Tips for removing 100% silicone caulk?

[5030tinkerer]

The caulk around my enamel-painted cast iron kitchen sink was shot, so I thought I would re-caulk it. I had never used a 100% silicone caulk before and am slightly embarrassed to admit that I wasn't counting on just how sticky that stuff is and now have made a huge mess - the water clean-up latex-based stuff got me spoiled. Now, prior to re-caulking with a latex/silicone caulk blend, I have a need to remove the messed up silicone caulking.

I got the vast majority off of the counter, but the stuff on the enameled sink just won't budge. Does anyone have any ideas for getting this stuff off without damaging the painted finish of the sink? I've spent somewhere close to two hours so far and have made little headway. I keep thinking that there has to be an attachment I can put on a dremel or drill or something that will power it right off...

 

[afitz42101]

I've had good luck removing cured silicone caulk using vinegar. I got the idea based on the smell of the caulk as you are applying it. Elbow grease is also helpful!

 

[InlineDieselFan]

Use a razor blade/scraper with a razor blade, keep a real shallow angle and you will not gouge the sink. That will get the big stuff off, then hopefully somebody has a good idea for the remaining portions.

good luck

steve

 

[5030tinkerer]

I've been using the scraper blade at a very slight angle with some success, though it tends to leave black lines on the otherwise white enameled sink. The process is made substantially more difficult since the caulked edge is on a rounded surface - the blade only removes the caulk precisely where the blade contacts the sink.

I plan on trying out the vinegar idea next.

 

[kennyd]

I can't help with the removal...but here is how I apply the silicone caulk to highly visible joints:
1. Clean joint area well.
2. line both sides of the joint with blue painters tape, this defines the caulk bead size and keeps the extra from smearing everywhere.
3. Apply the caulk.
4.Smooth the caulk with your finger as you normally would.
5. Peel the tape off, being careful not to drag the tape across the bead
6. After the tape is removed there will be a slight ridge on both sides of the joint from the tape, simply run your finger lightly over the joint again carefully and lightly to smooth the ridge.

This method takes more time, but the results are well worth the aggravation.

 

[Leemac]

Might try WD-40.

 

[PBinWA]

Lots of links on Google:

silicone caulk remover - Google Search

Silicone is a pretty unique substance which is why it is useful for what it does but it is very difficult to remove.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

If you can stand the smell in your house, gasoline will remove silicone.

 

[EddieWalker]

I've always just rubbed it with my finger. If I rub it back and forth, it comes apart. It takes awhile, but it works.

I like the WD-40 idea. I haven't tried it on silicone, but I have used it on glues that hold on those stickers on new windows. It works great there.

Eddie

 

[SPYDERLK]

Almost all petroleum based fluids attack cured silicone rubber. WD 40 should be good, gasoline, kerosene, diesel,etc. Regular oil will work too with patience. It weakens the bond and agitation of the cured rubber breaks it free. None of them dissolve the silicone per se, but just gel it up and weaken the bond with varying rapidity.

For smoothing touch up when applying I think one of the best things is saliva on your finger - much better than water due to its inherent slickness, and since it is water based it is compatible with the condensation cure of the RTV rubbers. Delay for a few~5 minutes before smoothing. Keep finger wet. If any rubber transfers to your finger clean off completely and rewet.
Larry

 

[Slacker]

I've always just rubbed it with my finger. If I rub it back and forth, it comes apart. It takes awhile, but it works.

I like the WD-40 idea. I haven't tried it on silicone, but I have used it on glues that hold on those stickers on new windows. It works great there.

Eddie

EddieWalker, I've got 5 of those stickers to remove this weekend and you just saved me alot of time. Spray with WD40, have a cool adult beverage, repeat as needed! Thanks for the idea.

 

[bobkrack]

"Artificial" or "Imitation" turpentine does wonders on all kinds of labels and on silicone.

Yes, rub and rub with a DRY finger will eventually get it all off.

Bob

 

[ELMO67]

A gum rubber wheel mounted on a drill will work. These are often used for removing pinstripes, decals and adhesive molding tape from cars and boats that have a painted surface- and that is much softer and more easily damaged than enameled cast iron is. I have watched the guys at work doing this and it is really, really dificult to even burn the paint.

 

[gsganzer]

Uh oh!! We have some finger draggers here! I almost never drag my finger along the caulk bead. You shouldn't need to if you applied it correctly.

If you cut the tip at the proper angle, hold the cauking gun at the proper angle and move at the right speed, you shouldn't need to go back over it with your finger. Dragging the finger across the bead can make a real mess that makes the project look crappy IMO. Especially if you use silicone caulk.

I'm no expert, but I just finished remodeling my entire house including a kitchen and a bathroom. I did plenty of caulking in the process and arrived at a few simple tips for caulking.

One of the important things is to have the right joint prep. For example, when you tile a back splash or tiled corners in a shower area. You want a slight 1/8" gap between the two surfaces, so any movement between the two surfaces won't crack the tile. When you caulk that gap, the gun should be angled so the caulk gets squeezed into that 1/8" gap. That's what helps to anchor the bead in place. Another thing, most caulk shrinks as it dries. The bead will usually look much better then you think it will once it dries. In most cases, it will appear that it got sucked into the gap a little bit after it dries. The other thing I do is to first look at all the places I need to caulk for the project. I first cut my nozzle as small as possible and do all the little gaps first. Then I cut the nozzle larger and larger as I move my way up to the bigger gaps.

I have a few exceptions to the finger dragging. The main one is when caulking base boards and door casing. I use painters caulk for that, and clean the excess caulk off with a wet rag. I want a real crisp, 90 degree line between the moulding and the wall, so I get the right kind of reveal and a nice crisp paint line.

 

[RFB]

silicone (100%) caulk is acetic acid based, and that is why vinegar (usually 5% acetic acid/water) operates as a solvent.

For applying 100% silicone, prepare a spray bottle with about 1-2 tablespoons of dawn liquid detergent, run your bead, spray the bead with detergent solution, drag finger and continually wipe excess onto a paper towel. The detergent solution creates sufficient lubricity to enable a very clean and thin bead. You won't have the smear job that results from finger dragging an un-sprayed bead.

 

[5030tinkerer]

Just some closure here - I was able to remove 100% of the caulk with the OTC silicone remover that they sold at the local Menards - $5 and a few minutes time is all it took. I didn't even know such a product existed. Thanks!

 

[CurlyDave]

The very, very best way to put the bead on pure silicone caulk is with a properly shaped ice cube.

Try it, you will be amazed. The ice gives the silicone a smooth, almost glassy finish.

 

[Viper9087]

Wow, Just wow. Such horrible Idea's. I had to resurrect this post. 1st off Vinegar, on a painted sink (I'm guessing your talking about an enamel covered cast iron sink) will eat the cast iron, coating and cause it to rust prematurely. Gasoline, diesel, wd40 and any other petroleum will cause new silicone not to seal properly. Using more silicone is just making more mess. To remove it from the Enamel (painted side) use mild steel wool or an SOS pad after you have scraped or pulled off the majority, plastic scraper would be the best as a metal one may leave marks on the enamel. To remove it from the cast iron side, use a metal scraper or putty knife to get as much as possible, then hit it with a wire brush or wire wheel. Finally use Mineral Spirits and a cloth to get off the remainder. This will both eat at the caulk and clean the surface for new caulk.