Time to re-deck my trailer

[EddieWalker]

I bought this trailer brand new about five years ago. The wood on it was called "wolmanized" but I don't know how to spell it. The dealer said it was a type of pressure treated wood. I don't know.

It's a basic 16 ft trailer that I bought for $900. Used ones were almost that much, and they all needed tires and wood. I thought I was doing pretty good buying new, but here I am replacing the wood.

As you can see in the first picture, it's rotted all the way through in the back. There was a single torx screw though the middle of each 2x8 in three different locations. The ends are wedged into the angle iron at both ends. I was able to unscrew all of the torx screws except three. I cut the piece of angle iron off with my grinder and lifted the boards out. Of the three that still had the torx screw in them, only one held. I had to use a crow bar to get the wood off on that one. The others just fell apart, but a few came out whole.

The wood was the wrong size. It should have had 2x10' in my opinion. Eight 2x10s fit in there perfectly.

After getting the wood out and cutting off the stuck torx screws, I cleaned up the metal with a steel brush in my angle grinder. Then I painted it three times with frame undercoating. Everywhere that the wood will come into contact, is where I focused my attention.

With 2x10's going on, would you use a single carriage bolt at every other cross member or two bolts? I'm thinking two would be allot better and eliminate cupping.

Thanks,
Eddie

 

[gordyy]

I agree with you on the two afterall its just the time the bolts are cheap
and I always hate the uneven cupping you get with a deck that only has one screw or bolt per member.
you have more trouble securing something that rocks over something that sits tight

 

[mjncad]

I bought this trailer brand new about five years ago. The wood on it was called "wolmanized" but I don't know how to spell it. The dealer said it was a type of pressure treated wood. I don't know.

Thanks,
Eddie

I think the dealer lied to you Eddie as the wood looks more "Wormized" to me.

 

[Sackett2]

I have almost the same trailer as you. Mine was decked with pine, painted (?) black. it lasted about 8-9 years.
We removed the deck and replaced it with 8' 2x6 (or 2x8's.ll check tomorrow) of pressure treated fir, butting the two ends in the middle with a steel plate over the ends. this way if a board rots or breaks, we now can replace one board.
We also put 1/4 inch gaps between each board to allow the water to run thru. A needed feature in Oregon. we (generally) doubled screwed them. it looks a lot nicer and we figure it will last 15-20 years now; (at least the deck)
I'll snap a picture tomorrow.

 

[Gizmo2]

The wood was the wrong size. It should have had 2x10' in my opinion. Eight 2x10s fit in there perfectly.

With 2x10's going on, would you use a single carriage bolt at every other cross member or two bolts? I'm thinking two would be allot better and eliminate cupping.

Thanks,
Eddie

I would probably use smaller size lumber. You get less deformity per board as they dry out. Installing the boards with the bark side up should prevent board cupping, the less bolts per end the better.

 

[Egon]

I'm thinking two would be allot better and eliminate cupping.

If the grain of the wood is oriented properly cupping could be minimized while only using one bolt. I'd use two though.

I'm going through the same process with my trailer right now.

 

[tommu56]

I would probably use smaller size lumber. You get less deformity per board as they dry out. Installing the boards with the bark side up should prevent board cupping, the less bolts per end the better.

What he said and put the bark side up like a deck.

I have 2x6's ptsyp rated for ground contact some pt isn't rated for ground contact and won't last as long.
My bigger trailer put the 2 screws per board about 1" from edges and like yours I have a piece of flat stock on the back edge but I bolted it in between the boards to keep from splitting the ends out.
The front is ducked under a welded in piece of flat stock.

After I cut the rear steel loose friend said why didn't I bow the boards back under the flat stock on the front and back and save me some work. Hind site is always 20/20.

tom

 

[Bird]

The wood on it was called "wolmanized" but I don't know how to spell it. The dealer said it was a type of pressure treated wood.

You spelled it right, and yep, it's a type of pressure treated wood. You can find lots of information at google.com.

 

[weldingisfun]

The Torx head screws are not structural. All they do is hold the deck boards in place to prevent them from bouncing up and down on the crossmembers and from shifting front to rear and sideways. Egon and Gizmo2 have it right about the cupping. If you use carriage bolts be sure to use lock nuts.
I also agree with Gizmo2 on the board size. The 2X8 is the better way to go for cost as well as warping. If a 16' board wants to warp there isn't a whole lot you can do to stop it. I have a 20' trailer with one board that is perfectly straight for 18'. The last 2 feet has warped to the left about 1.5".

 

[Diamondpilot]

Next time Eddie you do not need to cut off the back piece of steel. Just cut the old boards between 2 braces making sure to watch for wires.

When its time to re-deck put one end in the cup and use a scrape piece of 2x4 about 1' long or so place on the front axle. Have a big buddy, about 200#, stand on the other end then knock out the 2x4 you place on the front axle out with a sledge. You can re-deck one in 15 minutes this way. Just got done doing one of my customers about 2 months back. By the way his had 2x12's.

Chris

 

[EddieWalker]

If you use carriage bolts be sure to use lock nuts.

Thank you everyone for your comments and suggestions. I already bought the 2x10's, so that's what I'll use. Eight of them fit perfectly. I also bought the bolts, washers and nuts, but I didn't buy locking nuts. I never even thought about it, but now realize that was a mistake on my part. I'm going to change that, and go buy some plastic crown nuts, or whatever they are called.

Thank you, it's the simple things that usually come back to bight me in the rear end.

Another thought and question. The wires go through holes in the frame. They are just laying there in those holes without any groments or protection. I'm thinking that a shot of silicone in each hole to hold the wires in place would be a good, long term idea to prevent a wire for eventually wearing off the plastic sleeve and shorting itself out. Does anybody disagree with this?

Thank you,
Eddie

 

[Bedlam]

On the wire situation can you get some covering on them for chaffing? Like some fuel line slit legnthwise? Or even som old garden hose?Just an idea. I have always wondered why event the best quality trailers dont have some sort of protection at that point.

 

[BillP603]

Intstead of getting locknuts a few drops of loc-tite (I use blue on everything) in the nut will do. The lumber will shrink after a few months sitting in the sun, so either way tighten them again at the end of the summer.

 

[Renze]

Another thought and question. The wires go through holes in the frame. They are just laying there in those holes without any groments or protection. I'm thinking that a shot of silicone in each hole to hold the wires in place would be a good, long term idea to prevent a wire for eventually wearing off the plastic sleeve and shorting itself out. Does anybody disagree with this?

This sounds odd to me, and its certainly a risk to short-circuiting. In my previous job at a trailer manufacturer, we used to weld a 6mm rod from back to front underneath the crossmembers, then all wires were bundled together and strapped along this rod with zip-ties.
This is a cheap and quick way to install wires without the risk of wearing off the plastic, even better than putting all the cables loose into a hollow pipe or frame member.

When there is something wrong with the wiring, its quick and easy to access and repair.

 

[radioman]

Eddie- I personally hate any wires going into tubes without protection. Had a camper with shorted out electric brakes and found wire was chafed thru to the frame. Put the wire on top the tube instead. Same thing with my NEW 16 ft trailer. The taillight for some reason wasn't working right and found the metal tube got bent up and cut the wire. With this trailer I just cut the bad part out and put a good dose of electrical tape where it goes into the tube for better protection. I really dint think they protect all that much except prevent it from looping down too low and get caught on something. I would NOT silicone the ends up as there would be no place for any moisture to dissipate from condensation or rain getting in somewhere. That the last thing I would want, having the tubes corrode or rust out and having sharp edges to cut the wires, causing shorts.

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

Eddie, you did right putting the 2 X 10's in place. I had to do that a number of years ago. $200 worth of wood. Ouch.

Wonder what I could easily apply to help it last that won't get slippery when wet?

 

[Egon]

Wonder what I could easily apply to help it last that won't get slippery when wet?

Paint the deck and then spread sand over the wet paint.

 

[JB4310]

Yup, mine is the same way with a 2x4 down the middle to make up the difference, My deck is still good but looking at it I can imagine it will be a PITN to redeck, mine is 20 ft.

No question 2 fasteners per board every 2nd cross member, don't know if you need nylock nuts but I guess it's better than just plain old lock washers. What size carriage bolts are you using?

JB.

 

[two_bit_score]

Next time Eddie you do not need to cut off the back piece of steel. Just cut the old boards between 2 braces making sure to watch for wires.

When its time to re-deck put one end in the cup and use a scrape piece of 2x4 about 1' long or so place on the front axle. Have a big buddy, about 200#, stand on the other end then knock out the 2x4 you place on the front axle out with a sledge. You can re-deck one in 15 minutes this way. Just got done doing one of my customers about 2 months back. By the way his had 2x12's.

Chris

That sounds simple but I can't visualize it.

 

[2manyrocks]

to try to answer the last question, the scrap 2x4 is there to create a fulcum point over the axle so the wood can be bent and slipped into the channel that holds it in place. Then the scap is removed.

Will it affect the structural integrity of the trailer to drill holes for all those carriage bolts and are they necessary? Are they corrosion resistant fasteners or is the new PT treatment going to eat them up? I don't recall seeing anything holding the wood decks on most utility trailers except for being held in at the front and the back by some steel angle. The width of the boards wedge them in place from side to side.