TNT question

   / TNT question #1  

Richard

Super Member
Joined
Apr 6, 2000
Messages
5,057
Location
Knoxville, TN
Tractor
International 1066 Full sized JCB Loader/Backhoe and a John Deere 430 to mow with
We've got an International 880 (or was it 980?)

Primarily use it to pull a big mower. Up to now, been using the box blade (5') behind the smaller International 444.

Been debating on getting a larger, heavier box blade and putting it behind the 880. If I did so, I think I'd want to have some bells/whistles in that I'd like to have a TNT type setup.

If memory serves me, this machine currently has two sets of outlets on the back. I say it that way because I think it has FOUR controls next to the seat. Fairly new machine to us and I've never counted the outlets on back.

So....

if I only have two operating pair of outlets on the back what all would I need to do to get a TNT system and more importantly, how does one know what size cylinders to get???

Also...don't I recall some kind of TNT setup with a checkvalve in it so the box on the back won't bleed down? If so, would that setup be contained in the cylinder?
 
   / TNT question #3  
Yep, C&C can fix you up. They have cylinders with check valves on them. With two sets of remotes you can have top & tilt, Just not hydraulic scarfiers.

The heavier the better on the BB.
 
   / TNT question
  • Thread Starter
#4  
I'll ask another question that might be best for someone like them. (I called them and between being on hold, had another phone call that I had to get so ended up hanging up on them while on hold)

Anyways..... on looking around their website, I noticed a joystick...

So....

Is it possible to take one of my pair of remotes, plumb "something" into them that would then power up a joystick and allow this joystick alone, to control both the up/down and forward/back of the side & top links?

That would then leave my other set of ports for perhaps some hydraulic scarifiers.

I really don't like to climb up/down all the time for these minute changes so I'm trying to find out what all I CAN do, then of course, how much, before I decide what I really want to do...

make sense?
 
   / TNT question #5  
Richard, yes I think that would work, however, if you study your remotes and the plumbing I think you could easily put one more set on for Hydraulic Scarfiers. Good luck there is probaly someone who can tell you how to do it.
I can't without seeing it.
 
   / TNT question #6  
CCM is indeed your best bet especially if you want the DPOCV on them. They are great.
That joystick valve, I'm pretty sure, needs to be plumbed into your hydraulic system. It's NOT intended to plug into your rear remotes. It's another valve like the one that controls your rear remotes. Plumbing into your system is a bit of work but not that hard to do. Once plumbed into your system, that joystick valve controls the top and side link like you envisioned. Then, that leaves your rear remotes open for any other hydraulic application you have.
To be sure you get what you want and the right components, you need to talk to them, specifically Mark. He will need some information about your tractor and then set you up accordingly. Mark is a frequent poster here on TBN.
 
   / TNT question #7  
Ok, can someone lay out what exactly the Top-n-tilt consists of, any pics? And is the hydraulic top link included in that nominclature or is it something completely seperate?
 
   / TNT question #8  
Brahmus said:
Ok, can someone lay out what exactly the Top-n-tilt consists of, any pics? And is the hydraulic top link included in that nominclature or is it something completely seperate?

I can at least get you started. The Top 'N Tilt refers to a double acting hydraulic cylinder to replace the exiting top link on your 3-point hitch and another double acting hydraulic cylinder to replace one of the two side links. That way you can hydraulicly tip the top of an implement forward and backward with the top link and tilt it side to side with the side link. So you need two cylinders of different sizes, and four hoses (two to go to and from each cylinder). Now that's IF your tractor is already equipped with two pair of remotes. If not, then you need a two spool valve, and two hoses to go to and from the valve and a hydraulic outlet on the tractor.

The first photo shows the two cylinders I put on my B2710, the second photo shows the hydraulic valve, and the third and fourth photos show how my box blade could be adjusted forward and back. And of course it could also be tilted side to side.
 

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   / TNT question #9  
Ah ok.. So you can get a Top or a Tilt or both, depending on your goals.... I can see more use for the tilt as compared to the top. Am I overlooking something?
 
   / TNT question #10  
Yes, you can do just one or the other instead of both. I know the top was, by far, the one I used the most and I think that's true for most people. But depending on the jobs you need to do, the side tilt might be the one you'd use the most. Naturally, we tend to think first of using the hydraulics to adjust the angle of implements on the 3-point, but it's also useful when hooking up those implements. You can adjust the length of the cylinders instead of man handling the implement to get it lined up exactly.
 
   / TNT question #11  
Like Bird, I too use the top way more than the tilt, but I also use the tilt way more than you think, especially cutting new trails and roads with the boxblade.
Another thing I wanted to show was, if you feel inclined to do so, you can get the rear remote quick couplers and bracket, cylinders, control valve, check valves, hoses, connections and the whole shebang and do it yourself. That's what I did to add the side links, two of them instead of just one.

I did have two sets of rear remotes that came stock on the tractor, but I ended up using that control valve to run the two side link cylinders. I got them extra heavy duty for what I was planning to do with the tractor. Then I got a 3 spool valve and used that for 3 sets of rear remotes. I use one or two sets mostly, but have only had to use all 3 sets on one occasion. That is when I had the top link attached and my boxblade with hydraulic rippers and hydraulic gauge wheels.
Anyway, I thought a link might help for those inclined.
Adding Hydraulic Side Links and Valve
 
   / TNT question #12  
ok, the new Kubota L3540 I'm looking at has external seperate cylinders for the 3pt. Does anyone know a way to seperate them there and use them as the tilt?
 
   / TNT question #13  
I have found that I need the tilt a whole lot more than the top for shaping the ground with a box blade-- and CCM won't start making the tilt (side link hydraulic) again until September:(

(the sidelink is custom fabricated, while the toplink is more or less standard except for the hyd hose len, so they stock standard tops but not sides. Of course I bought a top and found that I needed the tilt a lot more... just after they stopped making them during the busy haying season.)
 
   / TNT question #14  
Alos, Its a nice feature when you are using a Blade. You can tilt left or right to match the center height of many gravel roads and drives. Or any time you are using your blade on un eaven ground.

MM.
 

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