TheTrailerGuy
Bronze Member
Hot dipped galvanized bolts and nuts have a different thread than zinc or regular bolts. That's why your aviation nuts wouldn't thread on without spinning the carriage bolt in the wood.
Yes, galvanized is better if you can get it.
Without that little metal cap on the end of the boards, many people end up catching buckets or attachments on the ends of the boards and splintering their floors up. Good ACQ treated top grade SYP lumber is your best protection against rot. If put in place properly, it will easily last 10 years or more with no maintenance, and with a little water treating starting 12 months from the date of install, once a year, it could last for 20 or more years.
Sorry, but i keep missing the guys while they are flooring a trailer. Here is a shot of a nice 20' 9,990lb GVWR M/T tilt i sold to a man from Adair iowa. By installing board caps after the fact, it actually allows us to press the last two boards into place, which squeezes is all in nice and tight. No outer scrap steel spacers needed.

Here is a shot of the front board cap bolted on with 1/4" Type Torx floor bolts.

Just mark on your side frame where the crossmembers are and then after getting all of the planking cut and fitted nice and tight, simply snap a chalk line across on your reference marks, drill the planks and cross members and install two bolts per plank across in a row. We do this on three different cross members on each trailer, plus the front and rear board caps. All in all, this trailer has about 70 bolts holding this floor in place.

Here is a shot of the rear board cap for reference.

By allowing the boards to be manipulated into place properly and not worry about trying to squeeze the ends under a pre-welded floor cap, you just get a much smoother, flatter, nicer, tighter floor in my opinion.

Anyone have questions or want info, feel free to pop me a message.
Thanks
Craig