Chains Tire chain considerations before purchase...

[JD 4520]

I will be using my JD 4520 for plowing a 1200' driveway this winter. The driveway is all hard surface (asphalt & concrete) and has some moderate elevation change. I anticipate needing chains on the front tires. What experience good or bad or other considerations should I consider in my purchase of chains? Your advice will be greatly appreciated.

 

[AKfish]

I will be using my JD 4520 for plowing a 1200' driveway this winter. The driveway is all hard surface (asphalt & concrete) and has some moderate elevation change. I anticipate needing chains on the front tires. What experience good or bad or other considerations should I consider in my purchase of chains? Your advice will be greatly appreciated.

Don't buy a V-bar link chain! Your hard surfaces will look like a grizzly bear's been chasin' ground squirrel's back and forth all winter!

You will want a chain that is a flat link with a H crossbar - it will help keep the chain above the tire lugs - not down inside them.

AKfish

 

[Gizmo2]

Don't buy a V-bar link chain! Your hard surfaces will look like a grizzly bear's been chasin' ground squirrel's back and forth all winter!

You will want a chain that is a flat link with a H crossbar - it will help keep the chain above the tire lugs - not down inside them.

AKfish

:thumbsup:

 

[brewdog]

I'd put weight in the tires and keep it in 4wd and forget the chains. The chains destroy the surface of the concrete and in a year you will see chip spots where the chains scratched the cement and the water migrated down. When it freezes, small round circular divots will appear on the surface of the cement. The asphalt will scratch but I'm not sure what other damage will occur, since i've never had asphalt. When I've had to use them, I only put them on the front tires and I stay off the concrete.

 

[RoyJackson]

I will be using my JD 4520 for plowing a 1200' driveway this winter. The driveway is all hard surface (asphalt & concrete) and has some moderate elevation change. I anticipate needing chains on the front tires. What experience good or bad or other considerations should I consider in my purchase of chains? Your advice will be greatly appreciated.

What kind of tires do you have? That will be one factor...
And, mild changes in elevation won't necessarily require an aggressive chain type (buddy of mine does a pretty steep drive with 2 link ladder chains on the rear tires (R-1 Ag tires, BTW)).

My suggestions are:
1) to call www.tirechains.com and get their recommendations.

2) ordering your chains before winter as they may not be available if you wait.

3) get chains for the rear tires only and learn to use your steering brakes

You may not even need to use 4WD with chains, BTW. The friend I referred to earlier did, initially, mar his asphalt drive. He learned to not make abrupt or sharp turns (especially when turning around) and eliminated any marring or scuffing on the asphalt.

 

[JD 4520]

Good input on the not using chains. I really hope not to use them for the reasons you state but not really sure how my tractor will handle on the snow. I will soon find out. Thanks

 

[sunnyside360]

Good input on the not using chains. I really hope not to use them for the reasons you state but not really sure how my tractor will handle on the snow. I will soon find out. Thanks

I never use chains on my 4320 with weighted R4's and front plow on my driveway which is over 2000 ft of asphalt plus about 1800 sq ft of concrete in front of the garage. I have two medium hills and have never had trouble in 4wd. Every once in a while I have to use diff lock but that is rare.
Personally, I would not even purchase chains. Say good-bye to your nice driveway if you do use chains.

 

[beenthere]

I too agree that you will likely not need the chains, but I'd recommend getting a pair to have on hand for those few times the snow/ice conditions are such that chains will get you of trouble (or keep you from getting in trouble).
Getting stuck in a snow drift, or on a patch of ice, or hung up when the slush below turns to ice and being completely helpless is not one bit o fun.
I use front chains for just those very few times needed. And I still have a nice driveway, both concrete and asphalt.

 

[fuseboxer]

See posting for wheel weights for 3038E from a few days back. Much traction improvement by lowering the tire pressure. Quote below.

Bronze Member


Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 69 Re: Wheel weights for 3038E with R4 tires

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Troy,
My dealer verified that he could order wheel weights for this tractor, but if better traction is what you're after I would go with the advice of all the Ag tire manufacturers first: Make sure your tires are not over-inflated. I now run the rear, unfilled R4s in my 3038e at 9.5 psi, which has dramatically improved traction. My fronts are 16.5 psi but I don't have a loader. I have never noticed rim slip nor any problems with these pressures, and the ride on this short-wheelbase tractor is much better. You might want to try this first before spending the money on weights.
Tim

Perhaps a little more air than Tim suggests and a little less than you now have may improve your traction and prevent your need for chains. I will lower my tire pressure but not as low as Tim and hope to improve my snow traction

 

[msmud]

The ag handbooks make clear in their various tables that the max/min tire pressures quoted for various sizes are usually based on a maximum speed of 25 mph road speed for farm tractors. At that high speed considerable pressure is needed to prevent unnecessary sidewall flexing and to bear sudden vertical axle loads.

Yet, the manufacturers also give footnotes for operations at 5mph - 10 mph or lower, saying that the load bearing capacity of the tire is up to 80% higher at low speeds, such that lower tire pressures can be used.

Since the 3038e has a maximum speed of nearly 15 mph, Deere must cite minimum tire pressures than can bear axle loads at that speed. This is why I take the 12 psi minimum pressures in the rears as just a guide. R4 industrial tables usually show R4s to have tremendous load bearing capacity--in my case, the load bearing of just one rear R4 is more than the weight of the whole tractor at standard recommended inflation pressures!

I dont want to get any one in trouble here, so proceed cautiously. Keep in mind that if you lower your tire pressures below the recommended (all speed) minima, you must check tire pressures fastidiously as air temperature falls, otherwise you could get into some trouble, particularly in the smaller front tires.

See the two links below, the first being an excellent University of Kentucky summary, the second being the full Michelin Ag Handbook. Look at the wide range of acceptable pressures in the U of K example, down to 6 psi. Note also the warning to lower your pressures as much as is consistent with supporting the axle load.
http://www.ca.uky.edu/agc/pubs/aen/aen93/aen93.pdf

See pages 12 - 13 for compact tractor R1 specs at low speed in the Michelin Ag handbook:
http://www.michelinag.com/agx/en-US/products/product_detail_pages/09Michelin AG_DataBook.pdf

Hope this helps.
Tim