Todays shop time.

[BukitCase]

With the battery cables getting hot, sounds to me like the plate separators failed in the battery - That would've put a pretty good load on the charging system, might wanna double check THAT part of the tractor - or ya could just wait til it doesn't start, THEN you'd know if there's any damage from the crap battery :confused3: ...Steve

 

[Sawyer Rob]

I did check the charging system, all is good...

It was close to a 1,000CCA batt. so there was some juice going to heat, in that thing!

Hoping the new batt. is better!

SR

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

I did check the charging system, all is good...

It was close to a 1,000CCA batt. so there was some juice going to heat, in that thing!

Hoping the new batt. is better!

SR

Good thang you figured it out before damage occurred. I had one explode on me when I went to start it, due to low on water/acid. It was a maintenance free type.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

That's for sure Kyle, I was lucky I caught it!

I've had one explode in the past and it made quite a mess! Anyway, I've been using that tractor lately, and all is well!

SR

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

That's for sure Kyle, I was lucky I caught it!

I've had one explode in the past and it made quite a mess! Anyway, I've been using that tractor lately, and all is well!

SR

Louder than my 12 gage it was. Blew the lid off. I immediately grabbed a hose and started rinsing off the acid. The solution to pollution is dilution.

 

[jaxs]

As I read BukitCase's great ideas for controlling rust in the shop,I wondered wherther some might not do it because they can't justify or perhaps afford the cost. Maybe these tips can help with the expense. Many gas furnaces are replaced for reasons other than failure of furnace(better efficiency,failed cooling components,modernization)so old furnace is still functional. Even if the exchanger was cracked,CO poisoning isn't likely in a workshop unless attached to living/sleeping quarters. At any rate,you should install CO detectors if CO is of concurn. Be informed that there's a difference between nat gas and propane furnaces. Some only require an orfice change or simple adjustment while others require complete valve replacement. If you or a friend have hvac knowledge,a $10 furnace can make a fine shop heater that doesn't add moisture.
While you have your hvac/refrigeration hat on,let's build a thermostat controlled,heated storage to protect paint from freezing. Many but not all refrigerator t-stats have no/nc contacts dependent on temperature. Connect your light bulb/heat source to the terminal that closes when set point is reached and compressor go's off. That will alow you set heat to come on any where you like between 32F and 50F. To keep an eye on things without opening door to feel inside,mount a pilot light outside box. Wire pilot to terminal that would close on temperature rise and turn compressor on. When light glows,temperature inside is above set point so no worries. Light will of course go off when heat is on but will shortly come back on at set point. Since leds and cfl bulbs produce little heat and incandescents are being phased out,we need another heat source. Deforst heaters to the rescue. Pull the inner linner from freezer section to find them. They can look like woven stainless wire shielding or aluminum tube similar to refrigerant lines but with wire entering each end. Probably go's without saying but be carful not to cut a refrigerant line,high pressure gas can instantly frost bite and/or blind you. Besides that,you would have to report it to EPA and pay your fine. If your t-stat doesn't have nc-no terminals,find a line voltage t-stat or use a transformer and relay with conventional t-stat or simple plug and unplug box like some folks do.
As for the light bulbs under metal tables and tools,if you need several and don't want a continuous wire connecting them or can't afford multiple speed controls,here's a solution. Connecting 2 bulbs in series reduce's wattage and extend's bulb life same as listed for speed controllers. On a side note regarding speed controller,tuck it beneath a tool because inexpensive controllers produce heat same as bulbs they control.
In the event I come across as a feller who thinks he has it all figured out,a true story for perspective. The wife picked up sodas and frozen popsicles while grocery shopping. I ask our little granddaughter to put some in the shop refrigerator. When I went for a popsicle later that day and asked her about the missing drinks and popsicles,she said "I put them in there with all your other things".:duh:

 

[BukitCase]

Jaxs, even more good ideas - I didn't mention series bulbs only because cutting/splicing/wiring tends to make those unfamiliar with electrical practices NERVOUS, and it SHOULD - also, it takes two 100 watt bulbs in series just to get 50 watts from BOTH bulbs TOTAL, so unless whatever you're keeping warm is totally enclosed, I doubt you could keep something like a table saw or jointer warm enough to stay above dewpoint in some cases...

(Just in case my wattage statement above causes someone to wanna argue, here's the basic math - two identical items in SERIES, with a voltage applied to the series string, will cause the resistance ACROSS the string to DOUBLE, resulting in HALF the CURRENT that would flow in a SINGLE device - Identical items will have the same resistance, so each item in the 2-item string will ALSO have half the VOLTAGE...
Wattage - determined by Volts time Amps; so if BOTH Volts AND Amps are HALF (compared to a single device) you then have HALF of a HALF, which = 1/4. Therefore each 100 watt bulb (if that's what's used) will see 1/4 of its rated wattage.

This won't be EXACT, because Tungsten (filament) has a Negative temperature coefficient - if it's not getting as HOT, its resistance won't drop as much in series, so the ACTUAL wattage might end up being a little MORE than 1/4. (Obviously more than some people wanna read, if so just IGNORE this part )

I was concerned about the incandescent ban too, so I ordered a couple CASES of the 100 watt rough service bulbs a few years ago; my "stash" may outlive ME - but your comments made me curious, since heat lamps are ALSO incandescent (I wouldn't wanna pay for an LED version that actually puts out 250 watts
So I googled "incandescent bulb", and THIS popped up

Was there actually an incandescent light bulb ban?

Apparently the last phase of the "ban" is yet to come in 2020, but meantime you can still buy 100 watt bulbs from several sources, including the one in the link

SATCO - S8518 - 1A19/RS | Regency Lighting for $.42 each (if you hurry)

or from Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/Aero-Tech-ULA-98-100-Watt-Service-Incandescent/dp/B000CEY9P6 for $$2.83 each

Another option for small heat sources might be "plant seedling bed warmers" - similar to some freeze tapes, but built-in T-stat (IIRC) set to around 70 degrees -

https://www.amazon.com/Quick-Electr...41195224&sr=1-27&keywords=seedling+heat+cable

those are a bit more expensive than a light bulb, but could just be wrapped under a machine bed and left on, or multiples thru a power strip - that one only draws 32 watts...

Or similar, but cheaper

Wrap-On Gro-Quick Electric Soil Warming Cable. Thermostatically controlled heat. 6-48 feet

Definitely more than one way to "skin a cat", but it helps to understand some of the CAUSES of things rusting... Steve

 

[daugen]

for you guys with machinist skills, of which I have none,
but...

George Green Machine Shop | Ricardo Barros Photographs

I got to spend a little time in this place, across the Delaware River from the small town where I grew up, New Hope, PA.
Everything ran by leather belts, and the whole place when turned on was amazing, yes an OSHA nightmare, but simply beyond cool.
In fact it was so cool when the operation finally shut down and the place was gutted and made into luxury homes, they kept the front almost exactly as it was.
There were overhead moving belts everywhere making a thrumming noise

and here's what powered it:

George Green had a Machine shop in Lambertville Nj from about 1909 til his death in 1974 then it continued til 1981 run by his shop foreman Sam Bodine til his death . After that the machinery was sold. Sometime in the late teens Mr. Green obtained what I think was an 8 or 10 hp Superior type throttle gov. Otto.He had converted it to run on diesel fuel.This Otto is very unique as Mr Green had made outboard crankshaft supports for it.This engine was used on the lineshaft til the late 70's then replaced with a 10 hp electric motor. Back in 1981 when I was 13 years old my dad and I were at the shop to use the 60" vert boring mill for a large gear repair job I saw the Otto run for the last time before being removed by a collector from Pa. I know it was sold sometime in the later 80's as I remember an ad in the back of Gem. I have been wondering where it is now.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

I've been following David Richards, since he started his channel. IF you like steam and old timey tools he makes some good videos.

David Richards
- YouTube

SR

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

for you guys with machinist skills, of which I have none,
but...

George Green Machine Shop | Ricardo Barros Photographs

I got to spend a little time in this place, across the Delaware River from the small town where I grew up, New Hope, PA.
Everything ran by leather belts, and the whole place when turned on was amazing, yes an OSHA nightmare, but simply beyond cool.
In fact it was so cool when the operation finally shut down and the place was gutted and made into luxury homes, they kept the front almost exactly as it was.
There were overhead moving belts everywhere making a thrumming noise

and here's what powered it:

George Green had a Machine shop in Lambertville Nj from about 1909 til his death in 1974 then it continued til 1981 run by his shop foreman Sam Bodine til his death . After that the machinery was sold. Sometime in the late teens Mr. Green obtained what I think was an 8 or 10 hp Superior type throttle gov. Otto.He had converted it to run on diesel fuel.This Otto is very unique as Mr Green had made outboard crankshaft supports for it.This engine was used on the lineshaft til the late 70's then replaced with a 10 hp electric motor. Back in 1981 when I was 13 years old my dad and I were at the shop to use the 60" vert boring mill for a large gear repair job I saw the Otto run for the last time before being removed by a collector from Pa. I know it was sold sometime in the later 80's as I remember an ad in the back of Gem. I have been wondering where it is now.

While I haven't ran any machines powered by a belt off of a main power shaft, I have ran machines that were converted from such and given their individual motors.

Sad that this equipment isn't much good for anything but repair type work or maybe make a very small production quantity.