Time to re-deck my trailer

   / Time to re-deck my trailer #101  
hey now there's a thought. I FINALLY have a fel with down pressure so i can actually do that. all my other laoders are sa lift cyl's.. except for the latest one.. :)

soundguy
 
   / Time to re-deck my trailer #102  
I tried the bow trick, didn't work for me. I talked to the manufacturer the other day and he said they cut the side welds on the rear angle and bend it out of the way. I also had to cut a slot in the welds along the bottom seam of this angle iron.
IMG0294-M.jpg


They weld in these pieces of angle on the sides to help keep the boards together. They are causing problems and the last board won't fit so I may have to notch the boards at this angle piece shown in the picture.
IMG0295-M.jpg
 
   / Time to re-deck my trailer #103  
Very slick method! But my trailer has a 2 ft beaver tail. Any suggestions on that?
John
 
   / Time to re-deck my trailer #104  
I tried the bow trick, didn't work for me. I talked to the manufacturer the other day and he said they cut the side welds on the rear angle and bend it out of the way. I also had to cut a slot in the welds along the bottom seam of this angle iron.
IMG0294-M.jpg


They weld in these pieces of angle on the sides to help keep the boards together. They are causing problems and the last board won't fit so I may have to notch the boards at this angle piece shown in the picture.
IMG0295-M.jpg
Not sure why it did not work for you? Were you using a long enough piece of 2x4 and placing it vertically on the front axle?

I bet I have done 30 trailers just like yours this way with no issues.

Chris
 
   / Time to re-deck my trailer #105  
I wish I'd known about this thread about 12 years ago! I would never have thought of bowing the boards-especially the 2x6-8-10's.

I've used a 45 degree cut over one of the stringers to place the last one or two boards. Not a very good solution, but seemed to work okay for our purposes. Like Chris, I would cut the rest of the boards about 1/4" short, and could usually massage into place with a sledge hammer. As I got closer to the middle, I might have to miter off a corner to make them go in more easily, then finish with the 45 degree cut over a stringer to finish.

I like Chris' idea a lot better......especially given my lack of welding skills! Thanks to everyone for these tips.

GGB
 
   / Time to re-deck my trailer #106  
Not sure why it did not work for you? Were you using a long enough piece of 2x4 and placing it vertically on the front axle?

I bet I have done 30 trailers just like yours this way with no issues.

Chris

I would have had to put about a 3' board to shorten the board up enough to go in. OR take a chance and shorten the boards up. Seemed like too much trouble to me. A few minutes with a L-head and cutting disk, I quickly realized I should have done that from the start.
Did I mention I'm doing this solo, no tractor loader, just me. Right now it's easier to fix stuff at home vs farm 100+ miles away.
My manufacturer suggested I take out the angles pieces on the side and just screw it down. He said it would take me about an hour but their way without screws is a cost item.
Sikeston, utility trailer capitol of ....well something like that.
 
   / Time to re-deck my trailer #107  
I would have had to put about a 3' board to shorten the board up enough to go in. OR take a chance and shorten the boards up. Seemed like too much trouble to me. A few minutes with a L-head and cutting disk, I quickly realized I should have done that from the start.
Did I mention I'm doing this solo, no tractor loader, just me. Right now it's easier to fix stuff at home vs farm 100+ miles away.
My manufacturer suggested I take out the angles pieces on the side and just screw it down. He said it would take me about an hour but their way without screws is a cost item.
Sikeston, utility trailer capitol of ....well something like that.

To each his own. I have bought many trailers from Sikeston. Jerry James Trailers to be exact. I make it down that way all the time for my work. We have a facility we visit in Perryville.

Chris
 
   / Time to re-deck my trailer #108  
To each his own. I have bought many trailers from Sikeston. Jerry James Trailers to be exact. I make it down that way all the time for my work. We have a facility we visit in Perryville.

Chris

Mine is from JAMAR, I've known the owner for several years.
 
   / Time to re-deck my trailer #109  
Thanks for all the great tips. I bought a tube of silicone when I went to Lowes this morning to get the crown nuts. I used it on both sides of the hole, and where the wires hung down while going from side to side for the tail lights, I also siliconed them to the metal frame.

The PT wood was a bit thicker then the wolmanized wood, so I had to sand off the edge of the wood on the front side. The wood has to go into a slot.

I then drilled and bolted the 2x10's to the cross members at three location. Two bolts per cross member. On my first bolt, I realized that the crown nuts were too tight and caused the head of the carriage bolt to spin in the wood. I tried to hold it in place with a pair of vice grips, but did't care for that method. I had already bought regular nuts, so I used them first. One lock washer, the a regular nut, then after that was tight, I added the crown nut. I figured that at the very worst, the crown nut will help lock the standard nut in place.

I thought of loctite, but knew that if I had to tighten up the nuts at a later date, that I'd break the seal on the loctite and have to start all over with it. The bolts, washers and nuts are galvanized. The crown nut is zinc plated. Since the PT wood is above the cross member, the only thing touching it is the bolt. They are 5/16's bolts.

I used two bolts per cross member at three points. Before, there was two self taping screws used per board. Six bolts versus 2 screws.

By the time I was about done, I got to wondering about that angle iron that goes over the ends of the boards. I really wonder what it's advantage is? Does it protect the wood, or does it just hold the wood in place?

What if I put two bolts through the wood and cross member?

I drilled the holes and added the bolts. This gives me 8 bolts per board.

My thinking is that the angle iron catches and holds moisture in it. The trailer is tilted to the back, so when it rains, the water runs down the boards and under the angle iron. This means the end grain is kept wet for longer periods of time then the rest of the wood. Since my wood rotted out from the end grain at the rear of the trailer, I think that the angle iron holds the moisture that caused this problem. If there is no angle iron, then the wood should last allot longer.

I drilled two more holes at the ends of each 2x10 and bolted them to the cross member. That gives me 8 bolts per board.

It's all back together and ready to haul my tractor to the job that I need it at. It wasn't a project that I wanted to do, but it wasn't very difficult either.

Does anybody have a good idea on what I can put on the wood to help it last longer?

Thank you,
Eddie

Hot dipped galvanized bolts and nuts have a different thread than zinc or regular bolts. That's why your aviation nuts wouldn't thread on without spinning the carriage bolt in the wood.
 

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