Tip-over control

[LBrown59]

1* If I were to push the back tires out 3-4 inches, then they would largely be off the ramps (if the ramps were positioned for the front tires).
3*It also means that the tires will not follow themselves through the fields, which could be a consideration with crop row spacing and such.
5*I know I have one ditch alongside a narrow road that I take to my gravel pit area. If I had to allow 6 more inches, then the ditch side tire would probably be in-the-ditch.

1*3*and 5*
Good points before you blunder into making changes on the tractor.

 

[firefighter jim]

Maybe it's just me - I don't know. But it seems like my new L3400 doesn't feel secure at all on mild slopes. I have a FEL and BB on it, with R4 tires (filled rear tires), but to me, it just doesn't feel solid.

Is there anything else I need to do, other than just used to it, to make if feel more secure?


Thanks.

ps yeah - I know... think training wheels

That's good that you're concerned about the tip factor on slopes. Almost tipped mine over twice on the same day (L3400) while planting some trees. I had the loader way to high for the slope that I was navigating (should have known better). Had I not shoved the joystick forward quickly to drop the loader arms, I would have gone over. Key here, as I believe someone else had mentioned, is to keep loader as low to ground as possible if you must drive across a slope. You're right, they are definitely tipsy. My dealer also filled rears and mounted wheels to maximum width when I purchased.

 

[Ken45101]

I've found It just the other way around.
The bigger The tractor the bigger the pucker factor.

I've spent years mowing a couple of hillsides by backing down them, I was afraid to go crosswise. (Kubota M4700 and M5040). Slow process First time I did it, I had a stiff neck for two weeks.

I recently bought a newer, bigger tractor (M9540). It feels so much more stable that I've been able to cut those hillsides crosswise and feel safe and stable. Of course it may help that the M9540 has 1) wider wheel base 2) wider tires 3) I have the wheels set for max width. It also probably helps that it came with 28" tires instead of 30's.

I'm not sure what good a tilt meter would do until you calibrate it with a roll over

Ken

 

[edwagofwv]

I posted this is the section with the dummyed up rollover pics. Just thought I'd move it over here too both to make it more available to Kubota owners/engineers and to let others know that slow puckers are possible, but not recommended.

Where I live, if it weren't for hills there would be no here... MF35 with tires out does great up to a point on hillsides, but not pulling a square bailer, I have mowed some steep hillsides but turning at the end of the windrows requires disengaging the bailer to not get driven down the hill by the inertia of the plunger. One thing very important is to go SLOW.
I purchased a Kubota BX24 couple years ago and have laid it over once left and once right. I love the tractor, but is more for a flatlander, or straight up and down hillside which causes come problems here. I've written to Kubota several times and requested a suggested POR (Point of Roll) degree, but have heard nothing from them. It rolls slowly and only on the side giving plenty of time to exit, but the engine didn't shut off right away on the roll to the left and I had to take out the glow plugs and blow the extra fuel out of the cylinders to get it to start again.
My wife has a riding lawn mower with a warning of 18Degrees in the book, I'd wish that the Kubota folks would follow suit. That way at least I'd have an idea instead of just trying to feel my way along sometimes.

 

[megaboz]

I posted this is the section with the dummyed up rollover pics. Just thought I'd move it over here too both to make it more available to Kubota owners/engineers and to let others know that slow puckers are possible, but not recommended.

Where I live, if it weren't for hills there would be no here... MF35 with tires out does great up to a point on hillsides, but not pulling a square bailer, I have mowed some steep hillsides but turning at the end of the windrows requires disengaging the bailer to not get driven down the hill by the inertia of the plunger. One thing very important is to go SLOW.
I purchased a Kubota BX24 couple years ago and have laid it over once left and once right. I love the tractor, but is more for a flatlander, or straight up and down hillside which causes come problems here. I've written to Kubota several times and requested a suggested POR (Point of Roll) degree, but have heard nothing from them. It rolls slowly and only on the side giving plenty of time to exit, but the engine didn't shut off right away on the roll to the left and I had to take out the glow plugs and blow the extra fuel out of the cylinders to get it to start again.
My wife has a riding lawn mower with a warning of 18Degrees in the book, I'd wish that the Kubota folks would follow suit. That way at least I'd have an idea instead of just trying to feel my way along sometimes.

I haven't rolled my BX24, but Ihave come very close. While an indicator would help in most cases, all it takes is to get comfortable and an accident is goign to happen.

While cutting through a field I always cut, a spring had crept up from under ground and the the lower front tire sank and almost took me over. Fortunately (thank god for power steering), I was able to turn down the hill and kept it from rolling.

Tilt meters have been mention before, but there is no real safe angle in the case of a tire sinking or hitting a hole. It actually opens the manufacture up to liability problems. But at least Kubota should answer a question when sent to them. I have found that most of the big companies don't really care about one person.

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

I can see why a company would not tell someone at what degrees a tractor is safe. If they go to high/low the other tractor companies could say theirs is safer at higher/lower degrees. If they give a higher/lower degree and someone, as you did, hit a hole and it rolls, then the company will have to pay and pay and pay. There are also so many variables (weights, weighted tires, boxblade, fel, tiller, canopies, etc, etc, etc.) that I don't think there is an answer. You may not be an idiot but there are idiots out there among us and they can buy tractors just like they have bought cars.

 

[Deano]

I can see why a company would not tell someone at what degrees a tractor is safe. If they go to high/low the other tractor companies could say theirs is safer at higher/lower degrees. If they give a higher/lower degree and someone, as you did, hit a hole and it rolls, then the company will have to pay and pay and pay. There are also so many variables (weights, weighted tires, boxblade, fel, tiller, canopies, etc, etc, etc.) that I don't think there is an answer. You may not be an idiot but there are idiots out there among us and they can buy tractors just like they have bought cars.

Thank you, that saved me from typing all that!!!!

I agree 100%

Deano