3-Point Hitch Tips for connecting to the 3-point
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beenthere
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The trick is the 'quick hitch' be it a SpeeCo, a LandPride, or an iMatch.
Other tricks if the QA isn't a possibility, is a pipe or bar to move things around. Take advantage of the adjustable link on one 3pt arm, and loosening or disconnecting the 3pt arm stabilizers so the arms can 'sway'. Back close to the implement, and get one arm connected, then use the adjuster to lower or raise the other arm to the correct height to connect it. After both are connected, then connect the top link. Hope this makes some sense to you.
Other tricks if the QA isn't a possibility, is a pipe or bar to move things around. Take advantage of the adjustable link on one 3pt arm, and loosening or disconnecting the 3pt arm stabilizers so the arms can 'sway'. Back close to the implement, and get one arm connected, then use the adjuster to lower or raise the other arm to the correct height to connect it. After both are connected, then connect the top link. Hope this makes some sense to you.
OhioGuy
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I'm fortunate to have a large building with a cement floor. I took some beefy pallets and put beefier casters on them.
It makes the hookups a breeze. When I'm done with an implement, I just unload it on a pallet. I can easily push it anywhere in the building,
Harbor Freight often has casters on sale really cheap.
Mine are smaller implements, 4ft brushhog, 5 ft finish mower, but I have occasionally dropped them outside and needed to hookup there, it's a lot tougher.
Also, trying to put the finish mower on with an hour of daylight left, whenever I'm in a hurry......
Good luck and much more importantly, be careful.
Curt
It makes the hookups a breeze. When I'm done with an implement, I just unload it on a pallet. I can easily push it anywhere in the building,
Harbor Freight often has casters on sale really cheap.
Mine are smaller implements, 4ft brushhog, 5 ft finish mower, but I have occasionally dropped them outside and needed to hookup there, it's a lot tougher.
Also, trying to put the finish mower on with an hour of daylight left, whenever I'm in a hurry......
Good luck and much more importantly, be careful.
Curt
tawilson
Platinum Member
I keep a drift pin and a 3 lb. hammer in the toolbox. Also, I tip the bucket forward and put the lip down under pressure so I can use the bucket to move the tractor without having to get on and off. Also, if you're not on level ground, connect the low side of the implement first, you can always lift to get the other.
All of my implements are dropped outside on the ground with whatever is laying around for support (if needed). I have a 5/8 inch solid steel bar about 5 feet long I leave in the general location of the drop zone. I only weigh 145 so need all the leverage I can get.
My 3000 doesn't have movable arm ends like the newer tractors so I move the implement. Back up to the beast, and try to get one arm aligned as close as possible to the pin. If I am off a little I use the bar to adjust the implement so I can get one side hooked up. Once one side is secure I move to the other side and using the bar to move the implement get the other side hooked. Once the arms are hooked I use the lift to help get the top link lined up.
It really isn't a big deal to switch and depending on the project will find myself switching from the Box Blade to the Landscape rake and back several times in a day. The brush hog is the hardest but even it isn't that big a deal..
My 3000 doesn't have movable arm ends like the newer tractors so I move the implement. Back up to the beast, and try to get one arm aligned as close as possible to the pin. If I am off a little I use the bar to adjust the implement so I can get one side hooked up. Once one side is secure I move to the other side and using the bar to move the implement get the other side hooked. Once the arms are hooked I use the lift to help get the top link lined up.
It really isn't a big deal to switch and depending on the project will find myself switching from the Box Blade to the Landscape rake and back several times in a day. The brush hog is the hardest but even it isn't that big a deal..
Cottonhawk
Gold Member
I do pretty much the same as OhioGuy. Each of my impliments have a rolling platform and stored in the cement floor of my barn. It's really easy to just roll them up to the tractor and hook up. I made sure that the platforms are of the right height.
PineRidge
Super Member
If you have one general area that you usually drop your implements then I have a suggestion. Get yourself a piece of pipe that will fit over the pins on the implement. If the pipe is about 4' long you can slip it over a pin and use it as a lever to align the implement before you extend the lower links. Leave the piece of pipe where you will again be dropping the implement.
Soundguy
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Practice, practice, practice.
The more you do it.. the better you get.
I used to take about 15 minutes to hook up an implement.. not it is a minute or less. Even on the big cat 2 tractors.
You learn exactly how to back up in line where you need to be, and where to put the lift arms.
A small hammer and a prybar will help as you learn.. prybar is great for nudging an implement and inch or two. Also.. many of us grab onto the back tire of the tractor and can push it an inch or two.. if it is on flat ground.. and not a huge machine.
If you can even get 1 lower arm hooked up... you can leverage the other one in with a long screwdriver.. then you can adjust the toplink to hookup.
Soundguy
The more you do it.. the better you get.
I used to take about 15 minutes to hook up an implement.. not it is a minute or less. Even on the big cat 2 tractors.
You learn exactly how to back up in line where you need to be, and where to put the lift arms.
A small hammer and a prybar will help as you learn.. prybar is great for nudging an implement and inch or two. Also.. many of us grab onto the back tire of the tractor and can push it an inch or two.. if it is on flat ground.. and not a huge machine.
If you can even get 1 lower arm hooked up... you can leverage the other one in with a long screwdriver.. then you can adjust the toplink to hookup.
Soundguy
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I keep a drift pin and a 3 lb. hammer in the toolbox. Also, I tip the bucket forward and put the lip down under pressure so I can use the bucket to move the tractor without having to get on and off. Also, if you're not on level ground, connect the low side of the implement first, you can always lift to get the other. )</font>
Wow, why haven't I thought of that. I drop my bucket to kinda ancor the tractor and pry the implement into position. My 6ft 150 lb frame can't move a 3000 by pushing but I bet the bucket can /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Wow, why haven't I thought of that. I drop my bucket to kinda ancor the tractor and pry the implement into position. My 6ft 150 lb frame can't move a 3000 by pushing but I bet the bucket can /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
djradz
Veteran Member
I focus more on backing up the tractor to be centered on the implement, than I do on exactly aligning the arms. Once I'm extremely close, then the last little bit I align the arms. You should be able to get close enough that it doesn't require much movement. Also, if you have the extendable lower link arms, stay an inch or so away and extend the arms. With the arms extended, there's more flex.