Tire Ballasts, Weights &c...

[TractorGunn]

While I have all forms of weight.....fluid in the tires, wheel weights, and heavy implements. Ballast/counterweight is based on needs.

Ballast in the tires alone is not enough for doing alot of loader work.

Tire ballast/wheel weights are also not enough for loader work.

Both are great for ground engaging rear implements. Like a disc, box blade, rear blade, etc. Because when in use....the weight of the implement is not on the tractor but on the ground. This makes your tractor light in the rear and easy to spin out due to lack of traction/weight.

A heavy rear implement is a far better match for front loader work....without the added cost of ballast in the tire or wheel weights.

If you don't plan on much in the way of heavy rear ground engaging implements....I'd honestly skip the hassle and go with weight on the 3PH.

Only if you plan on plowing, discing, or dragging around a blade.....then loaded tires can be of benefit

I'll be doing lots of brush hogging, maintaining about 2000' of gravel road via box blade. Will also be doing some discing, tilling, rock rake &c.

I'll look into adding weight at the 3PH. This is all new to me, any advice or knowledge is appreciated.

 

[LouNY]

So beet juice can cause the tires and wheels to slip independently from one another?

Yes it can and does, usually on compact or smaller tractors with R4 tires as low air pressure may nit be obvious on those tractors. It also happens at times with R1's on large higher hp tractors in hard pulling work.

 

[TractorGunn]

Yes it can and does, usually on compact or smaller tractors with R4 tires as low air pressure may nit be obvious on those tractors. It also happens at times with R1's on large higher hp tractors in hard pulling work.

Looks like a 3PH ballast box is a cheaper way to go, plus liquid filled tires.

 

[m7040]

did overkill it when I bought the M7040 with cast iron hubs, rim guard in tires and 2 sets of wheel cast iron disks. Also widened the stance by moving out the wheels.
But for loader work a ballast box or heavy implement is best to transfer the center of gravity towards the rear.
On the 50 hp MF it has calcium in the tires and heavy cast iron wheels. Valve seems to corrode and needs replacement once in while but no big deal to replace. Just turn the wheel so the valve stem is at the top of the wheel and replace them. The filled tires leave space in the upper part so the calcium does not drain out when changing the valve stem

 

[Typhoon]

Keep in mind.. when it comes to weight and ballast, it matters where you add the weight. So many tractor owners get this wrong, just as I did for so many years and several failed front wheel bearings! It's simple physics that we often overlook. So here is the scoop. If you look in your manual for the loader on your tractor, there will be a section that will tell you how much weight you need on your 3 point hitch when lifting with your loader. Weight on the 3 point hitch uses your rear axle as a fulcrum, and actually subtracts weight off of your front wheels, (like a teeter totter). If you don't have enough weight on your hitch and do a lot of loader work, you will eventually shred a front wheel bearing, guaranteed. Next, adding weight to your rear axle (either liquid ballast in the tires or bolt on wheel weights) will make your tractor more stable by lowering the center of gravity, while also increasing traction (by increasing weight). As for lowering the center of gravity, liquid ballast is superior, because of how far below the axle you can add the weight. The next best option is bolt on wheel weights. Hope that helps. On my tractor, MT3-57, my loader manual states that I need 1,300 lbs (if i remember right) on my 3 point hitch when doing heavy loader work.

 

[Hermio]

I have no clue about any of these, but realize that adding weight to the back of a tractor adds to its safety from flipping via using the loader, and in other situations.

My tractor dealer wants to add methanol to the tires at a price per gallon. He said it won't cause corrosion to the steel wheels. But then said the wheels don't need tubed. Afterwards I looked up methanol and read that it can corrode steel wheels and needs to be tubed.

Any advice and experience will be much appreciated.

Methanol is toxic and flammable. I suggest Rimguard instead.

 

[TractorGunn]

Keep in mind.. when it comes to weight and ballast, it matters where you add the weight. So many tractor owners get this wrong, just as I did for so many years and several failed front wheel bearings! It's simple physics that we often overlook. So here is the scoop. If you look in your manual for the loader on your tractor, there will be a section that will tell you how much weight you need on your 3 point hitch when lifting with your loader. Weight on the 3 point hitch uses your rear axle as a fulcrum, and actually subtracts weight off of your front wheels, (like a teeter totter). If you don't have enough weight on your hitch and do a lot of loader work, you will eventually shred a front wheel bearing, guaranteed. Next, adding weight to your rear axle (either liquid ballast in the tires or bolt on wheel weights) will make your tractor more stable by lowering the center of gravity, while also increasing traction (by increasing weight). As for lowering the center of gravity, liquid ballast is superior, because of how far below the axle you can add the weight. The next best option is bolt on wheel weights. Hope that helps. On my tractor, MT3-57, my loader manual states that I need 1,300 lbs (if i remember right) on my 3 point hitch when doing heavy loader work.

Thanks for the insight. I'll check the manual for what weight is needed, but as of now it looks like a ballast box and filled wheels will gain me about 1600 pounds.

 

[TimberFarm]

I have antifreeze in two of my tractors and no signs of corrosion on the one after two years. The other has had it in for about 15 years and nothing that I can tell.

 

[charlessenf]

Who will be handling the mounting of your rear tires if you get them filled.

Great question! Never thought of that aspect - always assuming I'd do it at home with the tires mounted and on the Kubota. Good catch!

 

[LouNY]

Great question! Never thought of that aspect - always assuming I'd do it at home with the tires mounted and on the Kubota. Good catch!

Have a service truck come out and they will do it with the tire mounted on the tractor.