Todays shop time.

/ Todays shop time. #801  
4570, what do you do with the bullets? Take them out and patch, and if so, with what?
or is this built in "distressing"?
 
/ Todays shop time.
  • Thread Starter
#802  
4570, what do you do with the bullets? Take them out and patch, and if so, with what?
or is this built in "distressing"?

On the previous 2 bullets I hit I ripped it narrower to cut out the bullet. On the last piece you won’t be able to see that edge in the finished piece so I left it alone. They would have made a cool conversation piece but this table is going in an upscale office so I don’t think the bullet would be a desirable trait.
 
/ Todays shop time. #803  
I thought it would have looked pretty neat...

I could use a hand with some suggestions on how to get this pulley off my rototiller.
It's so large that my pullers won't fit. New trans/axle assembly going in, drops down, not up so pulley
won't clear, has to come off. Has a keyway.

Does one just take a block of wood and gently persuade it?
What do you use when you don't have the right tool?...
thanks
 

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/ Todays shop time. #804  
I've used this HF bearing separator for a lot of awkward things. The pieces are easily adaptable to use with longer bolts or rods or just heavy flat bar drilled where necessary.
 

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/ Todays shop time. #805  
How about drilling two holes equally spaced from the centerline of the shaft and opposite each other through the pully then using suitable bolts, nuts, and washers affix your puller.
If possible, the application of some heat might expand the hub enough to get things moving.
Reassemble with a slathering of antiseez compound to insure EZ disassembly in the future.

Does sound like a good excuse to purchase a bigger puller however, as the guy who dies with the most tools has the best auctions.

B. John
 
/ Todays shop time. #806  
Clean/chamfer the end of the shaft a bit first

You might try a tie rod tool or pickle fork on the backside. It LOOKs like there may be enough room. Might be enough to break it loose then continue with a wooden block or spacers and the wedged pickle fork.
 
/ Todays shop time. #807  
thanks guys, going to use a little heat and see if I get lucky.
pickle fork and wiggle wiggle wiggle....
if not, trip to Napa for an expensive tool I'm sure.
 
/ Todays shop time. #808  
thanks guys, going to use a little heat and see if I get lucky.
pickle fork and wiggle wiggle wiggle....
if not, trip to Napa for an expensive tool I'm sure.

This/\/\/\ and patience.
I had a similar problem on a mower pulley that I could not get off or access.
I first doused it for about a week with loose juice and then
heat, a tapered block of wood and a hammer was the only "wrench" that would fit.
I pounded the bejeesus out of it and it finally gave up.
 
/ Todays shop time. #809  
Plan B

IMG_2697.jpg

Perhaps you could borrow a puller. I’d be happy to help but not really up to a road trip. Lol.
 
/ Todays shop time. #810  
Drew, I think some auto parts places will loan / rent pullers and such.
 
/ Todays shop time. #811  
friendly persuasion did not work, bit the bullet and bought a nice US made 10'' puller.
what concerns me is putting too much pressure on the pulley, I doubt it's very strong
tomorrow's project
 
/ Todays shop time. #812  
Try to put a couple pieces of flat bar on the back face of the pulley to distribute the pulling forces of the jaws.

Once the puller is under tension give it a few taps with hammer and pickle fork again.

Forget the friendly persuasion. Grit your teeth and cuss. Works for me.
 
/ Todays shop time.
  • Thread Starter
#813  
Try to put a couple pieces of flat bar on the back face of the pulley to distribute the pulling forces of the jaws.

Once the puller is under tension give it a few taps with hammer and pickle fork again.

Forget the friendly persuasion. Grit your teeth and cuss. Works for me.

Yep, it’s easy to bend or break a pulley. I know better than pulling on the inside but there wasn’t room under this one.IMG_1415.JPG
 
/ Todays shop time. #814  
How about drilling two holes equally spaced from the centerline of the shaft and opposite each other through the pully then using suitable bolts, nuts, and washers affix your puller.
If possible, the application of some heat might expand the hub enough to get things moving.
Reassemble with a slathering of antiseez compound to insure EZ disassembly in the future.

Does sound like a good excuse to purchase a bigger puller however, as the guy who dies with the most tools has the best auctions.

B. John
+1 on drilling and tapping holes
 
/ Todays shop time. #816  
The pics look like the end of the shaft needs some grinding and cleaning as mentioned but maybe you already did that after the pics were taken. Also as mentioned, I would drill holes close to the shaft as possible and that allow your fingers to fit, then use the puller. Too far out and you will ruin bend the pulley easily. Holes can be filled in with a welder if needed. Seeing you are replacing the gear box I would not be too concerned about ruining that side with a pickle fork. Bang on it, remove and spin the pully 180 and bang on it again, rinse and repeat.
 
/ Todays shop time.
  • Thread Starter
#817  
I worked on building a dovetail ramp for my dump truck to drive a mower up. I plan on welding another piece across the back to mount fold down ramps on and I have the aluminum floor from a box truck I plan on decking the dovetails with.IMG_1523.JPGIMG_1522.JPG
 
/ Todays shop time. #818  
So. The dovetail will be removable and utilizes the tailgate hinge and latches?

Will you be able to lay it down by opening gate latches and raising the box allowing it to pivot on top hinge pins? Or?

Dual shield for the welds?
 
/ Todays shop time.
  • Thread Starter
#819  
Yes it utilizes the tailgate hinge pins. I haven’t decided how to remove it. The tailgate is too heavy to put back on by hand so I might just lift the dovetail with equipment. I could probably design it to come off on stands but I might just set two post in the ground and put a cross beam on it and lift it with ratchet straps. I think the welder is just gas shield but it wasn’t my machine so I don’t know for sure.
 
/ Todays shop time. #820  
Crossbeam like you said would prob be the best. Finding the balance point and having it suspended would be easier and safer to insert or remove the pins as opposed to lifting with a machine.
 

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