Tire chains

[doelake]

Hi Pointyhairedboss,
sorry for the delay in replying but we were away skiing on Mt. Tremblant, Quebec:thumbsup:
I have about 4km of roadway that I keep open all winter in my resort. Because we are located on a hillside overlooking Doe Lake, some of my roadway is up a 10% grade. Prior to installing studs, I would have to race up the hillside and blow down grade, now I can blow any depth of snow backwards uphill with no slip...in fact, I also blow some areas across grade with no side slip! The studs I used are 1/4" ice heads with a threaded shank of 1/2". I have taken some photos and posted them on the gallery. The R-4 tires will show virtually no wear when the studs are removed in Spring, they are inexpensive and are "set and forget" each fall. So far I found no downside to installation and use! i also photographed a track in the snow showing the stud imprint going uphill with no slip.
Regards,
Anthony

 

[PointyHairedBoss]

Hi Pointyhairedboss,
sorry for the delay in replying but we were away skiing on Mt. Tremblant, Quebec:thumbsup:
I have about 4km of roadway that I keep open all winter in my resort. Because we are located on a hillside overlooking Doe Lake, some of my roadway is up a 10% grade. Prior to installing studs, I would have to race up the hillside and blow down grade, now I can blow any depth of snow backwards uphill with no slip...in fact, I also blow some areas across grade with no side slip! The studs I used are 1/4" ice heads with a threaded shank of 1/2". I have taken some photos and posted them on the gallery. The R-4 tires will show virtually no wear when the studs are removed in Spring, they are inexpensive and are "set and forget" each fall. So far I found no downside to installation and use! i also photographed a track in the snow showing the stud imprint going uphill with no slip.
Regards,
Anthony

Thanks for the information. In doing a bit of research, studs sounded like a good idea to me but its great to get that validated by someone using them - especially someone in the same geographical area.

I ended up buying a Holder machine - photos here:
Holder 240 snow machine. - TractorByNet.com

I have to do a bit of maintenance on it before I take it north but I'll add studs to the list of stuff I have to order.

 

[Tractorganic]

I looked up studs on the web. The dealers say ice studs are for ice, chains are for snow. I installed a pair of v bar Duo-Ladder Combo 3/8 cross chain and heavy duty spring tensioners on my New Holland TC40D's rear industrial 17.5-24 tires. I bucket cleared about an acre ofdriveway, farm roads and equipment area turning with one brake pedal (excellent traction). I then got into a road edge w/ softer sub-layer of gravel and got my right rear wheel stuck to the rim with left to follow. These wheels and chains cut through ground like a sidewheeler river boat cuts water. A friend and some serious shoveling rocked it free and I filled in the holes with fresh gravel.
My BCS 2 wheeled tractor w/ snow thrower needs chains but with the big tires on there's only 1 in. of clearance so I'm going to try studs. Besides, when the 3 ft. of snow we got melts in stages, there's ice underneath. I'll let you know how it works.

 

[Tractorganic]

Forgot to mention: Chain clearance was ok, without messing w/ the tires, after install but when backing nasty noises indicated chain hitting PTO sway bar which had a triangular 3 pt. hitch receiver on. So I removed the receiver and swung the bars in and locked 'em in 3rd hole. Then AOK but, I worry re/ adding my Farmi winch, or re-fitting the receiver hitch for rear towing, both of which require spreading the sway bars back to where they might get hit by chain.
Additionally, After getting stuck I remounted the backhoe. Now; between hoe and filled rear tires, I have added 2400 lbs. on the rear axle for traction, plus ths Swiss army knife-like hoe to get out of jams and remove snow from tight places.

 

[doelake]

I've posted some pictures on the members gallery, I don't know how to attach them here...I will say that my roadway heading uphill has a steep side slope at the ditch and, before installing the studs I would risk sliding over the side which would cause the tractor to flip The fender clearance on my new M59 is very tight whereas my old 35hp Massey Ferguson could accept chains without a problem of interference whether they were tensioned or not...the studs just offer an inexpensive solution and I can attest they work incredibly well under all the conditions I have put them under:thumbsup:

 

[grsthegreat]

ive never had to use chains before...as my old jd870 had ag tires and only slid occasionally. after getting the new kioti with r4 tires,i can tell that it will slip more. it already has in the little playing around that ive been able to do. i will be purchasing a set of rear chains for it soon. i have plenty of clearance between tires and fenders. i do hate chains, but id hate getting stuck more. especially if i op for the loader mounted blower package im thinking about getting. were on gravel roads here, and only park on concrete slab. i guess ill place plywood on the concrete as others have suggested.

 

[Green Acres Homestead]

I recently moved to the hills of Cape Breton. I have a couple of driveways to do and looking at getting studs for the tires of my 17.5 x 24 tires. I was wondering how the studs run on pavement. Are they loud or rough? It may be all I need if I stud all 4 tires saving the cost of chains.

Also will they mark a pave driveway.
Are they rough at road speeds of 20 km/hour. (18 miles in hour)

 

[Wolfy]

I got a pair of 17.5 x 24 chains for about $300, 10 years ago. I have never used studs, but doubt they grip like chains do.

 

[doelake]

I recently moved to the hills of Cape Breton. I have a couple of driveways to do and looking at getting studs for the tires of my 17.5 x 24 tires. I was wondering how the studs run on pavement. Are they loud or rough? It may be all I need if I stud all 4 tires saving the cost of chains.

Also will they mark a pave driveway.
Are they rough at road speeds of 20 km/hour. (18 miles in hour)

If your tractor can accommodate chains, it's probably the best first choice.....they are fairly easy to install and remove, offer great traction, loud when driving with possible frame slap, and become cost effective given the length of time used over a period of years.....

that being said, my M-59's fender clearance would not allow for chains without causing damage to the body or frame.....studs are cheaper, amazingly effective, quiet on roads with little damage to surfaces driven on.... I placed 3 studs per lug on R-4s.... you will lose some with wheel spin through the winter..... there hasn't been a downside in my opinion

Good luck with your choice.....

 

[PILOON]

Both chains and studs will mark drives if you spin or skid.
But I find with my every 3'd link cross ice (stud) chains do not mark while as 5's they did.
I determined it was because with 3's there is no space between links to start a slip. With the 3's there is always 2 links in contact with the road surface.
OK, if I push a huge pile of snow going uphill and step on the gas I will spin and mark the pavement.