TN55S starter issue

   / TN55S starter issue #1  

mojoinco

Platinum Member
Joined
Mar 18, 2008
Messages
623
Location
Colorado
Tractor
TN55
Hello Folks, the starter/solenoid appears to be dieing. It sounds like a box of rocks (vs the solenoid just skipping in and out -- not a gear meshing sound to me). Intermittent while cranking.

Looking at the repair manual and at the starter (I haven't pulled the plastic wire cover/cap yet) it looks like the hydraulic pump has to be removed to get the starter out. This is a 1998 with the first gen loader brackets (S model is supposed to have the higher output pump too).

Anyone able to comment on the removal process? I can see the 2 top flange bolts, I can't see if the 3rd one is at the end of the motor or if I would have access to it at the flange (not a lot of room in there). I'll likely pop the plastic cover off this afternoon. Of course we have a good sized snow storm on its way.

Thanks!
 
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   / TN55S starter issue
  • Thread Starter
#2  
Well, gave it the delco-remy tune up: smacked it with a hammer. Working for now, but this week is warming up enough to change it.

Looks ugly. The hydraulic pump almost touched it & the fuel filter is right above it, loader mount next to it.
 
   / TN55S starter issue
  • Thread Starter
#3  
There we go.
 

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   / TN55S starter issue
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Should be the same starter for a bunch of Case and New Holland models, including: tn55, tn60, tn65, tn70, tn75.
 
   / TN55S starter issue
  • Thread Starter
#5  
A little mission creep: I have to drain the hydraulic fluid, so replacing the lift arm bearings and seals. Other deferred maintenance as well (fairly simple 'while the tools are out' stuff). I'd replace the cab floor cover, but it's NLA (and the TN75SA is a one piece that is not listed as compatible; not idea why not, I thought they were all the same cab). The loader joystick is likely the first version; the new boot is an oh well, it should work good enough (NLA for the 1st version).

A tedious process to find all the little seals and gaskets, but not terrible. It helped me realize the scope of the project (oh, yeah, if that is the hydraulic oil supply pipe of course I will have to drain it all...). After 25 years, I have zero hope that anything will seal once removed. Working with a dealer staff to resolve the gasket for the power steering pump to auxiliary/accessory drive case. The one for the main lift arm could be the same, but what I need is not shown. I can wait a few days while this resolves itself. FWIW, the power steering pump is a common Bosch/Rexroth used in bunches of equipment, can be had for quite a bit less than through NH.

Found a video removing the hydraulic filter assembly. The guy could have cleaned the work area up, but it does show I may not have to remove the loader bracket (or I may -- mine is an early version loader bracket; TBD). Just posting this for the sake of posterity. Also including a video. Nice to have pictures, regardless of how one might do it themselves. Will also post links to posts here on that. Call it a memory bank.


These posts have a range of ideas -- the simplest is spending a few dollars more for the endless type C clips/snap rings/circlips. Next is bending them while in place, avoiding chasing the thing to get an end out. I found a new bar for cheap, but they were out of stock. This is a common bar for a number of Fiat/Ford/NH tractors. As are the spherical bearings. I was unable to find that exact bearing number (the last few letters), but I decided that the SKF GE25C was close enough. The NH spares picture (online parts tool) showed a slightly different number. These were 2 for $50 vs 1/$82. Hard to argue that. The video was helpful to me to picture that all the wear parts are in the retainer cover (not including the wear surfaces on the shaft). That means you can take it to a bench to do the work. Plus needing buckets under the shaft ends. Hope this is helpful to someone else down the road as well.




 
   / TN55S starter issue
  • Thread Starter
#6  
Ordered all the parts. Still not clear what the steering pump seal/gasket number is. Dealer worked with NH parts, it appears to be one or the other of:

500378759 or​

5167989 (seems most likely).​


They are going to sell me both, then pay shipping to return the one I don't need. Okay. Just to have this posted here for anyone with the TN or JX1060 or JX1070. By opening the part numbers above you will find an option to see the various models that this part fits. About 240 models that use the same gasket across the various lands under the Fiat Agri universe.

Best would of course be if there is a way to get the correct part included in the NH/Case parts listings, but I have no influence over that. At least someone may someday find the reference here. In the year 2929,.....
 
   / TN55S starter issue
  • Thread Starter
#7  
Finally found the time and weather to get this done. Starter, 3 point lift pivot arm ('flex shaft'), and miscellaneous filters. Still to put the loader bracket on, but I'm calling it a win.

Somewhere I got the impression this was an 18 gallon hydraulic fluid change. No idea where I 'learned' that. I put 10 gallons in, all is well and the dip stick says it is perfectly full. YMMV.

The repair manual I have is new enough to have the TN75 in it (I don't recall the revision date). But it should have been proof read. some pages/sections look like Luigi or Nigel (it's in UK English) took off for the day and started a different section on their return-- with not even the courtesy of a 'period'. It has terrible detail in the fastener torque charts in each section. Had to go online and search, then decide which bolt company had the best reference material for 8.8 bolts. Still helpful, in a slightly better quality than the last 50 years of Chilton manuals. The transmission and electrical sections are hopefully better written (they are huge, so one expects so).

5167989 is the base gasket for both pumps to the drive case front of the engine. One of mine did not tear, the other I had. The parts lists do not show this, and New Holland tech support didn't know either.

The flex shaft seal change was not terrible. See the second video above, it was accurate enough. I was not able to get a cape chisel to bend the circlip as noted in at least one other TBN post. It wasn't difficult with a hammer and screwdriver to remove (per the video). Stick the housing in a vise and away you go.

I ordered the bearings from elsewhere, they are a sealed spherical bearing. SKF part no GE25C. I paid about a 1/3 the price that NH wanted.

Now onto the loader bracket, misc rubber parts I ordered, and two new projects for Blueford: adding 2 more remotes. and getting the air conditioning repaired (I have had the worst time getting ac repaired in Colorado).
 

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