Tip for handling filled tires alone please

[dickfoster]

The salesman made it look easy
I've found the more you use the quick attachments the easier it gets

Since you like the practice, I'll let you come here and R&R mine. LOL

 

[Luke'sScreenName]

i had done many heavy industrial tires. on my backhoe i have now which is bigger than a case 580, i put a piece of plywood under the tire and shim the plywood up until the plywood supported the tire. take off lug nuts and wiggle tire loose and then wiggle tire off far enough to roll some place to keep standing up. to reinstall, roll tire back on plywood and shim back up to heigh. for shims i use scrap lumber some cut to wedge shape or as needed. to get the tire to rotate in position use grease on the plywood and slide as needed on the grease. i have done this by myself, but easier with 2 people.

Well explained. Thank you!

 

[teg]

Would reducing the air pressure, help or hurt?

I just got some spacers that I need to install...

 

[Garycw]

Would reducing the air pressure, help or hurt? I just got some spacers that I need to install...

I would think that would make them harder to handle. Air doesn't weigh much.

 

[4570Man]

All good advice and well taken. Will be interesting to see how hard it is to spin the HST transaxle exen in neutral (especially without the wheel for mechanical advantage)

I'm guessing pretty easy.

 

[teg]

I would think that would make them harder to handle. Air doesn't weigh much.

Thinking they may sit upright but yea, I can see trying to wiggle them the rubber would just "give" instead of actually move.

 

[SPYDERLK]

I think I understand what you mean by "lean" but can you expound?

Sure. ... Imagine you have a tire in the open and you want to pick it up and have it hang with the bottom shifted out of line with the top. To do this you fashion the lift point so it is off center on the tire. I like to use the cam lock motorcycle tie downs from HF. Theyre easily strong enuf if you double them up. They adjust easily for setup and you dont have to worry about banging things up as with chain. Also, Im not sure theres room on an R4 rim to pass a chain around the tire.

,,,Anyway, the hoist boom will be above the fender and the tire should be resting on the floor but not supporting any of the tractors weight. With the tire on the tractor you want to loop around the 12 oclock position with straps or chain such that as the slip hook cinches the loop tight the hook is toward the inward/tractor side of the tread centerline. The lift is then effectively happening at that point and the top of the tire will try to angle outward as you apply some lift. Dont take the last bolt out until you start tensioning the lift. Be sure your hook/s are secure because when you remove the bolt the strap/chain may slacken and then re tension as the tire tips outward clear of the fender to where the boom stops it. Then you just raise the boom to lift it and then roll the hoist where you want to park the tire.

 

[Luke'sScreenName]

So I went out and looked and the tire center is farther out than I thought. Placing the boom from the engine hoist should not be an issue.
Thanks for the explanation though Spyder.

 

[MF283]

Sure. ... Imagine you have a tire in the open and you want to pick it up and have it hang with the bottom shifted out of line with the top. To do this you fashion the lift point so it is off center on the tire. I like to use the cam lock motorcycle tie downs from HF. Theyre easily strong enuf if you double them up. They adjust easily for setup and you dont have to worry about banging things up as with chain. Also, Im not sure theres room on an R4 rim to pass a chain around the tire.

,,,Anyway, the hoist boom will be above the fender and the tire should be resting on the floor but not supporting any of the tractors weight. With the tire on the tractor you want to loop around the 12 oclock position with straps or chain such that as the slip hook cinches the loop tight the hook is toward the inward/tractor side of the tread centerline. The lift is then effectively happening at that point and the top of the tire will try to angle outward as you apply some lift. Dont take the last bolt out until you start tensioning the lift. Be sure your hook/s are secure because when you remove the bolt the strap/chain may slacken and then re tension as the tire tips outward clear of the fender to where the boom stops it. Then you just raise the boom to lift it and then roll the hoist where you want to park the tire.

Yep, that's the way you do it. I was wondering if you could jack it up high enough for a wheel dolly & then run a ratchet strap around it once it's on the dolly:confused3:

Ronnie

 

[C4Ranch]

Look at post #10. Easy to remove part of fender.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...factory-triple-remote-install.html?highlight=

You will be surprised how hard it is just to roll that filled tire... Maybe more air would help (decreased contact patch) but u sure don't want that thing falling over...

 

[showcattle]

It's not too bad if you're careful. Jack up tractor to barely remove tire from ground, and walk tire off the studs. Keep tire vertical at all times. If tire starts to fall, let it go and don't try to stop it. When reinstalling tire, I like to get a stud at 12:00. Walk tire in place and get 12:00 stud started in wheel hole. Start a lug nut, and jack tractor up more. In my experience, this caused the wheel to drop in place.

 

[Luke'sScreenName]

Look at post #10. Easy to remove part of fender.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...factory-triple-remote-install.html?highlight=

You will be surprised how hard it is just to roll that filled tire... Maybe more air would help (decreased contact patch) but u sure don't want that thing falling over...

Looks good. I'll do that if necessary. Thanks!

 

[The Fred]

I remove my fenders ( 5 mins) then use an engine hoist and a rugged strap. Tighten the strap as tight as you dare so the crane does not move away from the tire itself. Remove lugs and let the tire settle on the frame of the engine hoist. I've had them off like 5 times, no issues. They are loaded 17.4-24L.

Fred

 

[Luke'sScreenName]

I remove my fenders ( 5 mins) then use an engine hoist and a rugged strap. Tighten the strap as tight as you dare so the crane does not move away from the tire itself. Remove lugs and let the tire settle on the frame of the engine hoist. I've had them off like 5 times, no issues. They are loaded 17.4-24L.

Fred

:thumbsup:
Thats my plan

 

[Luke'sScreenName]

Had some free time today so I got the garage cleaned out and started on the tractor. I know getting them off is the easy part but it really was pretty easy and straight forward.







And yes I know 3 jack stands is overkill.
Hopefully, putting them back on is also anticlimactic.

 

[dickfoster]

Had some free time today so I got the garage cleaned out and started on the tractor. I know getting them off is the easy part but it really was pretty easy and straight forward.

View attachment 463933

View attachment 463934

View attachment 463932

And yes I know 3 jack stands is overkill.
Hopefully, putting them back on is also anticlimactic.

Now for the tricky part, for us old guys anyway. Now do you remember why you took them off?

 

[Garycw]

You can't have too many jack stands. Good job!

 

[Luke'sScreenName]

Now for the tricky part, for us old guys anyway. Now do you remember why you took them off?

Ha! I did label them left and right.

 

[Luke'sScreenName]

You can't have too many jack stands. Good job!

According to my operator's manual you are only suposed to jack from the center (drawbar housing) after "securing the front axle so it can not turn).
Since there is no "front axle" that turns/pivots and I did not know how to fix both front wheels..... Hence three stands.

 

[oldpilgrim]

I did it with a much smaller tractor and filled tire. It is extremely difficult. I can't imagine it with your tractor.

But for what it is worth, I thought if I had to do it again I would use tire dolley like this

http://m.northerntool.com/products/...SvaQl5zNn7f_0K8ENgHgQ3zgseQdm0vGegaAsBd8P8HAQ

i dont think they would work.

250-lb. capacity per dolly; 1,000-lb. total capacity

my r4's will stand up by themselves.

 

[farmer2009]

I've done it. Not with your size but 16.9x 28. Fully loaded with calcium and cast iron centers. It was very interesting using a smaller tractor and trying to chain enough weight to the front end to keep it less than a foot off the ground. .

The next time we built a stand with four rolling wheels. They were straight and didn't swivel. Would have been better with two swivels. Had two legs that rolled under the tire. Then two more uprights with some bracing. Roll under tire and chain to stand. Remove lug bolts. Roll out of the way.

This last time I just let the local tire shop use their boom truck. .

 

[PhysAssist]

I did mine on my Branson 4520r by myself. Branson was smart enough to make two opposing wheel bolts to be studs. A lot easier to put a wheel on studs than it is to put bolts through the wheel and into the hub.

Could you get hold of two long bolts that match the thread ct and diameter of your wheel lugs/studs, and put them through the back/inside of the hub sticking out to give yourself this advantage (temporarily, of course)?

 

[PhysAssist]

Had some free time today so I got the garage cleaned out and started on the tractor. I know getting them off is the easy part but it really was pretty easy and straight forward.

And yes I know 3 jack stands is overkill.
Hopefully, putting them back on is also anticlimactic.

Hi Luke,

I'm glad you got er done, but if you used that hydraulic lift to raise the tire at all, you've overloaded it.

The rating on the side of the boom says 1/2 ton, and you said that your tires weigh 700# each.

Please be careful, just saying...
Thomas

 

[Luke'sScreenName]

Hi Luke,

I'm glad you got er done, but if you used that hydraulic lift to raise the tire at all, you've overloaded it.

The rating on the side of the boom says 1/2 ton, and you said that your tires weigh 700# each.

Please be careful, just saying...
Thomas

Thomas, can you explain more? How is it overloaded? Keep in mind I can be a little dense.

 

[teg]

ton = 2,000 pounds
1/2 ton = 1,000 pounds
:confused3:

 

[PhysAssist]

ton = 2,000 pounds
1/2 ton = 1,000 pounds
:confused3:

Dude, I'm still asleep, sorry my ciphering module loaded after my finger tapping module.
T

 

[Luke'sScreenName]

I do that kinda thing too. No problem! :thumbsup::drink:

 

[teg]

Dude, I'm still asleep, sorry my ciphering module loaded after my finger tapping module.
T

No problem, for a second, I thought the same thing. :dance1:

 

[SPYDERLK]

No problem, for a second, I thought the same thing and I was right there with you :dance1:

PS. You have 24 hours to delete or modify your post so ours don't make any sense... you have until 5:35 tomorrow night to change it

Too late ... unless #74 goes with it

 

[dstig1]

Haven't read all the thread, but here was my solution. Was essentially called a wimp by several posters for not hoisting them on my back. But it worked, and worked well. I call that smart, but pick your adjective as you like... Getting them lined up to remount is the bigger hassle. Especially the second tire.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/278997-how-lift-filled-rear-tires.html?highlight=

 

[SPYDERLK]

That thread makes it clear that a lot of helpful things could be learned ... but that you can get around this by making a special tool instead.

 

[Garycw]

That thread makes it clear that a lot of helpful things could be learned ... but that you can get around this by making a special tool instead.

A cell phone to call 911 is a good tool to have also

 

[Luke'sScreenName]

So the wheels went back on almost as easy as they came off! Really anticlimactic.

Engine hoist, ratchet strap and concrete floors make it super easy.

Thanks everyone for the help! :drink:

 

[dickfoster]

So the wheels went back on almost as easy as they came off! Really anticlimactic.

Engine hoist, ratchet strap and concrete floors make it super easy.

Thanks everyone for the help! :drink:

Glad you got it sorted out. Now get after those stumps. LOL
You might wanna get a ripper tooth, too. I'm about to install mine and see how it does.

 

[k0ua]

So the wheels went back on almost as easy as they came off! Really anticlimactic.

Engine hoist, ratchet strap and concrete floors make it super easy.

Thanks everyone for the help! :drink:

You made it look easy!:thumbsup:

 

[Luke'sScreenName]

Glad you got it sorted out. Now get after those stumps. LOL
You might wanna get a ripper tooth, too. I'm about to install mine and see how it does.View attachment 464583

Who's did you get?

 

[Luke'sScreenName]

You made it look easy!:thumbsup:

Subframe is on. Power beyond loop installed. Tractor is back together.

I have yet to mount the hoe. Pretty sure I can make that harder than it should be! Lol.

 

[dickfoster]

Who's did you get?

BroTek. The folks on this board have mostly good things to say about them so I got one from them.

To me it seems a little pricey for what it is but we shall see. I got the trencher option too but don't know if it'll do much, looks can be deceiving. If not I can always put the bucket back on to dig a trench. At 150 bucks for a piece of angle and four bolts I know the trencher is probably overpriced but I was more concerned with stumps than the trencher. However, they were very quick to get it made, (from my measurements) out the door and on the way.

In case you're wondering they are way up there in the boondocks of Canuckistan, (New Brunswick, Canada). However the tooth only took about a week via post to get here and it arrived on schedule with two postal systems involved. Imagine that.

 

[tcartwri]

I'm a little late to this, but I use a pallet jack. Very easy to manipulate the tire, but you have to be careful that it doesn't topple over when wheeling around. And the floor has to be smooth.