Time to change the clutch

[mffarmall]

To get the throw out bearing off I need to take off the seat. How?

 

[Rich Waugh]

By seat do you mean the clutch release fork? If so, I think you just drive out the roll pin that retains it. Use a new roll pin when you replace it. While you're at it, replace the roll pins in the entire clutch linkage, using either spiral wrapped pins or nesting two regular roll pins inside each other for extra strength. The OEM roll pins are somewhat notorious for shearing off. If that happens on the ones inside the bell housing you'll be splitting the tractor to replace a ten cent part and you won't be a bit happy. Do it now and sleep better at night.

 

[mffarmall]

I found out how to take it off. When I put everything back together what should be gap between the pto plates be. I should be measuring where the bolts are? Also for the arm bolts. What should the gap be here. Understand they should all be the same. I have a 6.948mm and a 6.985mm gap on the other two. Do I need to be in the hundredths or thousandths.
?
Should my clutch peddle adjustment be to shorten or lengthen the travel distance? This is one of those that I can get all turned around on.

 

[mffarmall]

Hey Rich,

No I meant the throwout bearing sits on the spacer that the forks push forward and the spring pulls back. I did not see the spring. Once I got it everything came out. easy.
Does the spring burn out. It looks good to me. I was not able to pull it open easily by hand.

 

[greg_g]

Center gap I believe is 1.2mm. Finger height is measured from the face of the PTO pressure plate (flywheel face). All three should be 96.8mm (+/- 0.1mm). Then use the external pull rod adjustment to obtain the 2.5mm (+/- 0.5mm) gap between the finger tips and the vertical face of the TOB

//greg//

 

[mffarmall]

Got everything back together and set up. When setting the tob distance: problem: The pin that holds the clutch arm is popping out the top and bottom. When I push the arm and the tob touches the clutch the arm slips forward and the tob goes back into original position. It seems like the clutch arm is stripped and when it gets presure against it the tob fork behind give and pop back.

Do I need to take it apart and and take the tob, clutch arm out and look it over. Or is it probably just the pin in the clutch arm broke and I just need to get it out and put in a new one?

 

[Rich Waugh]

Try replacing the pin first, using two nested pins as I mentioned in an earlier post. If that doesn't fix it, you'll probably have to tear it down and find the root cause of the problem.

 

[SPIKER]

Those PINS (dual nested roll pins that hold the clutch throwout bearing fork) often shear and the clutch is not depressed. It has been a COMMON failure & can be pain to fix as you can't get into there very well to see much of anything with the tractor assembled...

Mark

 

[mffarmall]

So take it apart and look through it? The pins stripping out would probably be a good reason that it would move the TOB until their was pressure pushing back. And then it would not work again.

I tried to get at the pin but the pin is covered by the frame. Any ideas? What part is the most common problem?

 

[Rich Waugh]

The most common problem is the roll pins shearing in any of several different places in the clutch linkage - anywhere from the clutch pedal to the throwout bearing fork. This is precisely why is suggested in post #22 on Dec. 26th that you should replace ALL the roll pins while you had it open to get at them. Now you may be having to split the tractor to replace that ten cent roll pin you can't get at with it all together. Hopefully, it is one you can get at without having to split the tractor again.

I can't say exactly which roll pin has sheared - you have to examine each point in the linkage that is secured by a roll pin to determine which one (or more) has failed. You need someone else to push the clutch pedal while you closely observe each linkage connection to see which one is not transmitting the movement of the pedal to the next stage of the whole linkage. You may need to use a magnifying glass or scribe marks to see where a linkage arm is not fully turning the shaft it is connected to by the roll pin.

You can also use a dab from of those pen-type white-out things typists use to correct mistakes. You put a dot of white-out at the intersection of the arm and the shaft and let it dry for a couple of minutes, then push the clutch pedal down all the way. If the joint is slipping due to a broken roll pin, the white-out stuff will crack when the two parts don't move together, telling you that pin has sheared. That's about the only way I now to do it without a helper.

Good luck with it!