Titan SSQA kit

[Btown]

My Titan SSQA kit just arrived and I am wondering if anyone has any pointers on the best way to install. I have a 1996 Ford 1920. What is the best way to attach the ears? Cut them off the bucket piece by piece or cut around the ears through the bucket. Also when attaching the plate to the back of the bucket. How high does it need to be mounted from the bottom of the bucket. There were no directions with the parts. Just wondering if anyone has the easiest way.

Thanks. Glenn

 

[puckgrinder85]

I just did this to mine. I assume you got the big *** red one that weighs about 150lbs? First off, make sure it fits onto a quick attach plate. Mine would not due to a gusset hitting the bottom edge of the QA plate on the bottom side, near the quick attach pin itself. I just cut part of this gusset off, along with about 50lbs of material in certain spots that I did not need due to weight. This thing is really overbuilt for a small(er) tractor and would be more for a skidsteer.

What I did was took a 4.5 inch cutoff wheel in my air cutoff tool and cut the welds for the ear to bucket connection. Depending on how yours is welded this may or may not be the best way. Mine was stich welded and the larger cutoff wheel allows you to slice very close to parallel to the bucket as possible to get the most weld off of it as you will be grinding this off later if you don't. After I got those cut off I ground down the back of the bucket flat and tacked on the QA plate where I thought it should be and left it at that. I slapped the QA adaptor onto the bucket and locked it in and then proceeded to pin on the bucket ears to the loader. From there I could drive the tractor up to the bucket and see where everything would line up and measured it centered and ended up tacking it on in a few spots so I could lift and articulate the bucket to make sure I had no issues, etc...

Getting the ears off the bucket were the worst part of it. Getting everything else setup and lined up right isn't too bad, but you really need to cut the ears off first and go from there. The only issue I had was my bucket isn't flat all the way down on the back and my cylinder dump stopper was forward of the point of a straight down cut. If you just have straight bucket ears all the way down you'll have a much easier time than I had.

I also cut off a lot of excess metal on the unit too. I even capped off the top (near the handle pivot) with the extra metal I cut off. If you would like picture I could get some for you tomorrow.

 

[Btown]

Yes I have the red one. Pictures would be great. I'm going to get some pallet forks to move round bails for my horses. I currently use a three point hitch spear. It gets old in the cold winters here in the northeast.

 

[techwrtr2]

I've been looking at that kit. Is there any reason why you wouldn't want to cut away the piece tying the two sides together? For me a method to save weight.

How do they ship it?

 

[puckgrinder85]

The piece between is what holds each arm at the same position when you disconnect from your bucket or whatever attachment. If you were to unpin your bucket and try to work the dump/ curl function of the loader only one of the cylinders would operate (the one with least drag) and you'd never be able to hook anything up. Yes, something needs to be in between both quick attach arms, no it does not need to be that massive! Like I said its overbuilt but it is what it is. I have mine on a 32hp Ex3200 and I didn't really notice and lifting capacity issues or anything like that. If you have a larger loader I wouldn't worry about it at all. I will post pictures up but basically I cut off some of the sharp corners at an angle to not only reduce weight but make it look better and be a little safer as well. I also cut off much metal on the top of where the bucket pin on ears would attach as I did not need it all as my ears were not that large.

 

[k0ua]

The torque tube between the two pads needs to be massive. If you twist it, and that has been done with plenty of QA adapters you will find out how massive it needs to be. Some users have had to cut the torque tube, and reweld it to get the pads to line back up in the same plane. If you remove that tube, you have destroyed your QA adapter.

 

[puckgrinder85]

Nah, doesn't need to be massive. The tube is just there to align the pads, it may give a little more rigidity but only as byproduct for its need to be there anyway. If people are bending those tubes its from misuse or not having their attachments connected properly. If you're twisting your bucket/ attachment enough to twist this tube in the process that constitutes as misuse and you're likely coming back with a bent bucket as well. The attachment is the stressed member, as standard pin on units don't use it (for obvious reasons) but even so these attachments do not bend out of shape without misuse. Once the attachment is on you should in theory be able to cut the middle cross member out and it will work just the same until you happen to remove said attachment.

Here's a few pics of the titan setup on mine. I reworked it quite a bit from the original but it works for me. Buying attachments is that much easier, cheaper and availability shot through the roof.

 

[puckgrinder85]

Note that I cut off the top of the mounting area to gain visibility to the top lip to hook up attachment and bolted a top plate (saved from the excess metal cut off) to retain the access to the lever mechanism in case something were to break or what have you. I had planned on welding it but there would be no way to service it after that. My locking pins were also mounted backwards when I got the QA. The bevel was facing frontwards when it needs to be facing the tractor, I simply removed the pin and flipped it 180*.

 

[Btown]

Thanks for the pics. Can't wait to get it attached

 

[Btown]

I've been looking at that kit. Is there any reason why you wouldn't want to cut away the piece tying the two sides together? For me a method to save weight. How do they ship it?

It was shipped on a tractor trailer on a pallet.