Tire loading AGAIN!!

[GregJ]

Tawoo,
Be sure to read my posts ("Tire Loading Trouble") on the experience I had loading my tires. I have the same machine as you and had to learn the hard way. Our tires (12-16.5) require tubes and at least 30lbs. of air pressure. They are a different type of wheel and will not hold a bead at lower pressure.

Good Luck,
Greg

 

[B7500]

Greg,
When you say our tires require tubes do you mean we have them now or you had to add them to load the tires?
I have no problem letting the dealer do it and paying the bucks but I just want to make sure it would make a difference and not be a waste of money.
Thanks for your reply.

 

[GregJ]

Terry,
The tubes have to be added. It cost me about $18 each, installed. I installed the ww fluid. I finally had the method down on the second tire. Since the tubes are industrial, not Ag, they don't have a threaded stem, so the only thing holding the stem in place is the internal air/fluid pressure. One tool that would have made this process a little easier would have been a hemostat, or some very slender locking plier that you could lock on the valve stem while you were filling and replacing the valve. I used a pair of needle nose with a hose clamp holding it in place. It worked, but I think there is a better tool. It has to be very slender, because the stem guard on the rim has very little access. After you fill the tire, be ready for the "water balloon" effect when you remove the adapter and put the valve back in the stem. Have buckets ready under the wheel. My first wheel all I had was a towel and I was holding the stem with needle nose pliers with my right hand and trying to screw the valve in with my left with fluid flying everywhere in my shop and I couldn't let go of the pliers. Fortunately for me, the shop door was closed and my wife was nowhere is sight. Otherwise I think she and the neighbors would still be laughing. That is why it is important to have both hands free when you get to that stage. One good thing is I ended up with the shop floor cleaner than it's been in years.

I mentioned in my earlier post about tire pressure. I started out with about 12lbs. pressure. When I test drove the tractor to the end of our road and back, the tire and tube spun on the rim and buried the valve stem sideways in the stem guard. That was a lot of fun to fix. After returning to the tire shop one more time I learned that this type of rim and tire require at least 30lbs to stay seated.

Now that it is done, if asked would I do it again? ..... Probably. It is a relatively inexpensive process that might add a fraction of extra ballast that I might need someday. Hopefully I will be smart enough to never put myself in a position to need it, but I like knowing it's there. Good luck.

Greg

 

[Anonymous Poster]

<font color="blue"> Tawoo,
Be sure to read my posts ("Tire Loading Trouble") on the experience I had loading my tires. </font>

Good point GregJ!

I forgot about your sad story, as it was so different from my tire loading experience I guess!

I wonder if for some reason you just had bad luck...or if ALL guys with those 16.5 inch wheels have the same problems. My B2910 rear wheels are tire size 12.4 x 16...

Tawoo after remembering GregJ's tale of woe, I would at least post a question here asking other b7500 owners if they had success loading thier tires themselves before undertaking the job myself. [Trusting my memory here on the tractor size but as I type this I think that is what you both have].

In many cases you just let the air out and pump the fluid in and you are done with it. I still can't believe the hardship GregJ went through... I think it would scare me away from trying it myself unless I got some reports of others with the same tractor being able to do it their selves without problems...

 

[Gary]

I'm no expert but I'll throw my 2c in. I loaded the rears on my L3010 last year. My dealer talked me out of it at first as well. However after nearly rolling over after I had a bucket full of rocks heading across a field (front right tire dropped in an unseen hole), I decided to do it anyway, lawn compression be damned. I went the washer fluid route and other than getting all the bottles home from WalMart, it went fine. By an extra bottle or two more than you need before you start to allow for "shrinkage" between bottles. I just followed the same threads I'm sure you found. The key is not letting the bead break on the rim, jack the wheel up completely. Also make sure to check the freeze rating on the fuild so you don't get the summer mix.

This made a big difference in stability and traction for me. I definately don't regret doing it.