt when having other than a professional contractor who should have their own liability insurance coverage for their employees.