TN Series

   / TN Series #21  
Derek,
Go with 16.9-30 rears. Front wheels can be 14.5-20 instead of 11.2-24. I don't know is this available there, but here in Europe, this is normal setup. Ask your dealer about this option.

ZJ
 
   / TN Series #22  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Derek,
Go with 16.9-30 rears. Front wheels can be 14.5-20 instead of 11.2-24. I don't know is this available there, but here in Europe, this is normal setup. Ask your dealer about this option.

ZJ )</font>

ZJ

It may be an option there (and also here in US) but it does not show up in the manual (which lists 21 possible tire combinations, not all available in US). With the 16.9-30 the only fronts listed are 11.2R24.

What is rolling circumference of 14.5 x 20? I'm assuming they are wider.


Andy
 
   / TN Series #23  
I have the mechanical shuttle. I prefer to do it this way as I like to control the tractor instead of relying on the tractor to slow me down and change directions. It is a very easy shift and I have not had any problems with it. I don't mind using the clutch as I am use to that and the TN is very well built mechanically (they just had problems with the little things like loose bolts on the early models). I do not have a cab on mine but pull a 12' disk with ease on flat ground. I can go up inclines but have to drop down a gear (I usually use the 10 footer on the smaller fields with the hills). The TN is plenty powerful and I would recommend it to anyone. In fact, my friend just bought a TN 75 set up like mine and is about to take delivery in the next couple days.

My only word of caution for you is that if you plan on using all your 2120 implements on the TN, make sure they are at least medium duty implements or heavier. The TN will not forgive you like the 2120 would if you accidentally hook something with a box blade or chopper. As for trailering, I have hauled my TN with my F-150 (it has the heavy duty suspension package for towing), it will squat but pulls it just fine with the 4.6L. Now we usually use the F-250 with the 5.4L. It pulls it just fine also and will slow down on a hill but not too bad. My TN weighs less then Andys as I don't have a cab or backhoe and the most I carry on it is my box blade or brush chopper so I am right around 5 ton with the trailer weight added in.
 
   / TN Series #24  
Andy,
Look here on test table, scroll down on page two, and you'll find tire setup. I found on some other tractors 14.5-20 instead of 11.2-24.
I can't find now tire circumference, sorry.

ZJ
 
   / TN Series #25  
Given your location and its possibilities, I disagree with Robert's opinion on the need for chains. We had one customer find out the hard way about 16.9x30's and chain clearance. There is NONE! They use front chains and seem to make out OK.
 
   / TN Series
  • Thread Starter
#26  
Do the 28 rears give enough clearance for chains?
 
   / TN Series #27  
I never said there would be clearance for chains on the 16.9-30s. All I said is that he wouldn't need them. We get some nice winters in Western NY and I have never needed chains in the 3 winters I have used my TN and that includes working down to our pens pushing 2 foot of snow on frozen ground as well as pulling people out who slide off the road and down our hill. With a cab the TN will have even better traction on the rears with the extra cab weight.
 
   / TN Series
  • Thread Starter
#28  
Robert

I'm sure the TN with its weight and radial ag tire would fine. Most of the time especially when its cold traction is usually very good. But when I'm out plowing or pushing back snow I need to be as efficient as possible. It is when we get a thaw with rain which happens twice a winter. It usually gets very cold quickly here after a thaw and driveways ice up. The iced up drives are as good if not better the local ice rink /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif.
 
   / TN Series #29  
I know what you mean about the driveways but unless you have operated a heavy utility tractor before it is hard to realize the difference it has over a compact like the 2120. The 2120 is extremly light and if that is what you are use to then you will be extremly surprised at what the TN can do compared to the 2120. If possible, try a TN out without chains first (even if you get the 28" rears) as you can always get chains later. The tractor won't slip as bad as you might think. When I am pushing the long driveways I put the loader down and drop the 7' box behind me to pick up as much as possible. In wet heavy snow I still do not have any problems untill the snow starts building up too high in front of the loader then I just raise the loader a couple inches and she slips no more. The last snow we got over 10" and I had to push my neighbors semi out of his driveway after I cleared it. You will be happy with the TN no matter which way you go. But I have not seen anyone put chains on a FWA Utility tractor around here, only the 2wds.

I cleared my neighbors driveway out the last few years with the TN, it is about 200' long by 10' wide and all black top. No matter how cold it was nor how much snow and drifts there were the TN did not slip pushing thru it. That is my only experience with blacktop driveways, the rest of my work is on over 1 mile of gravel driveway around our farm both frozen and thawed. Later.
 
   / TN Series #30  
Depending on tread width, the 28's should accomodate chains. I understand Robert is getting good results without chains. Given the planned uses for your new TN, I would not recommend precluding the use of rear chains unless there were other reasons the 30" rears were a necessity. What we have here is a difference of opinion, that is all.
 
   / TN Series #31  
Not really a difference of opinion, we both agree that if he wants to use chains either now or in the future then he should get 28s. If not then he should go with 30s. It all comes down to his uses. While I do not think the TN's need chains they will give better traction even though I have never had a problem where I did not have enough traction. It is all about peace of mind /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif There is no wrong way but I agree, do not use chains with 30" rears, you can barely get your hand in between the tire and fender as it is.
 
   / TN Series #32  
Andy,

Its 9000 lbs due to loaded tires? The base tractor is closer to 5 or 6k.

Either way you need a better trailer. That 350 should be able to haul the tractor.
I have seen guys with small dozers and F350s. They are over weight, but you would not be with a TN and the right trailer.

Fred
 
   / TN Series #33  
Another idea on tire chains if you decide to go with them. You can still get 30" rears and use chains if you have the wheels turned out to give you clearance away from the fender. But for your use a 28" would most likely be better suited for you. If you were doing more work pulling or driving on roads then I would not hesitate at all and just get 30s.
 
   / TN Series #34  
Fred, I think he was talking about hauling his TN with the backhoe on it which as you know will jump its weight up a few pounds /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
 
   / TN Series #35  
You guys both have it right, I have RimGuard loaded tires. ~800lbs each, about 2000 lb of backhoe and don't forget the 1000-1200 lb loader & bucket. I do need a better trailer. Once I to figure out a way to pay for it. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif
And besides I don't move it that much and my good friend Larry lamarbur's trailer works very well /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif Thanks Larry

Andy :
 
   / TN Series #36  
I have pulled AndyMa's 75 that includes the SSL front bucket and a 1050 Woods hoe. His rear tires are loaded. A rough guess says his combination runs at or just over 9,000#.. I have a Bri-Mar 12,000 trailer and pulling power is a heavy Dodge 2500 series 4 X 4 with H.O. Cummins diesel and 6sp trans. His tires barely made it between the trailer fenders. Other than that, no problems with truck, trailer, or pulling his TN 75 that has a cab and is fully loaded.
 
   / TN Series #37  
Soon I'll be towing a TN65 with an FEL, LP 2572 rotary, filled tires on a 12,000 lb. Cross-Country tag-along using a 2000 F-350 diesel dually with 4.10 gears and automatic.

This should do the job, although I'll find out for sure in the hills of central Pennslyvania.

Anyone else have a similar setup?

Thank you, CL
 
   / TN Series #38  
as long as you get the tractor and the trailer tongue weight set properly, you'll do fine and not even think about it until you hit that first hill south of Wilkes Barre on I81 southbound..
 
   / TN Series #39  
Larry,

You got to love that cummings.

I aquired a 3500 SRW with the HO 600. Just pulled a miniexcavator up some tough hills. No problem.
Can't see the rear end squat down at all and the trailer was right at 10K lbs.

You need to watch the speed limit with the turbo diesel and all but the really heavy trailers.

I also pulled a 8K lb trailer of fert one day and you could almost forget it was there.

Fred
 
   / TN Series #40  
I have the heavy 2500, quad cab, short bed Ho with 6spd. It does a real nice job at anything I've asked of it so far. Although I can say that about all the Dodge's I've had, and that I believe is 11 of them. Of course it helped when the father in law was a Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep IH-Navistar dealer for 56 years or so. he's long gone and the dealership is owned by new people. Still , when I bought this truck, their first at pick-ups, it was 50.00 over invoice. So I can't compalin about the cost of buying it..
 

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