Chains Tire chain considerations before purchase...

[stlbill]

Hi Gbomalley:

+1 on the NO CHAINS pile!

I plow concrete and asphalt driveways without chains with my 2305. My Winter configuration includes a 200CX loader with ~60" materials bucket, 3PH RB, JD Quickhitch and loaded rear tires. Tread pattern is R4 all the way around. My 3PH RB has a horse stall mat (rubber) edge for snow. I switch to the steel edge for ice.

In one place my driveway rises ~20 feet vertical in a ~100 foot linear distance. I can plow up, down or sideways on this hill. To make matters worse St. Louis, Missouri is at the latitude which receives almost as much freezing rain as snow.

In this configuration there was one time last year when I could not run the 2305 on the driveway...safely. That morning we received 0.25" of freezing rain. If you have been fortunate enough not to ever experience this weather it is literally a hockey rink!

Now the most snow we had in any storm was 8 inches. You will probably have more snow accumulation at your latitude and/or altitude. You made no mention of a FEL. Do you anticipate running out of places to push all that snow? I still think it is unlikely, but chains *MIGHT* come in handy if you run out of places to push snow and don't have a FEL to stack it.

Please let us know what you decide and how it works for you!

-Bill

 

[RoyJackson]

The ag handbooks make clear in their various tables that the max/min tire pressures quoted for various sizes are usually based on a maximum speed of 25 mph road speed for farm tractors. At that high speed considerable pressure is needed to prevent unnecessary sidewall flexing and to bear sudden vertical axle loads.

Yet, the manufacturers also give footnotes for operations at 5mph - 10 mph or lower, saying that the load bearing capacity of the tire is up to 80% higher at low speeds, such that lower tire pressures can be used.

Since the 3038e has a maximum speed of nearly 15 mph, Deere must cite minimum tire pressures than can bear axle loads at that speed. This is why I take the 12 psi minimum pressures in the rears as just a guide. R4 industrial tables usually show R4s to have tremendous load bearing capacity--in my case, the load bearing of just one rear R4 is more than the weight of the whole tractor at standard recommended inflation pressures!

I dont want to get any one in trouble here, so proceed cautiously. Keep in mind that if you lower your tire pressures below the recommended (all speed) minima, you must check tire pressures fastidiously as air temperature falls, otherwise you could get into some trouble, particularly in the smaller front tires.

Tim

In the agricultural world, I'd guess farmers raise (for road transport) and lower (for field work) tire pressures to meet the needs of the task at hand, just as they add or remove ballast to suit the task (I'm sure a farmer or two will jump in to support that statement or tell me I'm full of it).

But since this thread is discussing snow plowing, what farmers do isn't really relevent (unless they're plowing their drive).

Lowering pressure puts more of the tires' "foot print" on the ground, hence more traction. This is even recommended for road vehicles such as one's car or truck. Of course, it's expected that a person would add air pressure as soon as possible once the low traction area has been passed. It's really more of an emergency method to help one out of a sticky situation then a standard procedure for winter driving.
If I was stuck in a drift (with no loader to help push me out), I'd probably lower the pressure a few pounds as a last resort, but I sure wouldn't do it otherwise. Haven't had to do this (since I had a loader)...and after getting stuck several times during a blizzard in Feb 2010, I did the smart thing...got chains for my rear tires.

 

[High Compression]

I never use chains on my 4320 with weighted R4's and front plow on my driveway which is over 2000 ft of asphalt plus about 1800 sq ft of concrete in front of the garage. I have two medium hills and have never had trouble in 4wd. Every once in a while I have to use diff lock but that is rare.
Personally, I would not even purchase chains. Say good-bye to your nice driveway if you do use chains.

I agree, no chains necessary. I've been plowing with both my 2660 and 3030 for a few years now with roughly 250 hrs per season. I have yet to need chains and I know my customers appreciate me not tearing up their pavement. I use loaded turf tires and get great traction even on ice.:thumbsup:

 

[fuseboxer]

I do not want to go with minimum air pressure to max grip but do plan to use less air. Most people, me included, have max air in their tires and this is the least traction. Compromise never use max nor min go with the mean pressure= .7 X max.

 

[stlbill]

Hi guys:

I work on hills so both sets of rear tires for my tractor are loaded with Rimguard. I was told not to adjust or even check the pressure in them unless they look low.

 

[Red Horse]

Another thought on chains with turfs. My 3320 has loaded turfs and I have a weight block that is about 550 lbs. I have a 6' meyers power angler on my 300CX. My drive is about 700 ft of gravel but I also help out my neighbor when I feel he is done playing with his walk behind blower. He has a very nice asphalt drive (about 300 ft.) and I have to say I don't think I have ever left a mark.

Key point with turfs, I think the biggest advantage of the chains might even be the added weight as a high percentage of the cross links end up "imbedded" between the lugs. Oh-the other thing, I'm one of those old guys that believes you DON"T have to run your hydro at 2500 RPM. Our snowfall last year was I believe in the area of 120".

Bottom line, I'd rather have them. You never know when you are going to get that 1/2" of freezing rain and then it turns into wet heavy snow.

 

[whistlepig]

Chains are sweet. They are well worth the expense and time to mount. A ballast box makes things even better with my filled R4 tires and chains. Buy ladder chains with no gaps between the links and the ride will be much better.

 

[Gizmo2]

Another thought on chains with turfs. My 3320 has loaded turfs and I have a weight block that is about 550 lbs. I have a 6' meyers power angler on my 300CX. My drive is about 700 ft of gravel but I also help out my neighbor when I feel he is done playing with his walk behind blower. He has a very nice asphalt drive (about 300 ft.) and I have to say I don't think I have ever left a mark.

Key point with turfs, I think the biggest advantage of the chains might even be the added weight as a high percentage of the cross links end up "imbedded" between the lugs. Oh-the other thing, I'm one of those old guys that believes you DON"T have to run your hydro at 2500 RPM. Our snowfall last year was I believe in the area of 120".

Bottom line, I'd rather have them. You never know when you are going to get that 1/2" of freezing rain and then it turns into wet heavy snow.

20 years of snow plowing my asphalt driveway and NEVER take my rear chains off, never left a mark on the driveway. Maybe I'm lucky. Freezing rain and 1/4" of ice I even put chains on the front. Having the chains is....well, to quote someone, not sure who, Luck is the moment when Preparation meets Opportunity!

 

[lungdoc]

Need for chains varies immensely with the amount of hill and the type of conditions you experience. I wouldn't go without them for my needs. I definitely wouldn't do front only, either rear only or both front and rear (I do both but am never on hard surfaces).

 

[whistlepig]

20 years of snow plowing my asphalt driveway and NEVER take my rear chains off, never left a mark on the driveway. Maybe I'm lucky. Freezing rain and 1/4" of ice I even put chains on the front. Having the chains is....well, to quote someone, not sure who, Luck is the moment when Preparation meets Opportunity!

I have studded chains. If I spin them on asphalt they will leave grooves. My driveway is gravel.