Flail Mower Titan Flail mower

[Fallon]

Welding on something with bearings is fine with proper grounding. Put the ground clamp on the material being welded, not on the far side of the bearing. And make sure it's on good clean bare metal. Grind a clean spot as close as possible if need be. You only run into issues if the electricity is trying to flow across the bearing.

 

[hawk10]

I added some 4x1/4 angle to the back of my housing along with some gauge wheels, and I welded the bolt on lower lift arm support brackets because they keep coming loose. I added the gauge wheels because I am tired of the roller bearings digging into the dirt and/or my asphalt driveway when I am on side hills. I am hoping that the angle will keep it from twisting or bending. I am still trying to figure out the best way to reinforce the top link support, but I also built a top link "float bracket" to go between the mower and the top link (you can see it sitting on the right rear tractor tire in one of the pictures). This should take most of the stress off of the supports when mowing but not during transport, I also figured that it would be more necessary to let the back float since I have wheels further back. Please excuse the welds in these pictures, they are not as pretty as I would like because this is the first time that I have ever used a stick welder on a project instead of a MIG.

 

[Boxman]

Here are a couple of mods I've made to my Titan flail. One to make it iMatch compatible and one to reinforce the 3point tower before it fails.

 

[Boxman]

BTW, this is a great match for the powdercoat color: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013LT52WW

 

[troverman]

Hope it works out well for you.

30 hours of mowing later, the mounting station weld repair is hanging in there.

 

[Vorlock]

I bought a Titan 72" 3-Point Flail Mower with Hydraulic Side Shift. This was my first flail mower. First lesson learned, this is not a bush hog. I ruined the belts the first day. Second lesson learned the part number for the belt GB/T1154-97 on the parts list is bogus. I'm guessing all of the part numbers are bogus and have no meaning in the real world. I contacted Titan support it took them about a week, but they came up with a part number and a supplier. It turns out the belt is a Gates B39. If anyone has an EFG Flail Mower, they all appear to be the same, here is a supplier for the belts.

 

[troverman]

My belts failed after a year. I contacted Titan and they told me they could only give me new belts if it was a warranty situation, which mine wasn't. The belts themselves have a part number on them, but it is a Chinese made belt. I searched high and low and the best I could do was find some in China they would sell me for $17 each and $150 shipping and up to 16 weeks delivery time. No thanks. But I found another company who made the same Chinese part number, and lo and behold they had an 'alternate part number' to an American Dayco belt. My local parts stores cross-referenced the Dayco to the Gates B39 mentioned, which works just fine. Titan's part numbers are just their own internal part numbers, useless to the customer.

 

[thekkfan]

I bought a Titan 72" 3-Point Flail Mower with Hydraulic Side Shift. This was my first flail mower. First lesson learned, this is not a bush hog. I ruined the belts the first day. Second lesson learned the part number for the belt GB/T1154-97 on the parts list is bogus. I'm guessing all of the part numbers are bogus and have no meaning in the real world. I contacted Titan support it took them about a week, but they came up with a part number and a supplier. It turns out the belt is a Gates B39. If anyone has an EFG Flail Mower, they all appear to be the same, here is a supplier for the belts.

View attachment 615310

7.16 at RockAuto. But may want to find a kevlar belt cross ref.

 

[def38]

I added some 4x1/4 angle to the back of my housing along with some gauge wheels, and I welded the bolt on lower lift arm support brackets because they keep coming loose. I added the gauge wheels because I am tired of the roller bearings digging into the dirt and/or my asphalt driveway when I am on side hills. I am hoping that the angle will keep it from twisting or bending. I am still trying to figure out the best way to reinforce the top link support, but I also built a top link "float bracket" to go between the mower and the top link (you can see it sitting on the right rear tractor tire in one of the pictures). This should take most of the stress off of the supports when mowing but not during transport, I also figured that it would be more necessary to let the back float since I have wheels further back. Please excuse the welds in these pictures, they are not as pretty as I would like because this is the first time that I have ever used a stick welder on a project instead of a MIG.


View attachment 610698View attachment 610699View attachment 610700

With the gauge wheels attached, can the rear roller be removed altogether when mowing? If so, does it improve mower performance?

 

[Vorlock]

the Gates B39 mentioned, which works just fine.

Glad to hear that. I'm still waiting on my Gates B39 to arrive. I was worried that I might have been too trusting in recommending them without first installing the belts.