Slacker
Gold Member
EddieWalker said:
EddieWalker, I've got 5 of those stickers to remove this weekend and you just saved me alot of time. Spray with WD40, have a cool adult beverage, repeat as needed! Thanks for the idea.
Tips for removing 100% silicone caulk?
- Thread starter 5030tinkerer
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EddieWalker, I've got 5 of those stickers to remove this weekend and you just saved me alot of time. Spray with WD40, have a cool adult beverage, repeat as needed! Thanks for the idea.
A gum rubber wheel mounted on a drill will work. These are often used for removing pinstripes, decals and adhesive molding tape from cars and boats that have a painted surface- and that is much softer and more easily damaged than enameled cast iron is. I have watched the guys at work doing this and it is really, really dificult to even burn the paint.
gsganzer
Elite Member
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Uh oh!! We have some finger draggers here! I almost never drag my finger along the caulk bead. You shouldn't need to if you applied it correctly.
If you cut the tip at the proper angle, hold the cauking gun at the proper angle and move at the right speed, you shouldn't need to go back over it with your finger. Dragging the finger across the bead can make a real mess that makes the project look crappy IMO. Especially if you use silicone caulk.
I'm no expert, but I just finished remodeling my entire house including a kitchen and a bathroom. I did plenty of caulking in the process and arrived at a few simple tips for caulking.
One of the important things is to have the right joint prep. For example, when you tile a back splash or tiled corners in a shower area. You want a slight 1/8" gap between the two surfaces, so any movement between the two surfaces won't crack the tile. When you caulk that gap, the gun should be angled so the caulk gets squeezed into that 1/8" gap. That's what helps to anchor the bead in place. Another thing, most caulk shrinks as it dries. The bead will usually look much better then you think it will once it dries. In most cases, it will appear that it got sucked into the gap a little bit after it dries. The other thing I do is to first look at all the places I need to caulk for the project. I first cut my nozzle as small as possible and do all the little gaps first. Then I cut the nozzle larger and larger as I move my way up to the bigger gaps.
I have a few exceptions to the finger dragging. The main one is when caulking base boards and door casing. I use painters caulk for that, and clean the excess caulk off with a wet rag. I want a real crisp, 90 degree line between the moulding and the wall, so I get the right kind of reveal and a nice crisp paint line.
If you cut the tip at the proper angle, hold the cauking gun at the proper angle and move at the right speed, you shouldn't need to go back over it with your finger. Dragging the finger across the bead can make a real mess that makes the project look crappy IMO. Especially if you use silicone caulk.
I'm no expert, but I just finished remodeling my entire house including a kitchen and a bathroom. I did plenty of caulking in the process and arrived at a few simple tips for caulking.
One of the important things is to have the right joint prep. For example, when you tile a back splash or tiled corners in a shower area. You want a slight 1/8" gap between the two surfaces, so any movement between the two surfaces won't crack the tile. When you caulk that gap, the gun should be angled so the caulk gets squeezed into that 1/8" gap. That's what helps to anchor the bead in place. Another thing, most caulk shrinks as it dries. The bead will usually look much better then you think it will once it dries. In most cases, it will appear that it got sucked into the gap a little bit after it dries. The other thing I do is to first look at all the places I need to caulk for the project. I first cut my nozzle as small as possible and do all the little gaps first. Then I cut the nozzle larger and larger as I move my way up to the bigger gaps.
I have a few exceptions to the finger dragging. The main one is when caulking base boards and door casing. I use painters caulk for that, and clean the excess caulk off with a wet rag. I want a real crisp, 90 degree line between the moulding and the wall, so I get the right kind of reveal and a nice crisp paint line.
silicone (100%) caulk is acetic acid based, and that is why vinegar (usually 5% acetic acid/water) operates as a solvent.
For applying 100% silicone, prepare a spray bottle with about 1-2 tablespoons of dawn liquid detergent, run your bead, spray the bead with detergent solution, drag finger and continually wipe excess onto a paper towel. The detergent solution creates sufficient lubricity to enable a very clean and thin bead. You won't have the smear job that results from finger dragging an un-sprayed bead.
For applying 100% silicone, prepare a spray bottle with about 1-2 tablespoons of dawn liquid detergent, run your bead, spray the bead with detergent solution, drag finger and continually wipe excess onto a paper towel. The detergent solution creates sufficient lubricity to enable a very clean and thin bead. You won't have the smear job that results from finger dragging an un-sprayed bead.
OP
5030tinkerer
Gold Member
Just some closure here - I was able to remove 100% of the caulk with the OTC silicone remover that they sold at the local Menards - $5 and a few minutes time is all it took. I didn't even know such a product existed. Thanks!
CurlyDave
Elite Member
The very, very best way to put the bead on pure silicone caulk is with a properly shaped ice cube.
Try it, you will be amazed. The ice gives the silicone a smooth, almost glassy finish.
Try it, you will be amazed. The ice gives the silicone a smooth, almost glassy finish.
Viper9087
New member
Wow, Just wow. Such horrible Idea's. I had to resurrect this post. 1st off Vinegar, on a painted sink (I'm guessing your talking about an enamel covered cast iron sink) will eat the cast iron, coating and cause it to rust prematurely. Gasoline, diesel, wd40 and any other petroleum will cause new silicone not to seal properly. Using more silicone is just making more mess. To remove it from the Enamel (painted side) use mild steel wool or an SOS pad after you have scraped or pulled off the majority, plastic scraper would be the best as a metal one may leave marks on the enamel. To remove it from the cast iron side, use a metal scraper or putty knife to get as much as possible, then hit it with a wire brush or wire wheel. Finally use Mineral Spirits and a cloth to get off the remainder. This will both eat at the caulk and clean the surface for new caulk.
