To 3PT or to subframe, just the facts.

   / To 3PT or to subframe, just the facts. #61  
8561 said:
My B2410 Backhoe is a straight 3 point mount as well. Relative to Robert's research on the loader requirement, it's a very good point, and I think dfkrug is correct in the reasoning for it. I would also point out that Kubota does require a heavy duty top link attachment, and also sells a frame stiffening kit which I have on my tractor. However, this additional frame stiffening does not in any way impact the 3 point mounting, and in fact, my hoe would mount to any Cat 1 3 point hitch at any time.

Do you have any pics of the frame stiffening kit? What is it? Also, since it is a "frame" stiffening kit, does these small Kubotas have frames on them? If so the frames themselves would be similar to a sub frame as to my understanding, the sub frame is designed more for the tractors that rely on the engine to transmission connection as an integrated frame. For these tractors the sub frame ties everything together to help relieve flexing.

I really do wish I had a reason to be around these smaller Kubota's more as I hardly ever see them. I see L and M series but only know one person who has a B and that is the one that split but it is from the 80's if I remember right.
 
   / To 3PT or to subframe, just the facts. #62  
I have a 30hp Belarus 250 with a Rhino 75 on it, 3pt mount. Not a particularly strong top link, and it bent with the backhoe digging in clay and pulling rocks. I had it welded and reinforced, and now make sure to use the curl of the bucket for any strong pulls, that seems to impose less stress.

I also have a Ford industrial loader, with a subframe hoe on it. Never saw a problem with that setup. I used to have a 70 hp Belarus with a Long backhoe, 3pt mount that never gave me a problem.

Advantage of the 3pt to me: cost, no mods to tractor, easy to get on and off IF you use the hydraulics to help you. When the warranty runs out on my 65hp Kioti, I will consider using the little 3pt hoe on that for mundane tasks.

I agree with one or more of the posters that transporting the unit gives the top link a lot of stress, amplified by the sudden change of direction that a bump gives our tractors with no shocks and springs. I feel totally fine using any 3pt, but use it more gently than an industrial or subframe setup. Go slower, and curl the bucket inward any time you encounter hard ground, roots, rock, etc. instead of pulling at full power with the boom. Use the smallest bucket for digging stumps or breaking roots, too....more psi with less area.

There's a world of difference between a digging contractor's needs and a small farm owner, so the vote for me is to have as many varied tools as possible...........and a 3pt fits the bill if you can appreciate the compromise of the universal mounting.
 
   / To 3PT or to subframe, just the facts. #63  
JD has it licked when it comes to subframe mount, no long steel bars going to the front and the rockshaft picks it up. I have had both also, a 3 pt 7500 Woods on my Kubota and the sub frame 48s on my Deeres. The subframe ones come off easier and take up less space than the 3 pt Woods. It was a good hoe and I did not break anything and made a few bucks with it. I would go with the subframe which was my next step if I would have not got green fever and sold it.
 
   / To 3PT or to subframe, just the facts. #64  
Interesting reading! From what I've seen through the years from the customers response and our observations.

To be digging with the hoe a lot in hard going, subframe mount is a must for most tractors! Some tractors have been broke at the clutch housing even with the subframe mounts. They seem to be prone to it. Some subframes are better then others as some have difficulty being loaded on trailers and lower the ground clearence so much they offer little more then a sub-compact. The newer trend is to have them built more into the tractors chassis which improves the ground clearence and doesn't restrict other attachments. Some of these models if you desire a mid mount mower will also take require more time to remove and reinstall brackets everytime.

Some tractors do very well with a three point hoe and they have had no structual tractor chassis problems with them. Yes they may move up and down a bit as well as side to side compared to a rigid four pin hook-up on a subframe mount but normally are less costly at purchase time. For a casual user they work fine but the one draw back that some have made mention is when the neighbors borrow it and cause damage.
 
   / To 3PT or to subframe, just the facts. #65  
I am a very conservative BH user and am self taught. I work slowly and even so it sure beats the darn shovel.

All I could afford was a 7 foot used Woods and I mounted it with a new woods 3pt kit.

The kit has the anti-lift brace (can you say crush and/or eviscerate) but it still makes me a tiny bit nervous. I can do plenty of digging with the tractor running at neutral or near neutral. I have never wound the PTO up to 540 with this PTO powered BH pump.

I plan to buy the 4 point kit for my tractor when funds are available.

I hear the creaking and groaning in the 3 point area when working at odd angles and I don't like it one bit.

My .02: Be happy with what you have but do your homework about where the weak points are and understand the risks to both the equipment and the operator. As an example, the end result of pushing down with the backhoe (feeling it trying to lift the tractor) and suffering a major linkage failure at that point could leave the operator pinned to the ROPS or worse. The subframe folks can tell you if such a failure is possible with those. I think not but am not by any means an expert on the topic.

Good luck and be safe!
 
 

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