Toolbox and Lights for my JD4100

   / Toolbox and Lights for my JD4100
  • Thread Starter
#61  
Thomas,

Not a bad idea. Wait... the FEL is removed about half the time. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif Still have the connector problem.... /w3tcompact/icons/blush.gif

Terry
 
   / Toolbox and Lights for my JD4100 #62  
I was going to mount my lights on the FEL but creating a breakable connection between the FEL and the tractor was an issue. I ended up buying some waterproof connectors like the ones that are used in trailer wiring (black snap connectors with the little green gaskets) and never used them since I mounted mine on the ROPS. Car Parts sells them.

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   / Toolbox and Lights for my JD4100
  • Thread Starter
#63  
Mike,

Here we go -

Current headlights are 37.5 watts (2) = 75 watts
Front facing auxilliary lights are 50 watts (2) = 100 watts
Rear facing auxilliary light is 50 watts (1) = 50 watts

Total is 225 watts.

Now I apply the handy, dandy conversion formula Amps=watts/volts - 18.75 amperes = 225 watts/12 volts
This excludes dash lights and warning lights.

So, looks like my alternator should be able to handle the lighting load.

Now I just have to figure out the all the parts and pieces to tap into the battery.

Terry
 
   / Toolbox and Lights for my JD4100 #64  
How about a twist lock electric plug.

Thomas..NH /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif
 
   / Toolbox and Lights for my JD4100 #65  
Attached is a picture that shows the connection at my battery as well as the corrugated sheath I used. It also shows I need to clean the debris at the base of my radiator. /w3tcompact/icons/crazy.gif

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   / Toolbox and Lights for my JD4100
  • Thread Starter
#66  
Mike,

What guage of wire did you use? 12?

Terry
 
   / Toolbox and Lights for my JD4100 #67  
Yep, 12.


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   / Toolbox and Lights for my JD4100
  • Thread Starter
#68  
Cool!

Have a bunch of that, now a relay, some in-line fuses, the wife near-by with a fire estinguisher..../w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif/w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

Terry
 
   / Toolbox and Lights for my JD4100 #69  
A relay allows you to switch a low current circuit to control a large current. You can use the instrument panel switch and be sure that you are not going to burn out the expensive switch. Relays are also rated for their switching capabilities.

A switch, like the head light switch in the instrument panel is rated to switch only a certain amount of current. If the switch is used to switch a higher load the life of the switch will be reduced and with a still higher load can burn out at once. Since the cost of a switch is related to its capability of the switch, we can assume that the instrument panel switch is rated for the tractor lights and the OEM accessories plus a safety margin.


When any mechanical switch opens or closes a circuit there is a spark. You can sometimes see a small flash inside the switch when you switch room lights with the wall switch. In some cases the spark is small enough that we can ignore it, such as the switch in a mini-maglight. In other cases the switch will have a massive mechanism to handle the arc safely, such as the switches in the Power Company transformer yards. Most switches are in between.

Uncontrolled each small spark will vaporize a small spot of metal from the switch.

Failure modes include:
1) The arc may be large enough to burn a spot leaving oxides of the metal alloy. After many cycles the build up of burned spots may make the connection unreliable. In this failure mode the switch develops a higher and higher resistance and the switch will heat up whenever it is turned on. The high resistance will limit the current available to the load. The heating of the switch may present a problem including a fire risk.
1a) Alternatively the burned spots may insulate and prevent a good connection, leaving the switch off. This may produce a switch which sometimes (or never) turns the load on.

2) The arc may be large enough or repeated enough times to vaporize away enough material that the contacts don't touch and the switch can never turn on.

3) The arc may be large enough to weld the switch contacts closed.


Switches are rated for current, voltage, AC or DC service, and inductive load. These determine the geometry of the contacts. and should not be used outside the rated range. The voltage determines the size gap that a spark can jump. A switch will be designed with contacts large enough to handle the current with materials suitable for the load and able to move the contacts apart fast enough, and far enough, to control the arc damage.

In some cases the arc is relied on by the switch designer to clean the contact area. Use of this type switch for voltages and currents below the designed range may result in poor reliability.


Some switches are rated for inductive loads. It can be a painful experience to use a switch not rated for inductive loads to control a big DC motor. Inductive loads are the most demanding to switch. The transformer yard switch must deal with the inductance of miles of power lines.


Why is this necessary (Electrical Engineering in a one screenfull)

There are three basic properties of electrical elements:
Resistance
Capacitance
Inductance

Resistance is the simplest load for a circuit. A resister will consume power. Heat and light are the result of resistance.

Inductance is the property of a coil of wire. This property is enhanced if the wire coil has a magnetic core (a hunk of iron). The inductor stores energy in its magnetic field. If we have a simple circuit with a battery a switch, and an inductor, when turned on the electromagnetic field builds up as current flows until a limit is reached. The current flow drops and the current flow will be determined by the resistance of the circuit. The limit is the measured inductance of the circuit. The inductor uses more current as the magnetic field is building. The tendency of the inductor is to keep current flowing. If the inductive circuit is broken (switch opens) the voltage in the circuit will build as the energy stored in the magnetic field is converted back to voltage. An inductive load will present the switch very high voltages as the switch is opened and the inductor attempts to keep current flowing. The arc in the switch will be much larger, and capable of jumping a larger air gap, because of this increased voltage. This will tend to burn out switches as the switch is turned off.

A Capacitor operates to block direct current after charging, storing energy in an electrostatic field. If we have a circuit with a battery a switch and a capacitor, the capacitor will charge and no additional current will flow. When the capacitor is fully charged no additional current will flow from the battery.

Reactance is a combination of inductance and capacitance.

With an Alternating Current (AC) the capacitor will pass current and an inductor will block current flow. A resister will behave the same for AC and DC.

For our light circuit we have some incidental inductance and capacitance but it is close enough to a pure resistive load to ignore the reactance of the circuit. A DC motor running a sprayer is an inductive load with a substantial resistive component of the load. With the DC motor both the inductance and resistance must be considered.




Ed
 
   / Toolbox and Lights for my JD4100
  • Thread Starter
#70  
Ed,

I'm at work and I forgot my drool cup. /w3tcompact/icons/blush.gif/w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif/w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif

I have a general understanding of what you said in your post, but I'm having trouble relating it to my needs. That being said, let's see if I can put this together in words.

1. Run a wire from the battery to get my power.
2. Place a fuse between the battery and relay (fuzzy on sizing here for the relay).
3. Run the power wire to two switches - ending up having two circuits. One for forward auxillary lights. The other for rear floodlight.
4. Run wires from the switches to the lights.
5. Done.

Am I close?

Terry


<P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1>Edited by TerryinMD on 12/19/01 03:12 PM (server time).</FONT></P>
 

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