To paint or not to Paint the trailer.

[timswi]

Hit it with a sandblaster and spray Rustoleum on it...A Saturday's time if you're not looking for show quality.

 

[crazyal]

Find a paint company that specializes in industrial coatings. Years ago I ran a crew that painted bridges. In the case of lead abatement we would grit blast off the lead paint. That would leave a nice profile for the paint to stick to. But other times we would use special paints that would bond with the steel no matter how much rust. I think Devoe was one company we used that had a great product. It was (not sure if the EPA killed it) a two part epoxy that would penetrate rust and steel to stop rust dead in it's tracks. It was clear and thin like water. The salesman had apiece of steel that they had put on the edge of a tide pool outside their HQ. They are located in Boston. They painted 1/3 of the bare steel with the primer, left it outside for a year, painted the middle 1/3 with the same primmer right over the rust, and would leave it where the tide would repeatedly cover it in salt water. When going on a sales trip they would put it in the car to show people. You could clearly see the difference, the bare steel never rusted and the rust that was coated didn't rust any further. Both had a glossy look to them while the last section was scaling like crazy. The best thing was that because it didn't just coat but actually penetrated the steel the edge of the primer wasn't being lifted off by rust getting under it.

It's been 15 plus years since I've been in the business so things could have changed but if it was me that's what I would use. Minimal prep work and it will last for decades.

 

[LD1]

Well if I do opt to paint, prep is going to be power washing and scraping some heavy stuff off and that's about it.
I don't want to blast or do it all be hand. If there is anything out there that works well with the prep I mentioned, I'm all ears.

Sound guy, asphalt paint at Menards is $120 a gallon unless you were talking about asphalt sealer??? Which is around 40ish for 5gal.??

Is there anything that a place like Menards or tsc sells that will work?? And is affordable??

 

[sixdogs]

If you decide to paint I have had excellent results with Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer. I scape the loose stuff off and then either pressure wash or scrub with a stiff brush and dishwashing detergent. Yes, it works great. Then I paint accordingly and have had great results with john Deere medium gloss black on trailer type things. You can make it easier flipping the trailer on it's side.

 

[Dr_Zinj]

I'd coat it with rust proofing.

If you're feeling really froggy, strip it down to bare metal and get a gunsmith to blue the entire thing. It will be a real eye stopper then.

 

[LD1]

Dr zinj, any source of this rust proofer?? Is it available at a box store??

Six dogs, flipping would be great, built I don't think my bota is up to that task. And don't really want to chance tearing something up with the bh

 

[sixdogs]

If you ever do flip it, be careful since the center of the trailer is not the center of the balance point and the trailer will want to twist and could destabilize a small tractor. You could flip over. I flip in the grass with old tires underneath and buy extra air hose to reach it. You don't have to flip all the way, either--I just go up on one side now. Great time to touch up any welds that need it.

 

[LD1]

Yea, I don't think I'll flip it.

There's only a couple of things to touch up,
1. There a piece of 3" channel about a foot long tying together two crossmembers together
Its right above and right between the tires. Its mounted channel side up...and laying full of muck. You can actually see it in one of the pics.

2. The channel on the front that the boards sit in is pretty far gone on then bottom.

3. One cross member, right behind the right rear axle was bent.

The ramps also need a little modification. On level ground, with trailer level, and ramps down, the "feet" on the ramps is 6" away from touching.

Also, another question...the cross members are 24" apart. Old deck was screwed every other one. Is that normal or should they be attached at everyone??

 

[Soundguy]

pressure wash should be good. i've painted some old 'worker' equipemnt after a degrease and pressure wash.

asphalt fence paint. it's a lil more now than when i bought a 55g drum of it 13 ys ago.. but it's still pretty cheap.

26$ per 5g.. and you can sure thin it with mineral spirits.( back when i got it it was 15$ per 5g in a pail.. and about 12$ per 5g bulk.. and you DID have to thin it to roll it easilly.. so 5g goes a good distance... )

the stuff you looked at is crack seal and top coat. not the same thing...

Asphalt Fence Paint - 5 Gallon :: Barn & Fence Paint :: FarmPaint.com

i can't say for certain TSC has this.. but I'd check. I got mine from a local farm supply/ feed store that also sold fencing products.

Well if I do opt to paint, prep is going to be power washing and scraping some heavy stuff off and that's about it.
I don't want to blast or do it all be hand. If there is anything out there that works well with the prep I mentioned, I'm all ears.

Sound guy, asphalt paint at Menards is $120 a gallon unless you were talking about asphalt sealer??? Which is around 40ish for 5gal.??

Is there anything that a place like Menards or tsc sells that will work?? And is affordable??

 

[sixdogs]

Can you explain more on this asphalt fence paint? How well do you have to prep the surface? Does the material hold moisture underneath it and rust? Does it flake off? Do you prime first and if not would primer be desirable? Any info helpful since this is new to me.