TODAY'S GUN TIME

[sea2summit]

Yesterday's guntime, loaded up some Hornady 62gr BTHPs with 22.7gr IMR 8208XBR and 23.2gr. Shoot 0.962" group with the 22.7 and around 1.3" with the 23.2. Then shoot some 60gr VMax with 23.5 and 24.0 gr H335. Got 1.096" with 23.5 and 1.325" with 24.0.

How many shots for those groups? Are they in your nodes, seem like very far apart loads for I assume a .223 case, some seem must be close to max charge if so.

 

[sea2summit]

I am starting to see 9mm in stores - but it’s about $1 a round.

It’s been a while since I’ve even seen 9mm in stores.

I guess that is some progress?

MoKelly

Several places to get it now in the $0.30-0.40 range online. I think that’s probably as good as we’ll see for a long time on loaded ammo. Hope I’m wrong.

 

[paulsharvey]

How many shots for those groups? Are they in your nodes, seem like very far apart loads for I assume a .223 case, some seem must be close to max charge if so.

Yes, in 223, and 5 shoots in the lower charge. I shoot 10 shoots of the higher charge, but I was messing with scope zero. Then, I shoot 5 more rounds of the lower charge at some clays set up against the backstop. The 60gr Vmax where both 5 shoot groups, that I loaded up a few weeks ago, and I just wanted to keep shooting, so I grabbed them out too.

I'll be honest, I've messed around with 0.2gr steps, but you burn up a ton of powder and bullets (and right now, primers), hoping to find a awesome, but very narrow charge. Ideally, I want a load that is stable atleast +/- 0.1 if not 0.2 grains, for weather, scale error, ect. No pressure signs at all, but they are toward the upper end of Hornday book data. Hodgdon lists 23.8gr with a 69gr SMK, at 52.9k psi, so I'm sure I'm well within safe pressure.

Currently I dont own a chronograph, so no idea on velocities.

For me, the 62gr BTHP is ment to be a general go-to fun shooting round. I've played with 55gr Berrys FMJ and, I think, 55gr Hornady FMJ, and found them to shoot terrible. Like best case 2.5" groups. The 62gr BTHP is around $0.14/each, so probably the cheapest option over FMJs, and from what I've seen, much improved accuracy over them. I know for 'blasting' the cheap FMJs work, but I hate knowing that I'm shooting a 2.5-3+" load.

 

[sea2summit]

Yes, in 223, and 5 shoots in the lower charge. I shoot 10 shoots of the higher charge, but I was messing with scope zero. Then, I shoot 5 more rounds of the lower charge at some clays set up against the backstop. The 60gr Vmax where both 5 shoot groups, that I loaded up a few weeks ago, and I just wanted to keep shooting, so I grabbed them out too.

I'll be honest, I've messed around with 0.2gr steps, but you burn up a ton of powder and bullets (and right now, primers), hoping to find a awesome, but very narrow charge. Ideally, I want a load that is stable atleast +/- 0.1 if not 0.2 grains, for weather, scale error, ect. No pressure signs at all, but they are toward the upper end of Hornday book data. Hodgdon lists 23.8gr with a 69gr SMK, at 52.9k psi, so I'm sure I'm well within safe pressure.

Currently I dont own a chronograph, so no idea on velocities.

For me, the 62gr BTHP is ment to be a general go-to fun shooting round. I've played with 55gr Berrys FMJ and, I think, 55gr Hornady FMJ, and found them to shoot terrible. Like best case 2.5" groups. The 62gr BTHP is around $0.14/each, so probably the cheapest option over FMJs, and from what I've seen, much improved accuracy over them. I know for 'blasting' the cheap FMJs work, but I hate knowing that I'm shooting a 2.5-3+" load.

You are a man that needs a chrono and to understand finding the nodes. Generally I’ll load 10-15 shots .1 increments then select two or three charges which I’ll load 5 for then might have to do an additional five for a tie breaker if it’s close between two. Saves a ton of time and powder. Granted the time part is on the bench because letting everything cool completely for 10-15 cold bore shots takes a while.

 

[paulsharvey]

Tonight, I loaded up 5 rounds of 6.5 Grendel, 129gr Hornady Interlocks, at the stupid short length of 2.100", with 24.5gr IMR 8208XBR. Its frustrating just how Short of a chamber I have, or maybe its an O-give issue with this bullet, but everything says either 2.260" or 2.245" should be right. Those jam so hard, when I beat the bolt open, the bullet stays stuck in the rifling, and I get an empty case, and loose powder all in the rifle. Might be a few days before I can test them, got stuff to do this weekend.

 

[paulsharvey]

You are a man that needs a chrono and to understand finding the nodes. Generally I’ll load 10-15 shots .1 increments then select two or three charges which I’ll load 5 for then might have to do an additional five for a tie breaker if it’s close between two. Saves a ton of time and powder. Granted the time part is on the bench because letting everything cool completely for 10-15 cold bore shots takes a while.

I know what you mean, but there is so much conflicting info about all the methods. And everyone swears their way is right. Some people do 10 single shots in 0.2gr, look for velocity nodes. Others do groups, others tune for OAL, some people play with neck tension. Annealing, try different primers, ect. Its a dang rabbit hole. Ive heard of people that have a target velocity node, that their barrel likes, and if, say 2750 fps shoots good, they will try to have matching velocity across multiple powders and projectile brands... Other people obsess about SD and ES, even above group size; but that, I think, really takes effect out past 600 yards.

I forget who said it, but no amount of load development or tuning will make a bad bullet shoot good.

Also, as much as we all like shooting 5 or 10 shoots in 0.4"; I know my limits and that of my equipment as well. Anything below 1" makes me smile.

 

[the old grind]

I've been tweaking by seating depth vs charger increments. Seems quicker to find nodes with less power burned. One COL seems to minimze the effect of charge weight for each gun. Midway between min & max charge of a recipe/powder gives room to seat a tad deeper. (.010" or .020" increments) When I hit a max velocity of a recipe that become my own max. I often seat a bit long, but get good groups w/o pushing fps every time. More power means more caliber, not wreckin' s__ for 'another 200 fps'. JMO

 

[gsganzer]

You can drive yourself bat shiiiit crazy with cartridge length. I used to settle at .025 off the lands and then just adjust the powder weight from there. I guess you could diddle it to the fine details, but I don't have time for that amount of effort.

 

[sea2summit]

I know what you mean, but there is so much conflicting info about all the methods. And everyone swears their way is right. Some people do 10 single shots in 0.2gr, look for velocity nodes. Others do groups, others tune for OAL, some people play with neck tension. Annealing, try different primers, ect. Its a dang rabbit hole. Ive heard of people that have a target velocity node, that their barrel likes, and if, say 2750 fps shoots good, they will try to have matching velocity across multiple powders and projectile brands... Other people obsess about SD and ES, even above group size; but that, I think, really takes effect out past 600 yards.

I forget who said it, but no amount of load development or tuning will make a bad bullet shoot good.

Also, as much as we all like shooting 5 or 10 shoots in 0.4"; I know my limits and that of my equipment as well. Anything below 1" makes me smile.

Differing opinions on guns and reloading? Never

 

[hunt4570]

The tax stamp is what you need, there are no associated licenses.

The pistol thing is an odd duck, and harder for me personally to keep track legalities when crossing state lines. SBR's are cool but they are also a hassle to cross state lines with because you have to get your 5320.20 approved/stamped by the ATF before you can. And that's not just if it's configured as an SBR, if the Serial number is an SBR in the data base you have to have your stamp and the 5320.20 approved for the dates of travel. Much easier to pin and weld to 16" (pin/weld done in accordance with the ATFs method regarding materials etc make the barrel and flash hider one piece meeting the 16" requirement for a rifle barrel). It's a very common practice and more than a few companies do the service, it's not something you could do in the garage with a drill press and your crackerbox.

Yeah, just poor wording on my part.. but you know what I meant... And you said you were going to put a 14.5" barrel on which is why I asked.. no mention of you lengthening it.