TN70- name the part

[sam5570]

Beacuse if one side is leaking, the other is likely to leak soon, and/ or will be damaged in the course of the repair. New Holland recommends bushing replacement and it is often damaged in removal. The nature of the snap ring and its placement is such that it is cheaper to sacrifice it than spend $1.20 per minute (shop labor rate) to remove it intact for re-use. Your mileage may vary, and the economics of a DIY repair coupled with your tolerance for the odds of re-visiting the leak due to an incomplete repair may be different than that of a professional repair shop. I will tell you upfront that the spherical bushing is not cheap.

preventive matinance they callit if you put a new part in and leave a used part in then chances the old part will fail shortly after you put the new one in happens most of the time replace both sides be done with it :thumbsup:

 

[darwood112]

I changed all the small parts, seals, bushings, etc. did not have to drain the fluid, or pull the horizontal shaft out either. Was not a very big job at all.

 

[RickB]

I changed all the small parts, seals, bushings, etc. did not have to drain the fluid, .

Changing the torsion bar seals on a TN tractor without draining the hyd oil is impossible unless all the fluid had already leaked out.
Removing the seal housing leaves a hole approximately 2" in diameter near the bottom of the rear axle center section. All but a couple quarts of oil will be on the ground immediately if not drained beforehand.

 

[pacerron]

The TN70 has lower link draft sensing so you don't want any leaks there.

 

[darwood112]

There are o rings behind the caps at the end of the lift arms. That's what I replaced.

 

[PhillipG]

Beacuse if one side is leaking, the other is likely to leak soon, and/ or will be damaged in the course of the repair. New Holland recommends bushing replacement and it is often damaged in removal. The nature of the snap ring and its placement is such that it is cheaper to sacrifice it than spend $1.20 per minute (shop labor rate) to remove it intact for re-use. Your mileage may vary, and the economics of a DIY repair coupled with your tolerance for the odds of re-visiting the leak due to an incomplete repair may be different than that of a professional repair shop. I will tell you upfront that the spherical bushing is not cheap.

Do you have any recommendations for getting the snap rings out? They are proving to be quite the pain!

Phillip

 

[koamfps]

Do you have any recommendations for getting the snap rings out? They are proving to be quite the pain!

Phillip

Phillip snap a picture and post it. I having a brain fart.

 

[RickB]

I changed all the small parts, seals, bushings, etc. did not have to drain the fluid, or pull the horizontal shaft out either. Was not a very big job at all.

The TN70 has lower link draft sensing so you don't want any leaks there.

There are o rings behind the caps at the end of the lift arms. That's what I replaced.

Sorry, The o-rings can't be changed without removing the housings, which will allow any remaining oil to immediately drain. And the o-rings are almost never the cause of a leak because they seal two parts that don't move after assembly. Done this job too many times to be told it can be done with any significant amount of oil in the rear end.

 

[appalachian]

I know this is an old thread that was brought alive again a few months ago, but I'd like to add a tip for getting the snap rings out, for anyone doing the job in the future. I took a 1/8" pin punch and ground the tip flat and sharp with a slight taper (like a chisel except with a long gradual taper), and then ground the sides sharp and at a rounded angle toward the tip, like the shape of an arrowhead. Then you can easily pry the ring out of its groove starting near one end of it because the groove is slightly wider than the ring diameter.

Also, RickB is correct about needing to drain the oil. Pulling a cap off would result in a pond under the tractor the size of the Valdese oil spill :shocked:.

 

[2bON2b]

RickB I have to replace the seals mentioned in this old post. I didnt buy the snap rings so i hope i can remove them without harm. Are they true snap rings or are they circlips? however what is the best way to remove the support flange? rotate it 90 degrees and percussively persuade out of the transmission housing?

Thanks