Time to re-deck my trailer

[EddieWalker]

If you use carriage bolts be sure to use lock nuts.

Thank you everyone for your comments and suggestions. I already bought the 2x10's, so that's what I'll use. Eight of them fit perfectly. I also bought the bolts, washers and nuts, but I didn't buy locking nuts. I never even thought about it, but now realize that was a mistake on my part. I'm going to change that, and go buy some plastic crown nuts, or whatever they are called.

Thank you, it's the simple things that usually come back to bight me in the rear end.

Another thought and question. The wires go through holes in the frame. They are just laying there in those holes without any groments or protection. I'm thinking that a shot of silicone in each hole to hold the wires in place would be a good, long term idea to prevent a wire for eventually wearing off the plastic sleeve and shorting itself out. Does anybody disagree with this?

Thank you,
Eddie

 

[Bedlam]

On the wire situation can you get some covering on them for chaffing? Like some fuel line slit legnthwise? Or even som old garden hose?Just an idea. I have always wondered why event the best quality trailers dont have some sort of protection at that point.

 

[BillP603]

Intstead of getting locknuts a few drops of loc-tite (I use blue on everything) in the nut will do. The lumber will shrink after a few months sitting in the sun, so either way tighten them again at the end of the summer.

 

[Renze]

Another thought and question. The wires go through holes in the frame. They are just laying there in those holes without any groments or protection. I'm thinking that a shot of silicone in each hole to hold the wires in place would be a good, long term idea to prevent a wire for eventually wearing off the plastic sleeve and shorting itself out. Does anybody disagree with this?

This sounds odd to me, and its certainly a risk to short-circuiting. In my previous job at a trailer manufacturer, we used to weld a 6mm rod from back to front underneath the crossmembers, then all wires were bundled together and strapped along this rod with zip-ties.
This is a cheap and quick way to install wires without the risk of wearing off the plastic, even better than putting all the cables loose into a hollow pipe or frame member.

When there is something wrong with the wiring, its quick and easy to access and repair.

 

[radioman]

Eddie- I personally hate any wires going into tubes without protection. Had a camper with shorted out electric brakes and found wire was chafed thru to the frame. Put the wire on top the tube instead. Same thing with my NEW 16 ft trailer. The taillight for some reason wasn't working right and found the metal tube got bent up and cut the wire. With this trailer I just cut the bad part out and put a good dose of electrical tape where it goes into the tube for better protection. I really dint think they protect all that much except prevent it from looping down too low and get caught on something. I would NOT silicone the ends up as there would be no place for any moisture to dissipate from condensation or rain getting in somewhere. That the last thing I would want, having the tubes corrode or rust out and having sharp edges to cut the wires, causing shorts.

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

Eddie, you did right putting the 2 X 10's in place. I had to do that a number of years ago. $200 worth of wood. Ouch.

Wonder what I could easily apply to help it last that won't get slippery when wet?

 

[Egon]

Wonder what I could easily apply to help it last that won't get slippery when wet?

Paint the deck and then spread sand over the wet paint.

 

[JB4310]

Yup, mine is the same way with a 2x4 down the middle to make up the difference, My deck is still good but looking at it I can imagine it will be a PITN to redeck, mine is 20 ft.

No question 2 fasteners per board every 2nd cross member, don't know if you need nylock nuts but I guess it's better than just plain old lock washers. What size carriage bolts are you using?

JB.

 

[two_bit_score]

Next time Eddie you do not need to cut off the back piece of steel. Just cut the old boards between 2 braces making sure to watch for wires.

When its time to re-deck put one end in the cup and use a scrape piece of 2x4 about 1' long or so place on the front axle. Have a big buddy, about 200#, stand on the other end then knock out the 2x4 you place on the front axle out with a sledge. You can re-deck one in 15 minutes this way. Just got done doing one of my customers about 2 months back. By the way his had 2x12's.

Chris

That sounds simple but I can't visualize it.

 

[2manyrocks]

to try to answer the last question, the scrap 2x4 is there to create a fulcum point over the axle so the wood can be bent and slipped into the channel that holds it in place. Then the scap is removed.

Will it affect the structural integrity of the trailer to drill holes for all those carriage bolts and are they necessary? Are they corrosion resistant fasteners or is the new PT treatment going to eat them up? I don't recall seeing anything holding the wood decks on most utility trailers except for being held in at the front and the back by some steel angle. The width of the boards wedge them in place from side to side.