To Paint Farm Fences or Not?

   / To Paint Farm Fences or Not? #1  

Blue Mule

Gold Member
Joined
Jan 11, 2021
Messages
454
Location
Central Kentucky
Tractor
New Holland Workmaster 40
Four years ago I had a few hundred feet of wooden farm fence installed around a couple acres of my property. Several months later I had a farm fence painting business come in and paint 2/3rds of it in the traditional black paint that is used on fences around here. The other 1/3rd I did not have them paint because it's on the back side of the property and I didn't figure anybody would really see it.

This year I've noticed something that I think is very interesting. The posts that were painted are all rotting. Some have even fallen apart already and I've had to replace them. But, the posts that I did not have painted are solid and look relatively new.

I always thought the purpose of painting fences was mostly to protect them from weather damage. From what I'm seeing it may be doing the exact opposite.
 
   / To Paint Farm Fences or Not? #2  
I haven't heard of that happening, and the places I know that have painted their fence get way more than four years before rotting.

I feel a little better about not getting around to painting my fence. It is 23 years old, and most of the posts are good. There seems to be some variation in the effectiveness of the treatment process, and I've replaced a few that rotted badly.
 
   / To Paint Farm Fences or Not? #3  
Just a theory here - if your posts have flat tops and you get rain the paint may help hold moisture in the posts instead of allowing them to dry naturally. I cut the tops of posts at about a fifteen degree angle to prevent standing water.
 
   / To Paint Farm Fences or Not? #4  
Natural or oiled…

I have not had good experience with latex paint for wood in ground contact…

Maybe the latex paint traps moisture that wicks up?
 
   / To Paint Farm Fences or Not? #5  
I have some 4-board fence built a couple years ago. The guy that built it did a really good job and he recommended painting it after it dried for a few months in order to protect it from weathering. I had him come back and they sprayed on 2 coats of that black KY Farm Paint made there in Lexington.

We also put up a bunch of woven wire fence. Of course we didn't even talk about painting the posts on the wire fence. (In fact, I've never even thought about it until now.) Seems to me that the paint is more to protect the poplar boards and face boards than the treated posts themselves, since no one goes back and paints only posts.
 
   / To Paint Farm Fences or Not? #6  
Interesting observation...

Are there any other variables at play? Maybe change in drainage of front vs back of property, standing water, different soil types?
 
   / To Paint Farm Fences or Not? #7  
That is interesting and I have a similar situation here with paint. A few years ago I had a company paint my garage roof. It was in good condition just a little dull white. They used expensive Sherwin Williams products and in less than a year roof looks like it does now! The metal edges are even rusty (I'd have to get ladder & show from above). I had them paint walk-in door frames which you see are rotting.
Maybe something to do with paint today vs what they used years ago.(?).
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   / To Paint Farm Fences or Not? #8  
The paint is forming a barrier over the wood. If there are any cracks in it anywhere, water will get in and the paint film will hold that water in, speeding up the rotting.
 
   / To Paint Farm Fences or Not? #9  
The paint is forming a barrier over the wood. If there are any cracks in it anywhere, water will get in and the paint film will hold that water in, speeding up the rotting.
That's been my understanding and observation for the most part. Unpainted white cedar posts here can last a long long time, and there a cedar rail fences over 100 years old in a lower humidity spot.
 
   / To Paint Farm Fences or Not? #10  
That is interesting and I have a similar situation here with paint. A few years ago I had a company paint my garage roof. It was in good condition just a little dull white. They used expensive Sherwin Williams products and in less than a year roof looks like it does now! The metal edges are even rusty (I'd have to get ladder & show from above). I had them paint walk-in door frames which you see are rotting.
Maybe something to do with paint today vs what they used years ago.(?).View attachment 3257430View attachment 3257431
I'm sorry that the paint job has not held up the way that one would expect.

If it were me, I would be having a discussion with the painters. Paint preparation is 90% of the job in my experience. I painted to put myself through school, and have always been interested in paint chemistry and coatings.

Sadly, I think that if it were me, I would be replacing your door trim at this point, and hoping that the door frame can be repaired. There are "Dry-rot" epoxies to solidify rotted wood, but if the water is getting in higher up, that won't help. Is there standing water at the door when it rains? As to the algae, I use "Wet-n-Forget". I would try that on your roof to see if it improves things. If it doesn't, I tend to reach for more potent cleaners. Was this an issue before it was painted as well? E.g. a north slope that never gets sunshine?

Take the following with a grain of salt as they say. I'm a Sherwin-Williams advocate, based on decades of experience with their paint and others. I do use other brands. We currently have Sherwin-Williams paint on the house and outbuildings and 90% off it is in good condition 19 years later. The material that isn't 100% is on surfaces where the underlying material is failing, or has failed, so not really the fault of the top layer. (Think 100 year old paint on 100+ year old wood that was repainted 19 years ago with a new layer.) Preparation is 90%...

However, Sherwin-Williams makes an enormous range of paint and paint quality. Here the low end paint is in the $35/gal price range, and the high end residential paint is in the $140/gal range. I believe that the high end paint is better. Is it 4X better? That's a tough call. I might use it on a house that I plan to be in for twenty years. Perhaps not if I only need the paint to last three years. I might use the pricier paint on areas that had access issues, e.g. multistory building, where the labor and equipment cost to get painters up in the air adds to the job cost. Commercial quality paints for special applications can be even more expensive.

However, great paint on an inadequately prepared surface is just wasting money and resources. Even a great paint needs a clean, strong, intact surface to adhere to. Sometimes, that is sanding, priming, second coat of primer, and a top coat or multiple top coats. If I am spraying, I always back roll with a roller to get the top coat into all the crevices. I think of spraying as a way to get paint onto a surface and rolling or brushing the paint as a way to get the paint into the surface. I never just spray latex paints, but that's just my personal opinion. I am more in the do it once and forget it category.

Sherwin-Williams makes a line of paint that is "self-cleaning" exterior paint called "Rain refresh" because the paint generates a cleaner from sunlight and water that dissolves off dirt sticking to the paint. ($$$, $130/gal locally) Obviously, it works better in areas that get rain periodically, and rather unusually it has a UV protecting agent that doesn't break down in sunlight. Those two items have benefits to an owner, and some geeky chemistry behind it.

All the best,

Peter
 
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