Tips on using a FEL (how not to turn it over)

[john_bud]

Great advice so far. Here's mine...

1) fill rear tires -> if too much of a hassle to do yourself (and it is), call the local Ag tire place. They probably have a mobile truck and can pump them full. About a 20-40$ premium over taking the tractor to them.

1b) wheel weights. They do the same thing as filled tires, but you can remove them to lighten the machine. Downside is cost. Steel is spendy.

2) 3pt Ballast. You want the weight of the tire fill + weight of the ballast to be equal to 100% of the FEL rated lift capacity. Don't go over 150% as the front end may be light when the bucket is empty.

3) Spread the rear wheels out. A change of 6" is noticeable in stability. You want the rears to be out as far as practical for your other jobs. The tire guys can do it when they fill them. Otherwise move them out before you fill -> it is much easier if they are lighter!

4) Keep the work area smooth. Back drag the FULL bucket in float mode. Have the bucket level to biased on the cutting edge then just back up. The weight of the load will smooth the ground and you can still steer. Do this as needed to level and fill ruts and pot holes dug by the rear tires.

5) When you move - keep the bucket tipped back and the top of the bucket no higher than the top of the hood. Think Low and Slow. It's the FEL mantra.

6) Don't change directions abruptly. That goes for turns as well as forward <-> backward. Especially if you are turning and changing from backwards to forwards. This is VERY important when you have a full bucket and more so if the bucket is full and up high.

7) If you have to raise the loader bucket all the way up to dump, only move the tractor straight forward and backward. A max load up high is your least stable, so respect it. After you dump, back up and lower the bucket at the same time.

jb



Note to Roy - In 4wd the front tires and the back tires are connected together thru the transmission. That connection is not broken by use of the clutch. You can stomp the clutch and hit the brakes, stopping the rear tires -> which will also stop the front tires. Increasing the breaking action.

 

[woodchuckie]

When I'm working on trails, I'll take out the pines 6" to 8" and smaller on the move. When the tap root doesn't break loose I have to back up and dig it out. If the bucket is not close to centered on the tree and it's a stubborn root and the terrain is sloped, I find myself on three wheels in an instant. As was mentioned before keep your hand on that stick and know where to move it.

 

[RoyJackson]

"Note to Roy - In 4wd the front tires and the back tires are connected together thru the transmission. That connection is not broken by use of the clutch. You can stomp the clutch and hit the brakes, stopping the rear tires -> which will also stop the front tires. Increasing the breaking action."

Good point!
I didn't think about that..

 

[Z-Michigan]

John Bud has pretty much the complete summary.

I can say that with filled rears (rimguard in 16.9x28's) and almost any implement over 400lbs on the 3pt, I have never, ever had an issue with the front end tipping or the back end getting light. Once or twice without anything on the 3pt the back end has gotten a bit light, but nothing too serious.

Don't make any sudden movements with a load in the bucket and raised (i.e. pretty much John's #5 and #6).

I have fairly level ground and life would be a lot more exciting doing FEL work on slopes. If you're working on slopes, I think you need either filled tires or wheel weights, regardless of weight you're putting on the 3ph.

Bear in mind that when you're not doing the FEL work, weight in the tires/wheels is often a detriment to other tasks, especially if you have MFWD.

 

[texasjohn]

Look carefully at these threads... and follow links...

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/owning-operating/99815-loader-clips.html
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/safety/97525-tractor-rollover-myths-facts.html

Now, with the posts already made and by following fully the links above, you know everything that can be learned by reading about rollovers. Now, let's hope you don't get any real life experience!!!

 

[SPYDERLK]

Quote Z-Michigan:I can say that with filled rears (rimguard in 16.9x28's) and almost any implement over 400lbs on the 3pt, I have never, ever had an issue with the front end tipping or the back end getting light. Once or twice without anything on the 3pt the back end has gotten a bit light, but nothing too serious.

Nothing like good flat working conditions to make you feel secure. Still, its about hydraulic capacities and how much of it you use, combined with wheelbase and front overhang. My 7520 with 81"wheelbase, wideset 85%loaded 16.9X30 rears [and loaded fronts for anti squat], and attached 2000#BH gets overly rear light with a ton in the bucket. Go up to the 2T capacity and you can barely steer because the rears are dancing. When youre clearing and moving trees the need for max ballast shows up quickly.
larry

 

[john_bud]

Larry,

I hear you on that! IT shows up fast on 2wd tractors, much faster than with a 4wd. My old ford with a 3000# hoe on the back is very back light with 3000# in the bucket. Can't back up even a slight hill or over small bumps. But that machine doesn't have loaded tires. (Maybe I should read my #1? )

Ok, it doesn't have loaded tires, YET.

jb

 

[TrippleT]

While this may sound odd, your loader if new, will have a manual that comes with it. Read, read, read it. It should show the different ways to attack a mound of dirt and many other things, such as the proper angles to dig, doze etc.
Do not carry a log or something at an angle that may roll over the arms of the loader down into your lap.
Think safety. While these things are enjoyable and extremely useful they can and will kill, if not used properly.
Since I can't walk and chew bubble gum, it is hard for me to think on more than one half thing at a time. I think it is a good idea to just let safe operation become habitual.

PS If your loader isn't new you can go on the net and download manuals for a loader. Most will have all the information you need.

 

[daTeacha]

A lot of good advice has been given. Here's my $.02. The tractors, especially the compacts are narrow. Adding weight to the rear will help a lot, but it will help more to keep weight to the outside edges. It's wht I call the dumbell effect. Imagine a 5' iron bar with two 50 lb plates on it. If the weights are in the middle and you're holding the thing, it's pretty easy to spin around in a circle and stop quickly. Now imagine the same weights out on the ends of the bar and trying to spin or stop spinning quickly -- it's a lot tougher.

Tipping the tractor to the side will be less likely if you get some weight to the outside edges -- wheel weights, loaded tires, or a wide rear implement.

Carrying a load any higher off the ground than needed to clear whatever you drive over increases the chances you might tip. Moving on hills any way but straight up or straight down the slope REALLY increases the chances you will have one or more wheels lose contact with the ground.

Going downhill with a heavy load means the tractor is already half way to standing on it's nose. Stop quickly, lower the load suddenly but not completely, or even rolling the bucket forward suddenly can generate enough momentum to bring the rear end up and then you get to either balance precariously on the front axle or spin around the pivot point and roll it.

Just go slow, keep the load just high enough to clear the ground, and work up to carrying heavier loads. Always stay highly tuned to how you feel about tipping. Since most of the newer tractors put the operator up pretty high over the roll center, your inner "tilt meter" will probably be going off loud and clear quite a while before the thing actually tips. The problems come when you decide you know better than that internal warning system and so ignore it.

 

[Spiveyman]

Wow, thanks to everyone who's chimed in so far. Some really great advice. I'll check out those other threads in a moment.

Keeping the load low, that certainly makes sense. COG and all that, very important. Going slow, while against my nature in most circumstances, I can see is a must. Sublte direction changes... all great advice. I will, by the way, read the manual as I am getting a new BH 2246 (I think that's the model). Here's a shot of my tractor, it's a 6610 II and does have filled tires:




One thing I hadn't thought about was having something on the 3pt. I don't have very many attachments as options there. Most of the stuff I have is light weight (I can pick it up), however I could load down the carry all you see peeking out the back of my tractor. I have a pretty decent sized rotary cutter, but that seems cumbersome to have back there while using the loader. I could pick up a round bale with a spear, that's certainly heavy, but doesn't seem very secure as it could slide off. Hmmm.... this carry all has a 1,000 lb capacity. I could load cinderblocks or something and strasp down with a ratchet deal. I did include hooks just in case I needed to strap something down. Do you think with filled tires (big filled tires at that) and a moderate load on the carry all that would be a good combo weight wise?



As for keeping it level.... well... this is central KY. We have gently rolling hills over most of the farm. This will give you an idea:





And a decently steep road that I'll be moving some things up/down:


I will certainly be encountering some slopes while using my loader, but I can probaby plan out my rout safely. By the way, I have also ordered a FOPS that should be here in about a week, so that should help with stuff falling out of the bucket, but I'll try to remember not to roll that sucker back when it's up high.

Also, great tip about relieving the pressure every now and then when pushing brush piles and such! That's the kind of thing that can save some headaches.