Snow tips connecting MF2360 snowblower

[sarekr]

I'm not farmilar with how to work the locking collar on the driveline yoke from the Snowblower (it's itme 1 in the assembly diagram).

Any tips on how to push the yoke over the collar? I know it must click to seat correctly. This is only my second time putting the blower on (Massey GC 2400) and I get stuck working the **** thing correctly/

 

[blackd]

IIRC, you push it forward to release the balls. I wonder if there is a method to retain it forward, a string or wire? Then release the retainer after the dollar is over the drive shaft. This method might be even more efficient for the mower deck than just the snow blower.

I will experiment this week when I mount my own 2360.

 

[sarekr]

will try it and let you know...thanks I hate going thru the new stage and little thinks like this can take so long to figure out / get used to. Especially since you only do it once a season. That why this forum is so great.

Thanks much blackd

 

[Don87]

It works the same as the mower driveshaft. Slide the collar towards the u-joint, slide it on the shaft, then release. Push it the whole way on, then pull back slightly. Listen for the click, and wiggle it, to be sure it seated properly.

 

[irvingj]

Try sliding the two pieces together just a bit without doing anything at first, just to make sure you get the splines and grooves lined up-- just push it on far enough to feel this, though that can be tricky-- try to hold one part still and rotate the other until they line up and begin to slide together.

Then pull back on the locking ring and slide on the rest of the way, listening for the click.

I find it darned near impossible to hold the locking ring back while --at the same time-- trying to line up the splines!

 

[MF RED in MT]

Do not forget to push the "driveline support" metal tab down on its hinge or it will cut through the plastic driveline guard, :thumbsup:. KC

 

[irvingj]

"Do not forget to push the "driveline support" metal tab down on its hinge or it will cut through the plastic driveline guard"

Uh, Gee.... I've never forgotten that!:ashamed::laughing:

Good point, KC!

 

[amkfken]

I picked up a tip somewhere on this forum--
When dismounting the blower next spring, just leave the front driveshaft connected, release the lock lever, back up, it will separate in the telescoping portion, leave the rear half on the front mount, front half stays on the blower, when remounting it's a lot easier to line up the square halves, they just slip together!

 

[MF RED in MT]

"Do not forget to push the "driveline support" metal tab down on its hinge or it will cut through the plastic driveline guard"

Uh, Gee.... I've never forgotten that!:ashamed::laughing:

Good point, KC!

irvingj, without any help or instructions from my dealer, I learned about this fold down tab the hard way, :mur:. KC

 

[blackd]

I installed the 2360 drive shaft yesterday, and it is much easier to install than the short mower deck without any special tools. As with any splined shaft the key is to get the splines aligned. While rolling around under the tractor I thought it might have been easier to install the front before lifting and placing the mount on the tractor. At least that would just leave aligning the rear of the shaft to the transmission. This is easier if I drive the rear of the tractor up onto ramps for more clearance.

For those with snow blowers on their GCs, do you have cabs? Yet?

 

[irvingj]

"For those with snow blowers on their GCs, do you have cabs? Yet?"

Nope.

Where I park it, a cab would be an extremely tight fit, if even possible. I just tough it out and wear a rain suit over insulated coveralls.

 

[amkfken]

When I was pricing tractors, I had a cab on the shopping list, this was before I got my blower, It is from M-F (Curtis Cab), not heated, just to keep the wind and snow off me, It is on all year, just remove doors in summer.

 

[MF RED in MT]

For those with snow blowers on their GCs, do you have cabs? Yet?

Yes, ordered a Sims indy style hard sided cab w/ heater installed and delivered with original MF order, :thumbsup:. Has kept me very warm and dry in our cold long winters here in Montana, :2cents:. KC

Here is a link:

Sims Cab Depot - Tractor Cabs and Cab Enclosures - Indy Cab - Massey Ferguson GC2410, GC2610

 

[Don87]

No cab on mine.

 

[thehogman]

I've had my 2610 with backhoe for 3.5 years and just now joined this forum.

In January I bought a 2360 SB from a local dealer. Because of a snow drought in NH I got to use it for the first time March 1st. When mounting I noticed the drive shaft will slip off the output shaft because it floats in the drive lines. I asked some one who also has a 2360 and he said it is a known problem because the drive shaft is too short. His came off and broke so he had one made. Nicely done and long enough to compensate for the 3 + " of slip.

After several attemps to get the shaft to saty on I tried it out before the storm at low rpm and the drive shaft slipped off and snapped off the rear U Joint on the PTO shaft.

The dealer is no help however it is under warranty. I also showed this problem to a crew of engineers at work and they suggested putting in a pin to limit the forward float.

Has anyone else experience this problem.

 

[irvingj]

hogman, it was a while ago so I'm not remembering all the details, but there a few cases of driveshaft slip-outs causing extensive damage on the 2360 blower. If you do a search, I posted some pics of the proper set-up for the quick-coupler.

It seems that, at least on some cases, the set screws on the short shaft that goes through the quick-coupler loosened and allowed that shaft to slide (forward, I believe), which reduced the overlap on the PTO driveshaft-- which resulted in the shaft slipping off and slamming around under the tractor.

I never had the problem with mine, but I did, just in case, purchase a driveshaft yoke from a supplier that had about 1 inch more of splined-shaft length in order to increase the overlap. Someone else had done that, which solved their problem. (Since I've never had the issue, I've never installed it.) The idea was that it would replace the yoke on the end of the 3' mid-PTO driveshaft.

I think if you search for "driveshaft" with the 2300 series tractors, you'll find it. (Perhaps soemone with a memory better than mine could be more specific...:ashamed

Take a look at the pic below- is this where the shaft slipped off? (That's where is slips onto the rear of the quick-hitch coupler business.)

WBB in NH

 

[thehogman]

Thanks for your reply Irvingj.

From your post I read you were also unhappy with the amount of engagement of the yoke. Good buy on your part.

Yes, the output shaft "floted" toward the SB enough to slip the yoke out and destroyed the u-joint on the PTO side of the drivesgaft.

The connection to the SB of the floting male shaft is bolted onto the SB shaft as there is a bolt hole through both. Did this because the u-joint material is a cast steel and the set screw was stretching the threads when I torqued it similar to ones here at work which are all hard steel.

I had read several problems as you describe and I experienced with this mount configuration and should have contacted the dealer before the incident. After the dealer played dumb, as expected when I explained the problem and gave him the web sites to check it out for themselves. I will be there Saturday with the broken shaft looking for a warranty replacement.

On another subject. Nice Corsair in the picture. I flew at the Laconia airport for a while about 15 years ago. Gave it up to ride the Harley, hunt, fish and sport shoot. I built a FW190D9 from a pico kit. Never flew it but I heard it was a great flyer.

 

[irvingj]

Good luck with the warranty, hogman, I hope it works out all right.

As I said, I've never installed the new yoke, because I never had the drifting issues with the short shaft in the quick hitch (but I'm keeping it, just in case!).

So far so good, anyway. When I read about the problems others were having, I checked the set screws, tightening them up with a bit of Loctite on them, after ensuring the shaft's position was correct.

If you're interested, I ordered the replacement 6" slip yoke (through a tip from another TBN member) from Inland Truck Parts in Overland Park, KS.

Seems like it was around $30 or less, and came with a new u-joint. Their part number is 014 812-0615.

In the pics, you can see the original yoke connected to the quick-hitch subframe, and in another pic, the replacement yoke, for comparison. The new one is about an inch longer in the splines.