Toolbox and Lights for my JD4100

[TerryinMD]

John,

Works much better.

Easier to work with a separate page to compare the table agains the diagram.

The JD Part Manual you reference, is it the one that is contained on the CD? If it is, do you consider it a good purchase.

Terry

 

[TerryinMD]

DFB,

Depends - here's the rundown.

Fuse Identification:

· 10 Amp Fuse - Engine Glow Plugs and Starter

· 10 Amp Fuse - Accessories

· 15 Amp Fuse - Flasher, Warning Lamps

· 20 Amp Fuse - Headlight and Taillight Lamps

Hmmm... just noticed something. Accessories - I don't have any. Need to trace this circuit. May have the answer.

Terry

 

[Anonymous Poster]

<font color=blue>...is it the one that is contained on the CD...</font color=blue>

I don't know, but would assume so, I don't own any of their cd's... check with Hillbilly... he purchased the CD.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

I noticed in the parts manual for the "Rear Worklight kit", they have a "scotch splice"... normally only used for existing circuits... which at the ROPS would be the "tail-lamps"

On my JD, there's extra pigtails under the operator's seat {believe purple color coded} for the rear work lamp circuit. I also wired/mounted switches on the lamps individually to turn on/off independent of each other.

I posted a picture somewhere on TBN of the mounting and switch hookup...

 

[TerryinMD]

John,

Couldn't remember if it was you that had gotten the CD.

Yes, I have two unused connectors near the seat that I metered. Both give 12v when the lights are turned on. I would like to have the auxilliary (silly me stated extra /w3tcompact/icons/blush.gif) lights on their own circuit and work independently of the headlights and warning lights.

Terry

I'll look up your posts for mounting/switch hookup.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Terry,

You have to remember... the only time you'll use the rear lamps is when it's dark anyways.... /w3tcompact/icons/blush.gif {so putting it on with the headlamps makes sense...}

So, it really doesn't matter what circuit you tie into, as long as it will handle the load, and each 55 watt lamp draws about 4.5 amps... and installing individual switches are a piece of cake...

 

[jimgerken]

Re: ...independent Lights for my JD4100

How about plugging them into the plugs under the seat so they have power when the regular lights come on, but then open each light fixture case and add a switch so it is also independently switched. If J.D. provided these two plugs (I assume for their optional worklight kit), there should not be a current supply problem, but you'll know if the fuse blows. I can't imagine needing the two new worklights and not needing the headlights, as far as making them truely independent. I have the 4100 also , and this is my plan. I will mount them on the provided holes on the top of the ROPS, on the underside, if there is enough room so I don't hit my head on them. One facing forward, one backward.

 

[TerryinMD]

John,

Yes, this is true. However, the FEL makes the front lights almost useless.

Hmmm... maybe I need to rethink again. Arrrrghhhh! Making a mountain out of molehill! /w3tcompact/icons/crazy.gif

Terry

 

[Thomas]

Terry,
Years ago Ford install lights on the FEL arms in which gave good lighting...kinda like the big Cat loaders now a days...maybe this will help.

Thomas..NH /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

 

[MikePA]

I used the work light pigtail NH had already installed on my tractor to power my two rear worklights. NH only supplies one light, I installed 2 lights. It has power when the ignition is on and I installed a switch. I don't know about the others (perhaps I'm odd /w3tcompact/icons/shocked.gif) but when I initially thought about how I'd use a work light I was just thinking I'd use the light when hooking up an implement. But JM III makes a good point (doesn't he always /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif), e.g., you're plowing snow with a FEL and a rear blade. You're going to need both the rear lights and the FEL lights, plus the headlights. So it makes sense to have them all on at the same time. But that's alot of amps going through one switch, so I'd definitely recommend a relay. Four lights at 55 watts each = 18.3 amps. I'm glad I have 2 separate circuits.