Tips on keeping top link from backing off

[Sackett2]

You mean there is something out there other than a hydraulic top link? That's ridiculous, I thought tractors had hydraulic pumps for this sort of thing and now I'm hearing some folks use some kind of a threaded rod contraption. Why not just replace the engine with pedals while your at it. ....

Go figure....

I too had the dreaded locking nut issue; kept a hammer for tensioning it.
Just put on a hyd top link from C&C. Just do it. when hooking up a attachment no more unwinding the threads to catch the attachment and winding it back up to set it. Box blade- one quick lever to set it back to drag and a quick adj to lean it forward to use the rippers.

If you alredy have hydralics, just get the top link, around 250. Well worth it.

 

[Egon]

single lock nut torqued to the sleeve Locke's em tight. adding another nut just means you need more tools and time..

The two nuts are jammed together. They don't move. If the top link backs off like it does on mine it takes no tools to tighten it up again. The top link has several rods welded to it at right angles to turn it with. Snug it up and hit with a rock and all is tight again for a while.

 

[8NLUGNUT]

Made this latch this summer to keep my top link from backing off

If that's not patented it should be.

 

[Soundguy]

If the top link backs off like it does on mine it takes no tools to tighten it up again. The top link has several rods welded to it at right angles to turn it with. Snug it up and hit with a rock and all is tight again for a while.

Gee.. same with my setups.. with a single lock nut... just hold the nut stationary and adjust the sleave till tight.. then go.

if they are coming loose easilly.. then the sleave internal threads are wearing to wide tolerances IMHO.

Can always get a 2-part leaf style toplink.. or a lever loc link. I hav ethem on some of my cat 2 machines. adjust to selected length, then fold the lever.. lever has a flat spot when open to allow adjustment.. but when closed, the round portion of the rod cams in place and locks the link from ebing adjusted or slipping.

no tools needed...

soundguy

 

[Egon]

just hold the nut stationary and adjust the sleave till tight.. then go.

Yea but I ain't strong enough to do that without a wrench!

 

[Egon]

Can always get a 2-part leaf style toplink.. or a lever loc link. I hav ethem on some of my cat 2 machines. adjust to selected length, then fold the lever.. lever has a flat spot when open to allow adjustment.. but when closed, the round portion of the rod cams in place and locks the link from ebing adjusted or slipping.

You mean like some others have already suggested???

 

[Soundguy]

You mean like some others have already suggested???

I didn't see any posts mentioning a leaf style toplink, though could have missed it.

I did see a post mentioning the lever locking style link I mentioned, and that's why I brought it up -again-.. this thread seems unreasonably long on such a -simple- subject.

if a threaded toplink is sooooo wore out that you can't keep it tensioned without extra hardware.. IMHO.. it's replacement time.. or at least.. *adjustment time.

if replacing.. might as well go with a style that is made to stay locked without the use of tools.

* if the internal threads on a toplink sleave are sufficiently wore IMHO.. I'd weld a low penetration pass around the OD of the sleave where the threads are located. A 6013 rod on 90a should do it.. or a 115v wire welder.. should shrink the sleave to get more of an interference fit at the threads. I'd weld a lil then check.. don't want to get it too tight. If it doesn't work.. nothing is lost but a few minutes of time and an electrode or two, and the toplink is still in need of repalcement as before.

Another way to shrink the sleave would be to unscrew the ends and then take a sledge to the open face on each side.. a few blows should flatten the ends, and thus shrink the ID a bit .. though this method will only shrink probably a thread or two deep. I like the weld idea better. Have done that on an axle nut for a large truck hub where the axle threads had mild wear... made a quick shallow pass around the 2+" nut across the flats, and it shrunk that sucker perfectly.. torqued it then using a pipe wrench.. but later went back with a die grinder and file and made a set of flats for a standard wrench increment so it was a lil more user friendly next time I worked on it.

Incedentally.. these same tricks work on many situations.. like a grease fitting hole that is stripped.. whether threaded or driv ein.. remve loose fitting, and then hammer onthe hole, then rethread or reset the zerk.. then you can even stake it in with a prick-punch for even more shrinking of the hole than just the hammering.

soundguy

 

[Egon]

Well, rather than going through all those rigamarole's I ended up using a bungee cord just like someone else here suggested. Didn't even need the locknut!

 

[slan]

Great guys, Bungee cable it is for now!

Until I can weld the over center lever lock I purchased onto the top link.