TN series (TN 55, 60, 65, 70, 75): adding a 3rd and 4th remote to the rear hydraulic valve stack.

[mojoinco]

I spent a lot of time trying to figure out the parts I would need to add to a cab tractor (limited to 4 valves due to cab interference; the non-cab may be able to go higher). You can also have some (2 or 3) valves under the cab (later versions of this model series I believe). Not sure the official line on this. Nor if one were to attempt to install 4+ 2 (under cab) if the pipes would all fit correctly (I suspect they would). This discussion is related to the mechanical lifter -- no idea how the electric lifters work.

Turns out the diagrams I found on line (CNH or Messicks pages) are more for identifying what you would need if you are repairing (replacing parts) on an existing build.

I called Messicks to confirm I was in the right area. The CSR sent me to a specialist for add ons like this. He sent me the instruction sets for a 3rd remote hydraulic kit and a 4th remote hydraulic kit. I combined the parts lists (a couple of things in the 3rd remote kit aren't used with a 4th remote installation). I'll try to add the pdf's. A few things are NLA (no longer available), but I was able to find them. I have a left over box of parts from a TN75S I bought via Ebay. They had ordered a TN75S and it already had the remotes required. The 33LA came with the under cab remotes kit. Or at least the remotes, as no cables nor plumbing were in the box. I did get 3 remotes (one is NLA). I'll add 2 of them to my standard 2 that came with the tractor.

The kit part numbers are 719366020 & 718366020. Lots of substitutions of parts have been made, so you may be able to find intermediate part numbers (or the latest number of course).

I have a wood shop, so I plan on making the handles/knobs. $40 for a knob (and $27 for the other one) feels like a burn I don't want. I'll either have a buddy make them on a 3d printer or I have pretty complete woodshop and I'll make my own. Grr....

I am going to add a 3rd set of lines to my loader (33LA) from one of the remotes. Third function kit. Seems to have been made by Rhino. 716662026. Out of ignorance I ordered the bulkhead panel (NLA) that mounts to the cross bar of the loader. The rest look like something I can have made at (or bought from) the Parker hydraulics store. They likely sell something like the bulkhead panel (one could always make it of cours). This should be the link when/if you search for part number:

https://www.rhinoag.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/2-6688-Third_Function_Solenoid_Selctor_Valve_Kit-1-05-2004.pdf

If nothing else (parts that are NLA), you have the specs required.

I'll update along the way of installing this bag of stuff. Should be interesting. Seems straight forward (he says as he skips happily into the dragons lair). Hope this helps someone else.

 

[mojoinco]

Ordered 3' of all thread from McMaster-Carr. $30 shipped versus $40 each (x3) from New Holland. Will cut these to 3x 10" pieces. NH calls them 'tie-rod'. Through bolts that hold the remote stack together.

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

 

[mojoinco]

Well, I installed the #3 & 4 remotes, no particular issues once I started. The first return pipe was the wrong pipe (bought an NOS pipe that had a tag attached saying it was returned as defective -- fingered out it was the standard 2 remote pipe). Check your parts in advance of disassembly (I had planned on starting the next day; had to delay a week).

I installed top and tilt cylinders. One was a gift from a neighbor, the other a used one that I bought with a used exhaust pipe (I converted from an under cab to vertical exhaust). The cylinder I bought is leaking (rusted shaft), and not a 'piloted' cylinder (the pilot circuit releases a check valve allowing the cylinder to move when you command it to; it is a safety feature, especially valuable if you are using a/b switches). Probably cost me as much to ship it as it did to buy it. That's okay. Proof of concept at the very least.

It was a fairly simple procedure. The manual being next to useless (very few actual fastener torque requirements are listed, but there's a table for them if they chose to use it). The PDF files above were all the information I needed.

 

[Tractor2Big4Me]

Thank you for posting this. I bought a fairly pristine (580 hr) TN65 last summer--it's way too big for what I really need (my last tractor was 26 hp), but I love the power. The only thing I was sad about was the fact that both remotes are used for the loader. I would like to have at least one spare--I know they could be equipped with up to four remotes, but I could not find the complete kit to add a remote. I was debating about adding an A/B switch on the tilt function, but I wasn't sure if that would be more trouble than it is worth.

I appreciate the information!

 

[Harry in Ky]

It's your choice of course, but if it were my project I would simply add a dedicated power beyond joystick valve for the loader and leave the existing remote stack alone. Getting all the right parts, (tubes tie bolts, hardware, etc) isn't worth the cost and effort in my opinion. Others may disagree, but having been through the "add more valves to the remote stack" a few times on TN series tractors, that's not the direction I would take.

 

[mojoinco]

All I can say is it wasn't hard to do, plus I had to spend some quality time up close. A few things got lubricated that were long overdue (ball & sockets joints or spherical bearings). Once I had the correct parts information (odd that the regular parts manual wasn't particularly accurate) it was as simple as it looks (I posted the parts list pdf's, look there for the parts needed). I did buy the remains of an add on kit (a tractor was purchased with a joystick and remotes, the additional loader was kitted with an add on set of under cab remotes that were not needed). I ended up with what ever wasn't used. I only needed the levers and plastic bushings, cables, the return pipe, made the through bolts (well, studs); the kit had a lot of extra seals, as a couple slid off while installing the remotes. I ended up with one extra remote, and some hardware bits and pieces. And short one knob (too cheap to spend $27 or $40 plus shipping). Some of the parts were NOS, some new, some junkyard. The studs I made because I wasn't paying $40x3 for them. Just bought a 3' stick of ~grade 5 (McMaster-Carr; I didn't compare tensile strength to the grade 5 standard, just bought the middle strength with exterior gold/brass coating); ~$30.

A couple of parts are NLA. Easy enough as it turned out. Junkyard and NOS solved that. A few other parts were 'no' based on simplicity vs price. Like the exhaust (a mix of new and NLA) conversion. Still don't understand why anyone would spec a cab with under cab exhaust. Pointless.

I can go any way I want now with the additional remotes. Including A/B switches for an articulating rear blade (my current one is not set up for that and might just be too light in any case). But the top and tilt will be a useful addition for both dirt work and snow removal (means I can adjust in real time). It will be especially useful with my box scrapper. A single remote with A/B switch (and piloted cylinders) would work as well. I assume the A/B switch is the same as a power beyond set up.

Those hours and this old? That TN65 didn't get a lot of use.

I was looking at buying a TC35 when events took a turn to the better (my wife fell in love with and bought an LS125 skidsteer; the smallest ride in unit that you can buy). That freed me up to buy larger. Which meant my collection of 6' implements I'd been building up (I had a mid 50s Case VAC14 training tractor) all went away. Bummer too, as that meant my very good condition Gannon box scrapper had to go.

Anyhow, with the S model it turns in a surprisingly small area, live pto, auto lift, cab (and hvac), loader (the Case was a $500 drove it home purchase, no loader), modern 3 point (real lift power), shuttle shift, it shows how much work you can get done. Utility tractor vs compact utility. (Old) Ford Ranger vs an F250 if you will. You also get the heavier front axle over the TN55. As far as I know, the only other difference (not counting the variations in features between any given model) mechanically is the fuel injector pump (to get the different horse power ratings). They are otherwise the same engine; the TN75 is different due to the turbocharger. There are differences related to an early vs later models. The cab and front sheetmetal were changed. Cab wise the floor mats are different (and mine is an early version; NLA). Worth replacing your door hydraulic cylinders if the doors aren't balanced (or want to open slightly). Mine were bad when I bought it, as part of this project I refreshed a lot lingering items. Much nicer to be able to open a door and not have it try to close on you. Not a terrible price to replace. And at the time my air conditioning was broken, so additional relief there.

 

[mojoinco]

Ok, final part of my tractor update and repair odyssey. The 3rd function kit. I bought the one part that is NLA. The loader arm bracket for the feed through/bulkhead connectors (flat faced connector mounts). I thought I might save some money on the hoses and also make sourcing the correct (or best solution) plumbing parts. Took my parts list (print out of the pdf above) to the Parker Hose store. $565 for hoses. I could have gotten them NOS or maybe dealer for less. I had tried to send the print to the online people to do an estimate on it, but they refused, told to go to the store (note, some stores are also hub/distribution centers, more parts on hand). The counterman that helped me was appologetic, as it wasn't a big challenge to figure out and that's what the online people are for. ~$800 bill was a surprise. It wasn't cheaper going there, but it's done and it works. It was a mild challenge, as a couple of parts weren't on hand, so one end of the hoses was changed to match the fittings available.

The only detail that was wrong (there are Rhino and NH prints of the parts list out there; I used the Rhino list) is you don't need the elbows for the back/remote connections. That was going to be tedious to mount and keep them safe. $22 I could've kept.

If you order from a Parker Hose store (likewise other places) and you are not in any hurry, ask for the pallet shipping price (regular store to store transfer shipping -- no shipping fee). They have a regular shipping fee, and a red (hurry) shipping fee. Just to know. I have need of a couple of parts for a grapple bucket and declined to order until I can confirm the hose fit to the new 3rd function installation. And the part is only stocked in one hub/distribuiton center. The bucket is a Bobcat, so I may try them directly. They are a lot closer to me anyhow.

Off to drill post holes....