I was anticipating the 'this was your fault' response as I would have thought the same thing. But to be quite frank, if I have to do a complete checklist on a brand new tractor that costs 25k before using each time, then there is a problem with what these boys in green are delivering. In addition, I do in fact walk around the tractor, and wash it and check the oil and air pressure and the like. Am guessing you posters didn't check your torque on your tractor the last time you climbed on and I didn't either. Will see what JD says but at this point they are accepting responsibility for not shipping them torqued to spec. I really do appreciate the posts.
It's not really about fault/blame as I see it. It IS about being aware of what happens when things are in their initial break-in period. Whether JD torqued the lug nuts/bolts before delivery to you, or even checked the torque on them is somewhat irrelevant. Why? Because when bolts are new they can stretch and this will cause looseness and result in exactly what you experienced. How do I know? I owned and ran a foreign auto repair and sales shop. We did seasonal changeover of snows to summer tires and always recommended the customer return within 50 miles of driving to retorque the lug nuts.
And with a new tractor everything vibrates to the point of coming loose. :Loader to frame/chassis bolts are particularly susceptible because of the tremendous forces in play when lifting a bucket of whatever, etc. Things don't tighten themselves in use. They do work loose and that is the way of things mechanical. It is also why aircraft bolts/nuts are wired at torqued spec- so they can't come loose in flight.
Once lug bolts have gone through stretching and have been torqued properly several times they will stop stretching and will remain in place, for the most part, IF torqued properly, in sequence, to spec. Loader frame bolts may or may not do the same. It depends on the stresses, the bolt and the original holes drilled by the manufacturer.
My own loader frame bolts were too short and started coming loose on one side. I had to substitute longer bolts that would go further into the factory drilled holes AND LockTite the threads to keep them from working loose. I check them periodically and most stay tight. I know of other's with my model who stripped out the originals and had to remove the entire loader frame and drill through the original bolt holes and install bolts with nuts on the end. This is not something one wants to have to do if at all avoidable.
My point is new things take certain input from the owner/operator to keep things in check. Tractors are more this way than cars, for the most part, because the use if vastly different.
So, again I suggest making up a checklist from your owner's manual and follow it - or don't. Your choice.:confused3:
