Toolkit revisited: What do I actually NEED?

blurrybill · May 12, 2002

If we agree on the rebate, I should get the JD 4310, 430 loader, 4in1 and HD bucket with toothbar, 60"mmm, HD boxblade, JD 60" tiller, iMatch, regular R4s, ehydro, speedmatch, autocruise update. Will pick it up Memorial Day weekend. We'll start house construction in late September. I only have a temporary structure for the tractor and tiller until next spring.

The question: Without any mechanic's tools to speak of, what do I really need to maintain the tractor? Tools will be hauled back and forth from the house in town for a year.

How many wrenches? What sizes? What type of torque wrench? Can I get by without the click-type? What type grease gun?

Now that the time is at hand, I need your help again TBN. Thanks for replies in advance.

Bill

RoyJackson · May 13, 2002

"Without any mechanic's tools to speak of, what do I really need to maintain the tractor? Tools will be hauled back and forth from the house in town for a year.
How many wrenches? What sizes? What type of torque wrench? Can I get by without the click-type? What type grease gun? "

Any $10 grease gun will do the job.
As far as wrenches, I wouldn't buy any until the need arises.
When you do buy them, I'm suggesting ½" drive sockets, a couple different sized adjustables (6" and 12") and a decent quality (Craftsman) torque wrench...again ½" drive...up to 100-120 ft lbs. A Micrometer Setting ("click" type) torque wrench will be fine. By the way, always return the setting to 0 (zero) after you finish using a "click" type torque wrench.
You might want a few combination wrenches (open end on one end, box wrench on the other end).
You'll want a pair of Diagonal Cutting Pliers (commonly refered to as "dykes") and needle nose pliers. These will be for removing and installing cotter pins.

Definitely a strap wrench for removing oil and hydraulic filters.

I think you'll find you won't need a heck of a lot of tools, initially. As you go along, you can get the ones you need.
I've had the 670 for about 8 months now. I've used the strap wrench, 6" and 12" adjustables, one combination wrench and socket (replaced the frayed seat belts...tractor was used when I bought it). I reckon the most commonly used tool has been the grease gun.

EdKing · May 13, 2002

<font color=blue>Any $10 grease gun will do the job.</font color=blue>

Make sure you get a flexible hose, rather than the solid metal tube, on the grease gun. It will make it much easier to grease the harder to reach fittings. Other than that, I'd say Roy has pretty much covered it.

dourobob · May 13, 2002

<font color=blue>Any $10 grease gun will do the job</font color=blue>

I agree with the flexible hose comment and would add the one handed pistol grip grease gun is often preferable to the two handed pump style 'cause sometimes you may need to hold the end in place with one hand while pumping with the other.
Bob

RobS · May 13, 2002

If you really don't have many tools now, I'd suggest going to Sears and picking up one of their prepackaged tool sets. Compare them and get the one that best fits what you'll be doing without too much overkill. They are priced decently and a lot cheaper than buying all the tools individually plus you'll get a tool box to keep it all in. Then as specific needs arise, you can add the more unique tools. If you're like me, you'll evenually need a NASCAR sized tool box and an extra garage stall just to keep it all in order /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

One more thing, check to see if your tractor is Metric or SAE and get your tools to match. You'll likely need some of each over time /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

Soundguy · May 14, 2002

A little bit of humor here.. but at some point in you and your tractors life, you will need the following items"

Crow bar, ( and a long pipe for leverage )
smoke wrench ( you know.. a torch )
a big hammer
and a grease gun

So far I've only had to use the torch once... but everyting else is used every time I switch an impliment, etc.

Soundguy

looch · May 14, 2002

I don't see how you can (or why you would want to try to) remove lawn-mower blades without a compressor and an impact gun.

Three "essentials" that I keep in the "pencil case" under the seat: Pliers (for cotter pins), a stout screwdriver, and an old machinists wrench that I found at a garage sale - fits the locking nuts on the top link and the lift arm.

One more that I had to buy specifically for the tractor - a 3/4" drive breaker bar, a 3" extension, and a 1-5/16" socket to remove the Bush Hog blades.

Rockyroad · May 14, 2002

Blurrybill-

This is how it starts. It is an illness that is mental in origin and is generally not treatable, although it can be arrested.

Take my case: I bought the JD in 1986. I parked it under a canvas the first winter, but I couldn't stand having my "peers" see it parked in back of my house with snow on it. It needed a proper barn to keep it in. About $15,000 later I had one.

Then came the 80 gallon air compressor to run the impact wrenches and the air powered grease gun, as well as the half ton air powered winch. Then came the MIG welder. Followed by the AD/DC stick welder. Coming soon is a set of torches and a chop saw. This is in addition to the 12" tabke saw, the radial arm saw, wrenches, sockets, and every odd doo dad which man can conceive.

Now the problem is that I have so much stuff in my 50' x 20 barn, that the York rake and the Brush Hog have to stay outside under a canvas. I can't stand having my "peers" see that stuff parked outside in the snow, so I am in the process of building an addition on the barn so I can fill that up with toys also.

But hey, my Troybilt, aerator, and Kuhn rototiller, Buffalo rivet forge, cement mixer, and logsplitter are safe inside and will be kept warm all winter provided I get my chimney built this summer. (I need the heat so I can work on my CadPlan backhoe kit this winter.)

The only know cure for this illness is to leave TBN, stay out of Tractor Stores, and asked to be dropped from the Northern Hydraulics mailing list. It can be done one day at a time.Take up flower arranging and Yoga, and spend a lot of quality time with your wife discussing "relationships" and "feelings." Otherwise it is hopeless.

Egon · May 14, 2002

Bill:
Is it time to spend your money again?

Flex hoze grease gun, pliers, side cutters, cheap metric and english combination wrench set, filter wrench, funnel and a cheap 3/8" socket set with both metric and english sizes. An assortment of cotter pins or nails, a roll of mechanics wire and some duct tape. Also a pry bar/lining tool and a piece of 4 ft. x 1 in. pipe.
And last but not least a ball peen hammer and spare clinch pins.
Buy a small plastic tool box and start at the top of the list and when the box is full stop buying.
And a small come along for those times when the tire friction factor is insufficient to provide movement.

If you wish a much more detailed list could be compiled.

Or just buy two pipe wrenches, a 24 and a 16 but make them aluminum. That way the wrench breaks before tractor parts when you put a snipe on them.

Egon

Soundguy · May 14, 2002

I almost forgot the pipe wrench.
Might add a length of chain as well.

I remember once, when i couldnt unload my tractor, because one of the top mounts on a 6' disk I had attatched to it, broke, and i couldn't lift high enough for clearance to gat the tractor off the trailer.... pipe wrench, pipe, and chain came in very handy.

Soundguy

""Or just buy two pipe wrenches, a 24 and a 16 but make them aluminum. That way the wrench breaks before tractor parts when you put a snipe on them.""